Bambikiller240

asbestos? Probably.

Have you priced having a local radiator shop do a re-core on your current radiator? They can put in a 3 or 4 row (as you desire), and may be cheaper than buying new. That is what I had done. I liked the idea of a local warranty on the work and was very satisfied with the quality of workmanship that I received at my local shop.

Craig could alway let her go Braless at the show (that always draws attention!) and have her wear it only on the road trip.

I previously owned a 71 (HLS30-23313) and it had the breather buttons in the seat covers. The cushion on the console could be one of the "Factory Authorized" dealer add-on accessories. Regarding the driver side (actually both sides) of the dash and possible overspray..... I think it may reflection as a few other pictures show that area and it appears quite black. It's only the closest view that show that effect Also looks like they painted the V. Reg cover and the Carb Linkage. :stupid: How can anyone call a car with a Dash Cap (especially a HALF CAP!) "Restored". Other than the things mentioned (by all of us), it does look like a pretty nice car. Now, let's see where the Reserve Price drops off.

There was not any consensus on the validity of the perceived problem, at least on the 240Z.org list discussion. John Coffey, who raced a Z car for quite a long time said that he had never seen, heard, nor experienced any problems in the Compression rods with PU bushings. I can't find my copy of the 240Z.org discussiion, but I do have a copy of the initial Hybrid Z discussion on this subject that I saved in a WORD document, which I cannot attach here. If anyone wants a copy of that initial Hybrid Z discussion, PM me with your email address and I can forward it to you later today/tonight.

Well, do you trust the previous owner, do you know anything about the services that have been done to the car before you bought it? How many miles are on the engine? If it hasn't been done (ever or recently) when the head is removed, it's a good idea to have the head reconditioned. This can involve regrinding the existing valves, or replacing them. Valve guides should be checked for wear and replaced if necessary. It is also a good time to have the timing chain, gears, tensioner replaced if they have not been replaced recently. Of course, all of this costs money, but when done all at once, it can really save money in the long run. If you don't service these areas now, and you end up with valve or timing issues a little later down the road, the head will have to come off again and your paying for the same labor a second time at that point. Just a few things to think about. Let us know what you do, and how it comes out.

Ben: NGK Wires are great wires. Oh, sure you could get better wires, but you'd pay an arm and a leg for them. Next time you're looking for wires though, check around on eBay, there was a guy selling sets of NGK wires for Z cars at approx $20 a set plus $6 shipping, a few months ago. Extrreme deal, I thought. I have thought of Dando's for checking out my carbs, but I have a big difficulty trusting any shops, after having been burned so many times over the years. Let me know a bit before you plan to do your gas tank work. You'd be wise to replace vent lines at the same time if they are in bad shape. We can check'em out, so you can order whatever you need. PS: Are those fuel rail heat wraps original, or did you replace them? If replaced, where did you get them?

Are you doning the work, or is your mechanic doing it? If you are doing it: how skilled are you in engine repairs? Are you familiar with Overhead Camshaft Engines? Do you have a Haynes, or Chiltons, or Factory service Manual?

Cha-Ching, Cha-Ching (sound of a cash register recording a sale)??? Just Guessing.

Ben: What brand of ignition wires did they put on the car? what's written on the wires? Size,Brand, etc Was the price that they charged you out of line for the work that they did? FWIW, I have heard mixed reviews of the work and practices at Dando's. I met a guy from our Mail list that lives in Fremont quite near you and he, without being prodded, piped up with a firm reccomendation to avoid them based on his experiences.

How about "quiet" aneurysms? I CAN spell, sometines!

See attachment. #1 Cylinder is the one closest to the radiator, #6 is the one closest to the battery.

There is no fuel pressure unless the engine is running. Just replace the filter, and tighten the hose clamps. Where the filter is located, the pump will "suck" fuel when the engine is running.

Beautiful!!! (except for the wheels!)

no mention of removing the oil pan plug?

Frank13: If you're going to MSA; have another member take a pic. They can email to you to post, or they could post it for you. Just a thought.

I agree. Nuff said

Clarification I know that. Neither did your statement include the word "some" in it. That is "all" my post was trying to point out. Even without the word "all", it appeared as a blanket statement Your statement was, "And, the guys that respect the car have driven it." That doesn't leave much room for anyone who has driven it to not respect it, does it? IMO, 350Z ( I have test driven one, last year) is not an Edsel, it's an OK modern car. But, it isn't much different from several others out there on the market. It does not standout from the pack, it is not the revolution that the 240Z was. (Retired from the Thread)

BINGO!!!!! (Now THAT is a garden hose for ya, Frank)

Respectfully, I believe that you are wrong. A little more research will show you that. Have you tried www.zhome.com as a start on in depth research to back up that statement? Baby-Boomers WERE the market back in the day. Who else was in the car buying world "back in the day"? Little old ladies? Well, you would have seen them in Z's also. Why do you think 240Z's have remained relatively cheap, and plentiful all these years? Because so many people have been satisfied with them and have kept them all these years. Marketing, plain and simple marketing. Attaching your product to the coat-tails of one of the most successful products of the 20th century automotive world gives the appearance of credibility. Marketing Wonks will do ANYTHING to sell their product. It's their job. We must have a different defintion of "sports car" than you do This is true. you are being converted from the dark side. You say re-introduced......had you ever driven/owned one before? If so, why did you need re-introduction? What about it didn't you like, prior to the "re-introduction"? perhaps you mean "appreciation" when you say "respect"? Respect is earned over the long haul, usually on the race track or in sales success. Only time will tell, on both fronts. I believe that we have a different idea of what being a Z means. To many of us that will be in name only, as it does not do for us what the original Z did/does. I don't know how old you are, but those of us around "back in the day" know that the 240Z literally took the country (maybe even the world) by storm. Waiting lists were many months long, and if you wanted a Z, you either took the car the dealer offered you, regardless of color; or you didn't get a Z. There was always someone else there who would accept the car being offered. The faults of the 350Z are there for us to see (from our perspective) and Yes, that Mustang bashing is fun, but you get tired of it quickly. Only time will tell how long 350Z bashing will be fun.

So ALL the people who don't respect it haven't driven it? C'mon This subject has been discussed ad nausium on the 240.org mail list and the consensus of the people there, many of which have driven the car (on the road and/or on the track) is that it is there is nothing "Z" about it either. It is no conincidence that so many people more knowledgable people on the mail list indicate that after looking at the 350Z, that they'd buy a G35 Coupe instead

Back to your inquiry about manuals, a JH HAYNES manual is a valuable resouce in addition to the FSM. I prefer my Haynes manual to a chiltons, but the Chilton manual does have a few photo's and diagrams that are quite helpful and not found anywhere else. Also the Parts CD sold by the club contains the complete Nissan Parts microfiche for 1970-1978 Datsun 240/260/280Z. It has great exploded diagrams of just about every system and sub-system in the vehicle, and the part numbers necessary to make sure you get the right parts ordered.

Well, the HONDA S2000 comes pretty darn close to being a true sports car for me! Amen Brother Alfapup!

These must be somewhat different from the MSA S/S line that Ed and I have purchased from MSA. For one thing they must have a different fitting on one end to thread "into" the caliper, and secondly they must by longer than the standard S/S lines offered as P/N#24-5121. I think it would be ciool to eliminate that "S" tube.