Bambikiller240

"Weird!"

Where do you live? Compton? East Los? :devious: :tapemouth Sounds like you guys need an dog (or a different dog) and a rock salt / shot gun.

You can do the same thing with LHD cars, but you'd better be prepared to sacrifice your glovebox in doing so. The 240Z Gloveboxes are 30 year old cardboard that is very brittle. They generally get severely damaged in this project. They are also NO LONGER AVAILABLE from Nissan.

The Mrs. was probably thinking, "Boys will be Boys, even Older Boys!"

Rotating Propeller = Thrust = More Power!

Steve removed the master cylinder, so he must have had to bleed upon reinstallation. Right, Steve? Let us know the final confirmation that all is well!

My OEM clock says "JECO"

Hey ChrisA, we may have been out P E R V 'd by Victor. Either that or we're all great minds thinking alike.

Here is a LINK to a company that makes a product to repair rusted metal. Search their site for the HOW TO aspect, and then do a search on our site using POR or RUST as your search word(s) and you find real world advice from many of us who have done this work. If your floorpans are too far gone you can buy replacement pans to be welded in from Charlie Osbourne at http://www.datsunzparts.com/

KAMMY'S VALVE ADJUST SLIDE SHOW

Dash Caps. All the usual places Vic Brit, MSA, eBay sellers, etc

Thanks, Mark (I appreciate you saying it again) Maybe someone will listen and follow the link the 4th time it is suggested!!! Sometimes I wonder why I go through the effort to prepare an article if no one bothers to read the darn thing even when it is repeated pointed out to them. :tapemouth :tapemouth !!!!!:cross-eye :disappoin !!!!

Check the Vendors forum of this site. They are sponsors, and you can either view one of the threads for the answer, or send and Email or PM to them for the information. DASH RESTO FORUM

Sounds like your brake system has not been bled properly and/or the brake booster is not functioning correctly. IS there a vacuum leak at the booster? (can you hear a sucking sound?) "Synthetic stuff"?? You cannot mix types of brake/clutch fluids. Probably got air in the system by "cleaning out the fluid in the reservoir" also. Flush the system completely and refill with DOT3 brake fluid, and bleed the system properly.

Your deecription doesn't even come close to providing enough information to base a realistic guess of the value of the car. Like Ben said, How will the rust be repaired? Painted, etc? Emblems "shaved"? Any other custom bodywork? Old and tired engine, or Rebello 3.0L monster? If you can provide "DETAIL" pictures of all area's of the car, descriptions of the "unoriginal" pieces, (is the trans freshly rebuilt, or a junkyard piece?) The Devil is in the Details.

FASTEST COP CAR IN THE WORLD ! !

:cheeky: :cheeky:

What difference does it make where you get the info?? Info is info.:stupid:

PERV ! ! ! I don't know about the nationality, but if my Z were a woman.............. riding her would be even better than it is now.

Larry: Considering all the work you are doing on your car, I'd just replace it with a new one. For $30 you'd have a new one that will probably last for another 30 years. Even if you remove the rust, there will be none of the original plating left that protected the metal from the normal moisture (condensation) that occurs inside the tank. It will start rusting agian in short order. Just my $.02

I don't think you can get the label off the Master Vac and reinstall without it looking pretty bad. I'd do a very careful masking and paint (I've done it before, like Gary); if you are careful it doesn't have to look bad. Time + effort = success Another thought is to contact Banzai Motorwerks in Maryland. They sell many of the stickers and decals. Maybe they have this one.

READ!

"Lock-up" is a relative term in this discussion. The fan never "locks up" solid so that you cannot spin it by hand. If you want to "try" to free up some horsepower ( I doubt you'll notice any difference unless you really "flogg" the car around an autoX or racetrack), remove the fluid coupled fan and go to an electrically operated fan.

The fan will ALWAYS SPIN. It should do so. The viscous fliud inside it allows it to operate like Mark B indicated. It is engaged more when cooling is needed and less when cooling is already sufficient. It will NEVER be stopped unless the engine is not running. There is an article in the Tech Forum describing rebuilding and if I remember correctly it also has a bit of info on the operation.