Bambikiller240

First it was Japanese twins, now it's leather...............K I N K Y ! ! !

Do you have the Cowel? Where the winshield wipers stick out in front of the windsheild?

As abas suggested, some aftermarket parts are not made very well. "Made in China" or elsewhere and of poor materials and construction methods. I want my engine to stay where it belongs and not (potentially) leap forward and rape my radiator or do other damage to the drivetrain. The OEM mounts were not that expensive IMO.

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In the USA, aftermarket mounts are available. I would stick with OEM if your budget can handle it though.

Welcome. It would be easy to ruin the new tie rod boots if you had to remove them. SOme people have been successful in removing them without damage. I'm not one of them. Somehow I always screw at least one of them up. Have you checked the balance on the tires/wheels? The cause could be anything from Wheels/Tires, to Inner Tie Rod ends, to Outer Tie Rod ends, to Ball Joints, to Suspension bushings, to Steering Rack, to Steering Coupler. (Or a combination of two or more) Remember your car is close to 30 years old, Do you know how well has it been maintained (with any certainty)? I would suggest rebuilding the entire front end at one time. Do the job in one shot and you won't be back under that part of the car for a long time. Tie Rod Ends, Ball Joints, Lower Suspension Arm & Sway bar bushings. Check the brakes (while you are in there) Clean and regrease the Wheel bearings too. This is not that difficult or expensive of a job.

Mine doesn't have anything between the guards and the bumper.

Your POR materials should have come with lots of information on application. If you don't have it, you can view and print the info from their website, or the site of your local distributor. http://www.por15.com/ http://www.thefinishedlook.com/products.htm

Motorsport Auto lists one fender for all S30's 70-78. They DO NOT mention anything about 2+2 or coupe, so it looks like they are all the same.

Whoa, I didn't mean anything like that at all. Sorry if it sounded that way, it wasn't intended.

same auction that GaryZ240 posted about, right?

My recollection from swapping everything (as much as possible) from a 3/73 240Z into a 71 chassis is that I could not use the filler hose from the 73 in the 71 chassis for some reason. It was a long time ago and I do not remember the specific reason I could not use it. In checking the Nissan Parts Microfiche I note the following information which people may want to consider before looking for replacement filler hoses on eBay or salvage yards. There are 3 Fuel Filler hoses listed in the Microfiche for 240Z / 260Z. 17208-E4100 is the Original Part Number and supercedes to... 17208-E8700 which is used through 9/72 production 17208-N3050 is listed for 10/72 production through 8/74 (note this does NOT show as superceding the earlier filler hoses.) Has anyone actually used a 17208-N3050 in a 9/72 or earlier production date 240Z? MSA lists just the one PN mentioned by Chris for 70-74 (I wonder if it is a replacement (generic) part or one of the OEM PN's??

I think that you need to use the T.O. bearing collar to match whichever Clutch/Pressure Plate (240 OR 280) you plan to install. You might want to do a search using "Throw Out Bearing Collar" or "Release Bearing Collar" to confirm and get more information

Oddly, my VIN plate doesn't even mention GVWR

Lance, What is your eBay ID? What kind of stuff do you sell?

Great idea Mike. Do you by chance have the dimensions of the bracket? Like height it needs to stand off of the tunnel for the lever mechanism to fit under, etc? Don't go pulling you console if you don't have the info handy, I'm just curious for future reference.

Depends on how far one is going to go in swapping all systems to a different chassis. I rebuilt the entire suspension, brakes, fuel system, engine, half shafts / driveshaft, heater system, repaired some minor rust, every nut and bolt was cleaned or replaced, and every part was cleaned, and painted; or replaced if necessary. I sent the body out to be painted by a detail oriented body shop. I worked on the car at least one day per weekend, and 1 to 3 hours most weekday evenings. I was on a budget and ordered parts as I went along, sometimes had to wait a bit for certain parts. My project took over 9 months to complete.......and it was a great experience. I'd love to have the time and space to do it again

I was just play'in around Stephen. You know the drill on your neat little L320 pickup truck, and on other older vehicles made before the mid 70's. You just get used to checking all that stuff yourself on a routine basis because warning lights weren't available when the vehicle was produced. I do agree that they are handy systems, but an old fart like me still wants to see it for myself.

To a 240Z guy they are kinda funky. (New fangled electrical whatchamacallits) I have always used my eyes (and maintainance procedures) to tell me when to add fluids. When I was learning about cars, the mechanics at the dealership I was employed at told me, "By the time an idiot light goes on it is often too late of a warning".

I did this swapping everything from a 73 into a 71 shell quite a few years ago. Like 26th-Z says there is no magic involved but it is no small job. Careful planning and attention to detail during both the disassembly AND assembly are key to making it successful and enjoyable. As for time, I couldn't give an estimate. It all depends on how skilled you are, what repairs/refreshing of components you do as the process unfolds.

Motorsport Auto lists them in their catalog. Have you inquired at a Nissan Dealer? Those would be the only two places that I know that may still have them (new).

Oh, nevermind....................

I've heard of them somewhere....... Dasboard Resto Forum

Olympic Moments

Seems like I remember people with 280Z's posting this symptom in the past. Don't 280Z's have those funky Master cylinder caps with the sensors to cause the warning light to come on when the fluid level in the master is low? I think that some people discovered that the caps or wiring had gone south and caused this problem.