Bambikiller240

May also want to check Banzai Motorworks in Maryland. They have the blue for the engine and MAY also have the Air Cleaner paint.

I'm not sure, but check out www.tirerack.com They have specs on all tires they sell and lots of technical documents tha may answer your question. Good Luck

That is what the Anti-Backfire valve is meant to minimize/stop. I suspect you removed it with all of the other emissions equipment.

Good point Keith. I overlooked his statement about 1" to 2" off the ground. I was just going by the springs mentioned.

Nate, Check yur PM

I had a friend who had these wheels on a US Spec 1974 260Z (early model).

with Suspension Techniques lowering springs, you do not need "special" cartridges. Regular Gabriel, Tokico, KYB, etc will work fine.

Probably IS cheap. In more ways than one. I couldn't find a way into the black box to even look around on my XR system. No screws, tabs, latches or anything was visable.

Hey, at least you got your on the cheap. I paid almost $100 by the time you figure in shipping. I had thought long and hard about which system to get and chose Crane and spent the bucks. If you end up with any problems, just dump it and go Pertronix, or do Kyle's GM-HEI upgrade with JY parts.

Frank: I'll start by saying that the Allison (now Crane) XR700 has been sold for AGES, and more than a few people have it and I guess they don't have a problem with it. But you won't catch me going back to it. I bought one 3.5 years ago and it ran OK for almost two years though I had problems keeping the LED trigger device adjusted properly in relation to the shutter wheel. The screws on the mounting arm would not keep the LED and the receiver (there is only one LED, under the shutter is the receiver that "sees" the LED light and triggers the ignition via the "black box") securely in one place. After about 20 months or so I started experiencing a sudden shut down of the engine while at speed. Needless to say, this can be very disconcerting (and dangerous) when on the freeway or in traffic where you have no place to go when the engine suddenly dies. After the car would sit for anywhere from 10 to 30 minutes, the engine would restart and run normally for about 30 to 45 minutes, before suddenly shutting down again. I could not get any information on how to test the unit from Crane, though they offered to check it out if I sent it to them. Well, that wasn't an option for my dailey driver, so I spoke with many mechanics and emailed some knowledgable folks on the IZCC mail list. What I learned was that a component in the black box called the "power transistor" can develop a sensitivity to heat and when it gets hot, it ceases to function which shuts down the ignition, when it cools it will function again until it gets hot again. Seems this is a fairly well known and common problem with that XR-700 system. I ordered a Pertronix from Vic British, ripped out the XR-700 and installed the Pertronix (an easier install) in about an hour, timed the engine and never looked back. The car ran (IMHO) much better, the system stays aligned properly. I am much more satisfied with the Pertronix than I ever was with the Crane. That mounting arm for the LED/Receiver always seemed rinky dink to me anyway, and I hated drilling holes in the inner fender to mount the damned black box (though I'm stuck with the holes now). just my $.05 ( it's a long reply so it warrants more than $.02)

GREAT! A lead is a lead. If the A-Hole was stupid enough to try to cash one check, he's probably stupid enough to try again. If they don't ID him from this attempt, prehaps they will next time. Keep the Faith Victor. She's not gone for good just yet!!!!

Sorry, I can help. I tossed all of that stuff when the XR700 packed up and started leaving me stranded. Switched to Pertronix and haven't looked back. Cheaper, more reliable, completely contained inside the dist.

26thZ : You are correct. The blue on my Motor mount brackets was NOT a careful, quality paint job at all. Many runs. There was slight overspray on the timing cover as well.

The bumpers for the 73 are in fact different than the 70-72 model cars. The mounts are different and extend the bumpers forward, but the bumper still has to reach back to the same point (on the ends) as the 70-72 bumpers, so the bumper dimensions needed to be different to accomplish this. With the appropriate mounting brackets the 70-72 bumpers can be used. Differences include the carbs, "smog version" of the E88 cylinder head, as opposed to the E31 or early E88 cylinder head. Lighted Heater control panel for 73. Price of Tea in China? Less than in USA no doubt, but it comes with a dose of SARS included at no extra charge.

Sean: And your photo is.....................where??????????????:tapemouth

Shirley you don't need another 22 pages of "break"?????????????

$47K and the reserve is still not met! For a pick-up truck? I must be :stupid: ; or the rest of the pick-up purchasing public is. No way would I pay that kind of $$$ for ANY truck that I planned on using as a truck. I'd have a fit if it got a single scratch. Ever. For that kind of money I'd expect a high-class HOOKER (for a week!) and a case of 12 yr old Scotch to be part of the deal. It would take THAT kind of smile on my face to get my signature on the sales contract. Of course, if Santa was just going to drop one off at my house................:classic:

No, but Les Canaday at Classic Datsun Motorsports had rattle cans of the proper paint color made up. If you check with him, he probably still has them available or could get you the recipe if he no longer has them.

Michael; I *think* it was specified in the instructions that I got, but I don't have them here at home to confirm. I do know that I did scuff the POR15 on my floorpan when I did the 2nd coat, and again before the Chassis-Coat Black. I don't think I did it "on my own".

Victor: It's too early to give up hope yet. LA is a big place. Lots of places for your Z to be ditched and not found yet. Keep the faith. A ZX? :sick: Now that's a bit drastic, don't you think? "Keep hope alive."

Hi Ed: I think Enrique will agree that scuffing with 300 is good enough. At least I hope so, as I used 400 grit to scuff mine for a second coat. That picture reminds me of Rochester, NY. I spent a MONTH up there about 5 years ago. (actually it was 2 weeks, but it felt like a month) Snow makes for some beautiful scenes, but I'll take CA weather any day. Good idea to get your parts into a heated area so you can keep working though the winter. Careful of the POR fumes though.

I know you are asking about 70/71, but on my 72 (mfg in 11/71) I just removed the original motor mounts and the brackets that bolt to the block were the same blue as the engine. The rubber/steel isolators (mounts) were black. HTH, Carl

When you get a chance to snap a pic, please post it. I can't tell you how many "jack dented" floors I've seen, but it's is a lot.

Is that like "Band Geeks"? Recalling the movie "American Pie"........I hope there are no trumpets or flutes in your home! Eeeewwww!

Isn't a little (like a lot) too cold to be using POR in NY? The data sheets that came with my POR products specified ambient air temps above 75 degrees for the entire cure time.