ChrisA

Sounds like Carl hit it on the head. Re-balance wheels. Weight fell off my car once, shook like a washing machine on spin cycle! Chris

Send a PM to our member "SledZ", he's big into snowmobiles. Chris

My 72 with the L28 is notorious for showing good oil pressure(on the gauge) for about 30 minutes after startup then slowly decreasing. I'm sure its got something to do with a combination of the sending unit being not all that accurate (new Nissan part when L28 went in) and the oil changing its physical properties as it absorbs more and more heat. Could the constant voltage through the gauge cause some drop off in the reading over time? The windings in the gauge itself have to be degraded on a 32 year old car. FWIW Chris

Hey Eric, this a bad way to check things. With the engine idling, take the oil fill cap off and look in with a flash light, you should see oil squirting out lubing the rocker arm cam contact area. I have a secondary mechanical oil pressure gauge plumbed in at the electric pressure sender on my 73. It sounds to me like your sending unit is going bad. Much luck, Chris

Sorry to hear about your troubles, but how does it sound? I have a version of twice pipes on my 73 and its loud and resonates badly around 2700 RPM. It does get lots of compliments on the sound though. Ferrari-like. Chris

Very good info Carl, that problem had never crossed my mind. Chris

Hey Michael, when you push the throttle down, the engine increases speed but the car doesnt go faster. You are actually slipping the flywheel against the friction disc of the clutch pack. They are not mated and cant transfer the rotation of the engine to the transmission. The tach needle will climb in a non proportionate amount compared to the speedo. Anyone else have anything else? Chris

Thank you all very much, I now have another project on the to-do list!! The tips are great!! Chris

I dont care what they're called, they're mine, paid for and kick arse. And when the 400 horse L28ET goes into the 72, they better look out. Chris

I don't know of any books for Z carbs, but www.ztherapy.com can get you parts and videos to show you how to fix them and tune them. Good Luck, Chris

Hey Vicky, I'll be thinking of you and all the Zed's down there. Chris Twister Boy

Besides being a Z nut, that's why I'm here. Chris

Used to be a piece of crap called Autocar. :tapemouth Chris

Carl said "stiffy"! Chris Arguing about politics is like wrestling a greased pig, sooner or later you realize the pig likes it!

Geez, I blew that one all to hell. Yes, phillips head screws hold the headlight bucket to the fender. Studs hold the front fender extension(sugar scoop) to the main fender. Guess I should have read the first post more carefully. Chris

Hey Mick, I'm not a fan of American V8 swaps but if I had the resources I'd love to do your 4.4 V8 Nissan swap. I'd only do it because I have a complete shell with no motor that needs a lot of work. I'd never buy a clean car from a chicken shed and hack it up. We all know what I'm talking about. :stupid: I like Nissan power in Nissan's. If it was good enough for the 280ZX IMSA Car with the President V8, it would be good enough for me. :devious: Chris

The quote at the bottom of Carl's post. Chris

Dose those little studs with penetrating oil. I broke several off and it wasnt fun fixing that mess. 26thZ is right on--8mm socket to get the nuts loose. A flashlight with a magnetic strap works well under the fender. Even in bright daylight its tough to see up under there. I obtained some small 8mm bolts and tack welded them in for the ones I broke. Dab of antiseize on them at re-assembly. Chris

Very good idea John. Been done to many a Z car. I have the parts to do it, just not the time. :ogre: Chris

Congratulations Sean, my nine month old wants an R34 GTR!! And congrats to you too Will, hope everything goes well. Chris

Hey John, do have any salvage cars near you? Cheaper test than buying a new regulator right away. If a used one clicks then we're back to square one. I may be all wrong on this, but I once read somewhere that the electronic voltage regulators sold at the auto parts stores arent worth a damn. Its best to get one like the originals that had the twin relays in them. I'll keep checking things for you. Chris

Put the V8 in the Scion, give the Z to me. Chris

Hey John, I'm not real familiar with 280Z wiring but I didnt think there was supposed to be a wire from the alternator to the battery. On a 240Z, there is the main wire to the amp gauge, and a two wire connection to the voltage regulator. You have a volt gauge instead of amps but yours should be the same. You said the wire goes from alt to batt, but then you asked if the yellow wire goes somewhere other than the regulator. Where exactly does this yellow wire start and stop right now? The regulator could be bad even though it looks new. I'm stumped as to why it clicks when you hook up the battery. I have a 280Z manual at home, I'll look at it tonight and see what I can find. Chris

Me too kind of, I ripped that FI system off and chucked it so fast I never really paid much attention. I made my assumption based on my 240SX. My own experience with this swap was pretty good. The exhaust system was the only trouble. The exit angle of the L28's exhaust manifold is slightly different than that on a L24 and I had purchased an exhaust system from VB for a 280Z. But when I tried to bolt the down pipe to the manifold it hit the lower edge of the firewall where it bends under and goes back towards the rear. I then decided to just take the car to an exhaust shop and let them do it. If I'd had a pipe bender I could have done the whole swap myself. :laugh: FWIW, Chris

The 280Z fuel pump will be too high pressure and I thought it was in the fuel tank on 280's. You can definitely use the L28's exhaust manifold. You'll just have to go the exhaust shop and have a new down pipe made to hook to your 240's exhaust. You only need to use the L24's intake system. Here's some bad pics of my aftermarket fuel pump and regulator. Chris