Bambikiller240

Your picture appears to show a balance tube that does not have the linkage yoke installed. You will need a yoke that is compatible with 72 linkage. The 73 balance tube and yoke will not work, and I don't believe that it can be modified to work. ZTherapy can usually get you the parts that you need. Did you buy these carbs and balance tube on eBay?

Right.............. Right.............. so download while doing something else I thought so..............YMMV

Chloe at Midwest sold me a new cloth covered OEM one about 4 months ago for around $12, I think. Sorry, I tossed the old one, but it had a split in it anyway.

It was someone else who used similar wording when asking about changing the color of their car.

Sorry to hear about the leak. Is the housing cracked, or did you drill through the housing wall? When driving the car home, leave the radiator cap loose so there is no pressure in the system. That will minimize any coolant loss, but watch the guage carefully. The T-Housing that I bought from MSA turned out to be a Nissan OEM T-Housing. no problems with it. When you take the car to a shop, be prepared for them to break a bolt and as a result charge you more than the original estimate. It may not happen, but IMO there is a good chance it will. Those bolts are notorious for turning to mush over the years. Good Luck!

You will need to go to the Home page first and register before downloading. It's free Z CAR VIDEO

Go ahead, PIMP it up. You paid for it.

Correct! Funny how you get used to having that pedal. When ever I rent a car I find my foot searching for it.

What you are refering to is commonly known as a "dead pedal". It's a place to rest your left foot out of the way. All 240Z's & early 260Z's (and maybe 280Z's) have them. FWIW, the picture is of the passenger side footwell of a RHD Z car.

I've seen a very few 240Z's with a footrest similar to this. Very few. I don't know if they were a Nissan part that was available through Nismo, or dealers, or if they were JDM that was copied & sold by an aftermarket company like Aamco. The ones I have seen were always on the passenger side floorpan (like the one MikeW saw), so I doubt they would/could be for headlight dimmer, or horn

Chris (& Matt) That is a Stainless trim strip that was a dealer add-on, like the vinyl stripes, vinyl roofs, sunroofs, floor mats, A/C, console arm rests, mag wheels, door ding strips, etc. The Stainless strip on Bambikiller is attached via pop rivets.

Give them time.......................they're conquering the world one town at a time.

Sorry Rick, Guess that I missed that this was meant as humor. (wink,wink, nod, nod) I took it as another sad commentary on the US School System. What is the worst, is that these children are being taught by people of my age. :stupid: :stupid: Oh, and they want more of my tax money to do this "quality work".

If there is one thing about Bernie that annoys me to no end (hell, like there could be only one!) it is that he has such a hard-on for Silverstone. Somebody ought to smack that little billionaire!

Yeah, Splitfires's are just a gimmick designed to separate you from more of your money.

with a drill bit. You drill out the center of the rivet. Then you'll need to weld the holes in the sheet metal closed.

Yeah, something isn't right. I remember that I had just barely enough slack in the chain to get the tensioner bolts started with the shoe fully compressed. Of course my block and head had not been milled at all. With as much gap at the tensioner as you have, you should also check the wipe pattern of the cam on the rocker arms per the Rebuild book to ensure that the cam is not running off the rocker pad. Let us know what Phred has to say and the outcome of your project. This is the kind of stuff that can help other members down the road with similar issues.

I'm no "engine guru" by any means, but I have assembled a few L24 engines. Which manual are you refering to? I ask because I assembled my engines by following the How to Rebuild Book, and the Factory Service Manual and don't remember that statement. (not that it couldn't be there, I just don't remember it) Have you counted the # of links between the timing marks on the gears? If everything is as it should be in terms of assembly, I think your next step is to have the head measured to see how much has been milled off of it, and same with the engine. You may have to shim the cam towers to compensate for the head milling. I do not know what you would do about the block milling, but if too much eas milled from the block you may have clearance issues with the valves and piston heads. Someone sells real thick metal headgaskets ($$$ Pricey) that may be needed to compensate for block milling. *most shops around here will stamp the head with the amount of milling done so the owner and next machine shop will know what has been done previously. BTW, our member "Phred" is an "Engine Guru", you may want to talk with him.

Somewhere on the package or the tap itself it should tell you the size drill bit you will need to use to drill out the hole the bolt was previously stuck in. Then you use the tap to thread the now larger hole. Then you use the red handled tool to install the heli-coil (new threads) which should restore the hole to the proper original bolt size. ***To use the tap, you'll need a "Tap" handle (or wrench) not sure what it is properly called. Be careful to drill perfectly straight down and to use the tap straight up and down also. EDIT: Oh yeah, Like MikeW says below, you need to use lots of oil while cutting threads, and you back out the tap every 2 or 3 turns to clear the metal flakes out of the tap and hole.

240Z's came with STEEL wheels and hubcaps from the factory. We will need pictures of what wheels you have in order to tell you anything.

T5 is the Borg-Warner transmission.

Why not just get the engine started, THEN worry about those air injection tubes. Until you get the engine started you don't know if there is a problem unless you can see obvious holes in one or more of the tubes.

Drill upward all the way through the top of the frame rail and use longer bolts, flat, (and lock) washers and a nut on each. People do this all the time when using larger diameter swaybars to get a stronger mount. Just be careful that you don't drill into anything else that may be mounted to the top of the frame rail.

I have no idea why the disclaimer is there, but I had them on a 240Z for 5 years before I sold it. They were great. Quickened the steering quite a bit.

OK, I do see that these don't have the "Square mouth" that would be expected on "Flat Tops", but those float bowls don't look much like the ones on my Round Top SU's (though detail is poor in the pic). Would Flat-Top Suction chambers even fit on a earlier carb? It's been so long ago that I tossed the only Flat Tops I ever owned, but I thought that they were of much larger diameter than those on Round Tops. I need to look in my 73 FSM for a better pic or diagram of the carbs. Won't be until Weds that I can get to my shop.