Bambikiller240

"Bench bleeding" is not really bleeding, it is simply filling the cylinder bore with fluid. You mount the cylinder in a vice and add fluid and actuate the cylinder until fluid pumps out of the fitting for the hard line. It does not ensure that no air is trapped in the cylinder, as there is very little pressure build up to force out trapped air. It can help (can't hurt) but normally is of little benefit IMHO. Bleeding at the slave is normally sufficient 95% of the time. After "bench bleeding" you will still need to bleed the system at the slave cylinder. Good Luck

there is NO bleed screw on the clutch master cylinder!!

Interesting comment. Steve (Zvoiture) recently added a photo to the Z Car Beauties Gallery of a Rootbeer ZX with two scoops of Vanilla. :tapemouth

Motorsport Auto sells a fiberglass shroud for 240Z. Factory fan shrouds began to appear on 73 240Z's as a cure for the overheating that began to appear with the flat-top SU's and other changes dictated by stricter smog laws in the US. With alittle effort you can modify shrouds from 280Z's to be used on 240Z's. I just did this over the summer for my 72.

Sure looks nice to me, Mark. Congrats!

I don't know how many of you'all are on the 240z.org mail list, but this message came though today and I feel it is important enough to pass on. Message: 3 Date: Sun, 09 Nov 2003 11:27:04 -0800 From: Alex F To: 240Z Mailing List <list@240z.org> Subject: [240z.org] T/C Rod breaking/failure A local Z buddy (afshin) had a TC rod failure this weekend, and this brought into the light possibilities of TC rod failure due to use of the PU bushings. Carrman posted a good read on how to prevent this failure, which was snipped from the dime quarterly list: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=27871 I think I'll either switch to drill out the PU bushings to give more flex, or get stock bushings and the g-machine tc rod alum/delrin kit. -alex

You may want to consider deleting your phone number from the post. Unless you don't mind every telemarketer in the world having access to it.

Yes it does. You'd obviously need to undo the pan to cover bolts to remove the cover whether or not you pulled the pan or head or neither in order to get the cover outta there. I think Kinfish was luckier than 80% of folks would be, to get the pan gasket to release from the block without damage to the gasket or pan flange.

You only need to bleed the slave cylinder on a stock 240/260/280Z as there is no bleed screw on the clutch master cylinder.

On my Z's (all have/had stock SU's); the return line that wraps around the front and carb side of the engine is/was of a smaller diameter that the supply line.

There is only one way that I know of, and that is to pull the cylinder head. I'm sure that isn't what you wanted to hear, but I don't know of any other way.

I *think* we have a winner. I don't know glassware, but I do know.....................:tapemouth

Hmm, I was copying and pasting from the web page you provided so any errors there would have been carried over.

Trust me on this one Lachlan; the ignorance of the general public will NEVER surprise this old dog! Woof Woof. So, how did you like my Aussie slang in the X mas gift thread? I'm practicing for when Rick comes back from vacation!

Not wanting to kill a discussion, but I HOPE that no one would dare to disagree with THE MAN who (above all others) really knows what went into the creation of the S30 series. (ducking for cover now, bye)

Thanks James. I had tried a search on "NGK wires" but only found stuff from someone else and none offered for early Z's. Thanks for the update! Carl

For the Buckets (the Headlight assemblies) theere should just be holes for the screws to go through. On the Sugar Scoops (outer body panels) you are right ther studs are fixed. Maybe you can get S/S nuts, or just coat the studs heavily with anti-seize compound whn assembling. Anti-seize has worked well for me, but I'm in CA and the weather my car is exposed to maybe less severe than what your car will see.

Words from the Chief Designer's mouth should lay the controversy to rest! Good Stuff Alan (as always!) Thanks.

I can't advise on welding an extension, though I think it would be difficult with a screw that was so rusty as to shear. Need good solid metal to weld But there is a much better product to use instead of WD40. It's called Kroil (or Sili-Kroil) made by Kano Labs. It works much better (IMHO) than anything else on the market. www.kanolabs.com PS Use stainless steel bolts/screws when re-assembling, it'll save you from similar hassles later on.

Thanks for the Preview Alan! I can't wait for the new section to be established for the main body of your efforts to be posted. The shot looking down on the show is a great photo. Thank you again for sharing with us.

James: Do you have a link to the auction or the sellers eBay ID so we can search for the deal?