Bambikiller240

You can search junk yards for a used tank that is in better shape than yours, but you'll likely have to spend serious bucks getting it put into decent shape..............or You might want to consider MOYER"S or GAS TANK RENU for a PERMANENT repair. Your tank CAN be shipped to places such as the ones I or Victory Laury mentioned. Good Luck. PS "GAS TAN RENU" website shows a dealer in Queensbury, NY in addition to ones in Albany and Buffalo

\ Oh. So I've been looking at LAST YEARS photos! NEVERMIND! Time to load the 2003 Pictures! Sheesh! :stupid:

Well, that is strange, because there are pictures on the page you provided the link to which show Mr. K signing stuff! :stupid: :stupid:

Just looked at the photos posted by Guycali. Some nice cars there, but too many Toads in attendance(350Z's) and not enough 240Z's. I wonder why the site for the Z's By The Bay show never mentioned that Mr. K was going to be there again this year?

Different kits come with varying amounts of new parts. I bought "major" kits that had everything including new pistons, bleed screws, seals, springs, copper washers etc; and other "minor" kits have only come with seals, and copper washers. Like others have said, I don't bother rebuilding anymore. I just buy a rebuilt with a warranty or a new one with a warranty. Brakes are too important to take chances on. just my $.02

The link is working for me this evening. Seems to be Hi-Res so loading is taking some time, but I'll be seeing them before too long. Thanks for the photo's!

millimeters

If the rust is only on the outer edge of the caliper piston (not sure what you mean by "puck") it is normal and will not be a problem. ------------------------ Only a few dealers carry ANY parts for 240/260/280Z's. Courtesy Nissan in Richardson, TX being the largest and best known. Not sure if they have rebuilt calipers available. Discount IS available for Z Club members! http://www.courtesy-nissan.com/ MSA can be slow in getting out catalogs. Post office is ALWAYS slow in delivering them. I just ordered a complete clutch set from MSA on Thurs, it arrived on Sat. w/o special shipping charges. Discount IS available for Z Club members! http://www.zcarparts.com/ Victoria British also sells Z parts, but their customer service is not very good and shipping has been slower than MSA in my experiences with them. Their catalog took a month to get to me. No discount available. http://www.victoriabritish.com/

The solution to most problems (in cars, and life in general) can be found in the tiny details. On to your next project.

Well, keep in mind that as the brake pads wear, the seal is going to move to make up for the material that has worn off the brake pad. This may move the seal into the area that is rusted if I'm understanding your description of the location of the rust. If it does, that may cause a problem when/if it happens.

Can't tell if the mirror is original from the picture (too close of a view) but the twist knob is NOT original. As mentioned, it should have SUN on one side and STAR on the other side.

If memory serves me, the clamp and "bumper" on the steering rack was a NISSAN issued FIX for a problem that was encountered on the early versions of the steering rack. It is meant to limit FLEX of the rack which was causing a bind in the steering system. If you still have the parts, you might think about putting it back where it belongs. Safety first, and all that.

AIR, The hose from the inlet that runs down the length of the block and goes to the firewall and into the heater has a metal pipe "T" (actually looks like a "Y") fitting that branches to a pipe that goes around the back of the engine to connect to the rear of the intake manifold. The other hose coming OUT of the heater, comes through the firewall and goes into the rear of the cylinder head.

If it works good, you could probably sell a few on eBay for a decent profit.

SU's don't hold much oil. A few cc's at best. You won't "see" the oil, but it should show up on the dip sticks, there are lines on the stick to mark the level of oil that should be in there. Lack of oil will cause the piston in the SU's dome to rise too quickly causing harsh throttle response, and probably more that I don't know about.

The choke lever assembly mounts to the underside of the console (NOT THE BODY). It is common for the plastic mounting bosses on the console to snap off if too much pressure is applied, especially after 30 years of use and time which does weaken the plastic. There isn't a good way to repair this damage that I know of, and I don't believe that the consoles are available from the factory anymore. Even when they were available it was an almost $200 "fix" to replace the console. Look at the lever assembly carefully and you'll probably see the mounting bosses still attached to the assembly, when they should be attached to the console itself.

Those mounting "ears" or bosses (at least mine anyway) do have a slight angle to them. It would be nearly impossible for them to get bent without you doing some serious hammering on them. If the original calipers fit and the car rolled without the calipers scraping on the rotors.........something has changed. Did the car's brakes operate normally (even if worn) prior to you disassembling them? I would be amazed if you were able to have bent those ears without realizing that you were doing it. Are you sure that you have installed the "races" for the wheel bearings FULLY into place. If not, that might offset the hub from where it should be located on the spindle. I'm grasping at straws here, but I have to believe that if the brakes operated before you took them apart, the mounting bosses could not be bent unless you took a hammer to them. I have to suspect that something else is amiss.

If anyone attends the show in Fremont today, please tell us about it and post some photos if you have any. Though I live only 10 miles from the event, I'm stuck at work today.

Well, I'm not convinced it is not the caliper just yet. I cannot imagine why the parts person would not allow you to "borrow" back the cores if you let him hold the new calipers, or if he made you leave a cash core charge with him as a guarentee of their return to the store. I still think that I'd return the new calipers and get my money and cores back. Reinstalling the cores should tell you if you have done something wrong. I don't know your parts guy, but many of the ones that I encounter don't impress me with their knowledge of cars, especially older cars. I'd be considering acquiring my calipers from a different source if the cores go back onthe car properly.

See the following LINK for MotorSport Auto. One of the largest retailers of Z-Car parts in the USA.

My early 72 came from the factory without a Thermo switch in that location. It just has the same nipple fitting that is on the front end of the intake. Water constantly circulates through the manifold/carbs (or it would, if I hadn't blocked it off at both ends!) ***EDIT*** Err, I made a mistake, there is a Thermo Valve at the rear of the Intake Manifold on my car. I didn't recognize it as such. Sorry for any confusion I caused.

Well, mebbe you still are the ONLY one with a ZX that we allow here. I think blitzkraig just stuffed the T5 into his 71 Z when he rebuilt the engine. **EDIT** Oh, I see, ICICE9 has a Cruiser too. nevermind! (looks like another one snuck into the woodpile!)

That is certainly true. Tokiko Blues are performance struts, though not as sophisicated as the adjustable Illuminas. As I was posting I was thinking more on the lines of KYB's or Monromatic struts as less than "performance" (non-adjustable)parts.

That would be on the balance tube assy, not on the intake manifold itself. The hole at the rear of a 1972 E88 Intake would be for water to flow through passages in the intakes and the 3 screw SU's. Late 72's might have the thermostat valve, but early 72 Z's would just have a "nipple".

Good thing I checked this thread. Didn't recognize your new alias. :classic: