2-4-T-Z-MAN

OK all you Z pros. I adapted a quartz clock to fit the dash of my '72'. Fits good, looks orig. and keeps perfect time- - - - - -while the car is running and for a short period after the car is parked and turned off. There was no rewiring to plug it in to the harness. It worked for about 3 days when first installed, while sitting in my garage, then stopped. When to the Z-Fest, it ran and kept time. Went to drive it last night after sitting for a couple of weeks. It had stopped and now it is still running this morning. Is it possessed? Or is it just that the quartz needs more than what the old clock would have needed to continue to run?

The headlight assembly is removed from the underside of the fender. Easiest way is to jack up the front for clearence around the wheels.

When I rebuilt my 72 I used the Haynes manual. I too installed a L28 and the information was complete enough. That was about 8000 miles ago. The Haynes has information on 240,260, and 280. One book makes it easier.

PADDING THE REPAIR QUOTE IS FRAUD! INSURANCE COMPANIES WORK WITH SAME QUOTE BOOKS AS THE REPAIR SHOPS, SO THERE IS NO ROOM FOR THAT ANYWAY. THE INSURANCE COMPANY IS GOING TO PAY FOR NO MORE THAN THE DAMAGES SUBSTAINED IN THE ACCIDENT. AND THE QUESTION ABOUT SOME SPECIAL COLLECTIBLE CLAUSE, NO SUCH THING. YOU ARE PROVIDED 30 DAYS OF COVERAGE BY YOUR CURRENT COMPANY, IF YOU ALREADY HAD A CAR THAT WAS COVERED. HOWEVER THE COVERAGE TYPE IS BASED ON WHETHER THE NEW CAR WAS A REPLACEMENT CAR OR AN ADD ON. IF IT IS A REPLACEMENT OF A VEHICLE ALREADY COVERED THEN THE NEW CAR IS COVERED WITH THE SAME BENEFITS AS THE CAR IT IS REPLACING. IF THE NEW CAR WAS AN ADD ON VEHICLE THEN YOU WILL BE PROVIDED LIABILITY COVERAGE ONLY. NO COMP. AND NO COLL. IN EITHER CASE THEY WILL STILL ONLY PAY FOR THE DAMAGES. THEY AREN'T RESPONSIBLE FOR THE FADED PAINT NOT MATCHING. YOUR BEST BET IS TO WORK A DEAL WITH THE BODY SHOP AND SEE IF THEY WILL CUT YOU A BREAK BY LETTING YOU DO SOME OF THE WORK YOURSELF. USING THE MONEY FROM THE INS. CO. TO BUY PARTS . THEN MAYBE YOU CAN STRECH THE MONEY TO GET THE WHOLE CAR PAINTED. GOOD LOCK !!!!!!!!!

Mark, Black smoke usually means that you are running too rich a mixture. New carbs might take care of the problem if they are adjusted correctly. A tune-up might be needed. Why are you getting a new set rather than rebuilding the ones you have?

A man's idea of cleaning is to lift his legs as his wife vacuums.

Justazcarguy, I have a carter race pump, just because I got a good deal on it. The regulator is set at 3.5 lbs. If you are running a mild cam you might need more. Good luck.

My 240 is equiped very similar to yours. I have 40mm mikunis, rejetted for my L28 with K& N filters. An msd ignition, with 6-2-1 headers. When I built the engine I left it pretty stock, only boring it 20over to clean the cylinder walls. Prior to everything just mentioned other than the rebuild I was using a little solid state fuel pump that was fine until I installed K&N's on my SU's. At that point I bought a new fuel pump and pressure regulator. When I installed the Mikunis I had to adjust the flow because I was having the same problem you described.

I have the same setup on my 240. Lance is correct. The pump is not able to keep up with the demand.

Not to mention the paint is faded. Seats don't look original. More like 104000 or maybe 204000 miles.

