Bambikiller240

Holly: Glad you took the comment (and the cartoon?) in the humorous nature it was intended. Hopefully you will consider posting your pic to our Member Mugshots Photo Gallery, and don't forget to post pics of your car to your own gallery here, if you haven't done so already.

The lock ring IS available and is priced quite cheaply, IMO. After 30 years of exposure to fuel, and moisture, I would recommend replacing the sender unit as well. It's not real cheap, but not real expensive either. It's never going to be easier to put everything right than when you have the tank out of the car. FWIW,

Sorry, I forgot to put this in my earlier post. If you need tires, here's how to have them delivered. Chino240Z's UPS Delivery

Ahhh, the romance continues.................. frank13 & sweetgrrl, I'm just teasing, don't take it wrong, OK? A couple of pictures from you two would clear it all up!

Kroil (or Sili-Kroil) gets my highest reccomendation also. The Sili-Kroil version has (obviously?) Silcone as an additional ingrediant and works minor miracles. The stink of PB Blaster gets to me also

If you have a pre-73 Z car you probably don't have a "timing tab" with a "0" mark. What you will see is a "pointer" attached to the timing cover of the engine, and several notches in the couter edge of the crankshaft damper/pulley. If that is what you have, looking down as you stand in front of the car, the biggest and deepest notch is TDC and should be the one all the way to the left. The space between each notch = 5 degrees of crankshaft timing, the the 5th notch (the one all the way to th right) = 20 degrees BEFORE TDC. If you ahve a hard time seeing the notches, take a piece of white chalk or white crayon and rub it over the notches to make them stand out. Set timing according to the specs in your manual. (you do have a manual, don't you?)

Funny, here you are likely to find the turkey inside the Police car. just kidding, Smokey.

Nothing "wrong" with it. Just that the other products mentioned are far superior as penetrating oils. IMHO.

Put some ANTI-SEIZE on the new bolts before you install them.

Pentrating Oil, lots of Penetrating Oil. Sili-Kroil, P-B Blaster, Tri-Flow, anything except WD-40 Put two nuts on the remaining portion of the bolt. Lock them together and use your wrench on the bottom (lower) nut to CAREFULLY back it out. Don't thread the nuts down the bolt too far, in case you shear the bolt again you'll have some threads left to try another method

I had always heard that saying about it being best to not try to avoid a deer standing in the road when i was going up. When I asked the logical "WHY?" question, I was told that you're less likely to die from hitting the deer than from swerving into a tree or mountain-side whilst trying to avoid the deer. Someone else told me that (at night) the deer will follow your headlights when you suddenly swerve and you'll hit them anyway. I don't know if any of this is true, but that is what "old timers" told me when I was a kid. ZVoiture, Do those "deer horns/sirens" really work? Thought you might know since you grew up in major deer country.

I fully support the idea of making one's car really YOUR CAR. Mod it however one wants to do, I say. I haven't followed what modds Mr. 26thZ plans for the car except that he's got the Wats. I wonder how the value of the car (since it's such a low vin) would be affected by any modds. I don't know, I just wonder. "Traditional mods" do take away from "originality" Can't have both, right. Need two Z's, one for originality, one for self expression.

I suspect the Carl Becks opinion is STRONGLY influenced by the extremely low serial number of the car.

Doing those things will probably fix the issue with your car. If not, it will let you know that there is something that needs adjustment or replacemnt. Like the carbs themselves, or perhaps a weak fuel pump, or whatever. Do Simple and Cheap things first, then more to more complicated things. Step, by step.

Why? Do you have one in your freezer?

Step one would be the regular air filter and the fuel filter on the right side inner fender. The fuel filters in the banjo fittings of the carbs are "usually" less of a problem. First things I'd do would be: Replace the mentioned filters, change oil and oil filter, and do a complete tune-up including new spark plugs, points (if the car still has them) Dist cap and Rotor, and set the ignition timing to specs. Also. set the choke (pull the choke lever) and then reach under the carb"s" (with the air filter removed) and spray some WD40 or other good lubricant on the choke nozzles (which should be extended from the bottom of the carbs when it has been activated by the choke lever).

Carb? Your car should have TWO carbS. In order to give you advice we need to know what you've got under the hood, and what you have or haven't done to the engine lately. Has someone replaced the SU's with a 4BBL carb? Has one of the SU's just fallen off the car? Have you changed the fuel and air filters yet. Replaced the Distributor CAPand Rotor? Done a tune-up lately? Help us to help you.

Carb? Your car should have TWO carbS. In order to give you advice we need to know what you've got under the hood, and what you have or haven't done to the engine lately. Has someone replaced the SU's with a 4BBL carb? Has one of the SU's just fallen off the car? Have you changed the fuel and air filters yet. Replaced the Distributor and Rotor? Done a tune-up lately? Help us to help you.

(clicking my heals rapidly) "There's no place like home, There's no place like home, There's no place like home, There's no place like............................." signed Dorothy

Chuck: I think it may have been in one of the "Wiring Harness" threads where there was talk about reproducing the wiring for various S30 Z cars.

Maybe Frank should order some tires like cHino240Z, and hope the same delivery girl shows up. The longer this thread goes, the more vivid is the vision I have of a long line of puppies waiting to hump the only leg in the house! Where's my garden hose?

Who the heck is Ed?????????????????????

Didn't mean to say that the seller is a bad guy, just that the wheels are not a "set" as most people would think of a "set". With different material of construction (Aluminum vs Magnesium, you will have significantly different unsprung weight on F and R of car, or worse yet R and L sides of car. I'm not sure how badly that will affect handling, but it will definitely make some difference. BTW, I see that there is a shipping calculater on the page that I missed last night, and the shipping cost seems reasonable to the west coast.

These are a mixed set of wheels, Aluminum and Magnesium. Also missing 2 center caps. Doesn't look like they've been very well cared for either. In his feedback a seller complains that he had to ship TO this seller to an overseas location. I seem to remember previous auctions from this guy listing a location of Puerto Rico. If so, the shipping could be a KILLER.

It makes you a QUACKERWACKER or a DUCKERPLUCKER (I had a seagull fly into the windshield of my truck about two months ago. Big crack in the glass now)