Bambikiller240

I have two of those toneau covers still in the factory boxes. The ones that I have are listed as for 280Z 2+2's. I don't have the part number shown on the box with me as I'm at work. The clips that go over a post are for the strut towers and snaps are mounted to the bottom of the hatch to connect to the stretch cord end of the cover. The mirror shown may have been a factory authorized option, but they were also available as aftermarket units. Periodically they will show up on eBay, though most are in rather poor condition and missing the plastic pads that protect the door paint from the mirror hardware. If someone is interested in ONE of the two sets that I have (listed as fitting 280Z 2+2).......I could be persuaded to part with one for a fair price. Just send a PM my way PS I have the installation instruction too and will try to copy and forward to Carl Beck if I can get an address for him. (no digital camera yet)

Good to hear that you didn't get squashed by it.

It is probable that the kit is designed for cars that have an internally regulated alternator, unlike the 240 and 260Z's which have an external voltage regulator. You may need to switch to an internally regulated Alt when using this kit. Check with Painles's customer support.

Save some for me. I just assembled my rebuilt engine and I can't get oil pressure! :stupid: New pump, etc everything else works, but no pressure (yet). guess I'mm pulling the pump on Wednesday.

Oh OK, but isn't it texasz that wants to swap the fuse boxes?

Which picture(s) are you referring to? Mark's pic or?

I "believe" that the only US spec 240z's that came with the splash pans are from 1973 forward. Neither my previous 1971, nor my currently owned 1972 Zcar came with the splash pan. Mine from the 73 Z was finished in black, though I don't remember if it was gloss or not.

Lots of extra work to pull all of the early wiring out of the dash, etc; compared to just replacing the fuse box with the correct one, but it certainly can be done.

Actually, it is the opposite. Earlier cars (70-71) had the long pigtail fuse boxes, while the later (72-73) had the short pigtail fuse boxes. I, too have not compared detail for detail between the two types of fuse boxes so I can't help you there. Sorry

I did add 5 qts of oil to the pan, The oil pump and spray bar are brand new OEM Nissan units. The oil pump drive spindle is installed and turning and thus the distributor (rotor) spins as it should. (verified visually) Oil filter is a brand new K&N. Engine (short block) was professionally rebuilt and the main oil galley plugs at front and rear of the block were removed and replaced by the machine shop. The engine is rotating via the starter motor at a relatively low RPM compared to even idle speed. Even in this circumstance I would expect to see oil squirting out of the oil spray bar AND see oil pressure on the guage, right? I didn't "prime" the new oil pump before installation, guess I now get to drop the front sway bar off the car and pull the oil pump in order to disassemble it and check it's pressure relief valve and to prime it. Carl CRAP. I HATE DOING THINGS TWICE! PS: Not arguing the point, Keith; but since the oil pick up screen should be immersed in the 5 qts of oil inside the pan.......I don't see how vaseline on the screen can create any more of a vacuum than what would already exist with the screen submerged in oil. Too late for me to do that anyway (without pulling the whole engine), since it is already installed in the car.

Just completed the installation if my rebuilt L24 into Bambikiller and I seem to have a slight problem. I attempted to prime the fuel and oil system by spinning the engine with the starter motor while the ignition is disconnected as I have always done, but I'm not getting any significant reading on the oil pressure guage. Also, when I pull the valve cover it doesn't seem that any oil is squirting onto the cam from the cam oiler tube. Everything else seems fine. Any advice from you experienced engine guys will be appreciated. Thank you!!

Depends on how busy Mike is. It is a manual process to view and approve pictures. Usually they will be approved within a day or two at the most.

Craig, you have a private message!

Blah!

Before the slurry damages the "corners" of the nuts it will damage the threads. The idea is to have a fine abrasive liquid and to only use it for the minimum length of time necessary to "clean" the items This process CAN damage the nuts, bolts, ets and is not something that I'd waste my time and energy on trying. Most nuts, and bolts, etc are just too cheap and easily available to mess with this process. "Of course, different strokes for different folks"

The idea is to use the sand and a liquid to make a thin "slurry" mix of abrasive material that will mechanically clean the metal parts. You can use a rock tumblers, or tumbler for cleaning brass ammo casings. Either way it takes time for the process to work it's magic.

Hi Al; Since the car was laid up for 15 years, I would replace the water pump if you haven't replaced it yet, AND I'd have the radiator cleaned (rodded out) and pressure tested. It will be money well spent in ensuring that your Z is a reliable, cool running car for a long time to come. Good Luck!

Hey Steve, Share some of your wine with her. When she's had enough to drift off for a nap, you can sneak out to the garage for a couple of hours. just a thought. Carl

It was sold a few months ago to a collector from France, but he has now elected to put the car on the market. You can contact member "Harry Frigg" (Michael) for further information on the car and the sale process.

They COULD be crap, if you had wanted to buy a Z with the stock steel wheels. Back in the day, you had ONE CHOICE if you wanted a Z. Buy the one they offered you, with all of the added crap they could cram onto it; or go buy an different model of car. Take it or Leave it was the game.

Thanks. I doubt it makes much difference between the two, ( nobody sweats the details like Carl) but I wanted to try to get everything as close as possible to the optimum.

Many of the dealers added CRAP like vinyl tops, mag wheels, body-side mouldings, etc as a way to pump extra money out of buyers who were desaperate to buy a Z in the market place where Z supply was not keeping up with the demand.

Since it's not a "REAL" Z it would not have been included!

Can anyone tell me the correct diameter of fuel hose to use from the fuel rail to the Round Top SU's on a 1972 240Z? Is it 5/16" (which seems a little too big) or 1/4" (which seems a bit small)? Thanks! Carl