I just removed and kept the unit form my 72. The condensor was bad, but the rest of the unit is all in top notch 32 year old condition. The reason I removed the entire unit including the heater was that I have a contv. and I installed a southern rods all in one unit that cools better. The folding top does not keep out much heat or keep in much cool air. I'm in florida. Barrie

Have you checked with DANNY'S DATSUNS? Don't know him ,but he does advertise several cars and parts. He's in Portland.

Seriously, another method of breaking them loose is to use a hand held impact tool. This is one where you hit the end of the of the tool with a hammer. It will break the bond with out putting as much stress on the lug. If you don't have one they are not expensive and you'll need it again. Good luck!

The situation is a problem. The terminology is something to have fun with !!!!! The prior suggestions are all good. Good luck----don't hurt yourself !!!!

Even though you drained the gas tank and put more gas in, you could still have some trash floating around. While the car is running and the pump is sending gas to the carbs it could be picking up residue and blocking the pick-up. Once the car dies, the vaccum created by the pump dies and the trash falls away. Restart it and the process can start over. Now the bad news! You might be able to flush the tank while it is in the car, but gas leaves a varnish like residue that new gas will work on and the problem could be ongoing. Drop the tank and take it to a radiator shop to be boiled out. Or if you want to try, still drop it and clean as well as you can. Purchase a coating kit to coat the insides. Since it has been sitting up so long this would be a good idea any way. I bet once you have done this you will have taken care of your problem. Good luck !!!

In a word YES. Even if your old system had been upgraded to 134a the new compressor will still work find. That is, if it's a good compressor. I just did a complete overhaul of my ac system and removed the dealer air and factory heater. I replaced it with a Souther Rods system. Hoses, bulkheads for the fire wall, air handler, and condenser. Before hooking erverything up I had the compressor checked and found that it was not working at full capacity. Since I was going to use 134a the compressor needed to be replaced. So just have the compressor checked out first. Good luck.

Will, I do have some pics. I'll post some sometime this week.

I cut the ends on a radius, leaving the front intact. Then folded the front around and welded the seams. Not all hood ornaments compliment the front of a car as well as that one.

One thing I have learned about cars and the people that love them is that we all see the beauty that our eyes wish to see. I've looked at 100's and 100's of cars, from muscle cars, lead sleds, rad customs, and every thing in between. I've not always understood why some things were done as they were. But if the body work and styling appeared to have been well thought out, that was something I could appreciate. So where a convertible Z Car may not be to everyones liking I have found my car to be the ultimate in Zness. It's has all the Z qualities as designed by Datsun and the drop top coolness I wanted. I've owned MG's , Healey's, and Triumph's briefly. Some people love those cars. I didn't! I've had my Z since 1975. Some people always see a water glass thats half empty. Thats too bad! When you walk around seeing things only one way you miss more than you'll ever know.

If you have the winter 1996 Z CAR MAGAZINE my car is in Reader's Z Rides. Upper left corner. Gold car on the lake shore. Did the car after seeing an article in an old Kit Car Mag. I had some frame rail connectors fabed and then chain welded them in. Tied the rear strut towers together. As well as the front, both on top and below near the radius rod bracket on the frame rail. The top frame is a modified TR-7 frame. I replaced the rocker panels to be sure all was well and while doing so I beefed them up by welding some flat sheet, with three beads rolled into them, between the outter rocker and the inner frame. The back of the car was done much the same way as noted in the Z CAR MAG article. Entered my first car show and won my first trophy in Sept. of 1993. The door gaps are still even and there are no cracks in the body. The point of all this misc. ramblings is that it can be done by the layman,as I am not a bodyman by trade. You can also strengthen the unibody even after cutting off the top with out having a full rollcage unless that's the look you're after. It's really fun to drive and always gets quizzical looks and smiles. Good luck with the project.

I used red krylon 4 years ago. No flakes, no peel. Just cleaned them with a grease remover, primed them with a selfetching primer and sprayed them. They still look good.