frank13

And one more. Enjoy! :devious:

OOO SSSHHIIIIITTTTTTTTTTT. That's funny! :devious:

datsunfreak. The ones on your ridr. Hey GunnerRob, My first Z had the same rims. Still have them. But the PO told my they where Western "Cyclones" Mags. Actual mag/alloy. Very light. I have never compared them on the scale, but the seem light much light than my Turbo Z rims. Any more info on those in datsunfreaks photo? :devious:

I agree with Carl. Sounds like the waterpump shaft walked. Waterpump failure. Bearing went south, shaft/fanblade wlaked far enough to hit the radiator. Is there any Back and forth play to the shaft? Side to side? either is not good. If indeed the water pump is bad you could try to swap it out if you have basic hand tools. 10mm socket/wrench. 12, 13, 14mm sockets. Big screwdriver. Not too hard. But then there is the ? of head warpage. If the water pump did go south you could pull it of, after draining what ever coolant remains in the engine and give it a compression test. If any cylinders are more than 20 percent lower than the rest or two have equally low readings you have a blown Head Gasket. Most of the time from my experience 5 & 6 go bye bye. Good luck. Also check your thermostat! :devious:

Damn good Victor! :devious:

with Ed. Good Chain or bumber jack can work all sorts of wonders. I fell asleep once between jobs looking for parts at the breakers and wrapped the front end of my 87 300ZX around a steel signal pole. Right in the muddle of the bumper. Fixed it with a comealong, chain and the bumper jack. Bought a used radiator, and reused the original bumper cove all for $200. :devious:

So how did this pinging problem end Zedguy??? Bye the bye. Was the cylinder head shaved? What was the reason for the rebuild anyway? Was it really pinging, because advancing the dizzy timming would only make pinging worse. Not Get Rid Of It! Sounds like a scracthed rocker arm. Or A bad bearing somwhere. :devious:

By advancing the ignition timming and adding Aviation fuel to your menu, you in no way will get a "Bigger Bang". Advancing the dizzy only helps bring on what you already got in a more timely manner. Which leads to the pinging. Which leads to using mid grade fuel instead of the cheapo 87. High octane fuel does not have any added HORSE POWER in it to release magical as it burns. It only allows you to make the horspower that you have built your monster motor to make WITH OUT MELTING, shatter, or otherwise damage pistons and cranks, head, valves, head gaskets. If Any body who thinks Aviation gas is going to make more power in thier Zed, Try some Nice JET Fuel! Real Nice stuff, burns real quick! See how long your pistons and bearing last in a wash of refined kerosene. Sound good? Hey if it works for Jet linners, it's gotta put a Z in the low 9's right??? NO! :devious:

Damn Chino 240Z you gots way to much free money burning holes in your & your wife's driving suits! What about the scented additives? Your race gas exhaust can smell as sweat as strawberrys or Vanilla!!! . Guess I shouldn't laugh I have non existent hatch seals, hum strawberrys???? :devious:

The extra cost of Aviation fuel is passed on to the consumer who buy's the plane ticket. Every time the oil companies raise the cost of a barrel of crude oil the cost of ALL fuels GOES UP! Using a higher than needed Octane fuel can also have adverse effects on computer controlled OBD II cars from the OEM's. Older non-computer controlled Z's like the 240Z will just run slower. As mentioned by MikeW high octane race fuel is used when the increase in Compression Ratio is leading to DETONATION (or pressure increased due to the build up of carbon deposits, which can also lead to PREIGNITION due to hot carbon deposits igniting the fuel/air charge before the spark ignition). The increase in the Octane rating is a measure of the rate at which the fuel will burn. Higher Octane fuel has a sort of higher flashpoint, for lack of a better example. The consistency of the fuel is better and will burn at a more uniform rate than lower octane fuels. But is Only needed in high performance engines. That have high compression ratios. That's why race fuels are always high rated octanes, such as the 76 race fuels, Trick, etc. Using High octane 92/93 or race gas 100+) in stock motors can lead to damage to internal parts (e.g. crank, rods, piston ring lands) on tight tolerence computer controlled modern engines. And fouled plugs on the cars that can not ignite the entire fuel/air charge. The slower burn will also decrease accelaration. You should only use the highest rated octane gas that your engine requires. If it pings with 87 and you want to keep that dizzy advanced those extra 3 degrees(legal 3 degrees +or- in Cali from OEM spec) move up to 89. If pinging still occures move up to 91,92, or 93 what ever they got in your neck of the woods. That is what high octane fuels are for. High Compression Ratio, high working pressure engines. My 2cents:devious: :devious:

SledZ what was the end result to your rear brake saga? What end the end did you do to correct this problem? Also did you have the 5/8ths master or the 15/16ths master? :devious:

Does the car run rough or at high Rpms at idle? Do you hear a loud hissing sound? Do the rpms change when you apply the brakes(while parked)? Disconnect the brake booster vacum line and plug. Does the car run normally? Do the rpms return to normal. Get a vacum pump/gauge ant apply vacum to the nipple or port of the vacum bosster. Does it hold vacum? If it does not it's leaking. :devious:

That's all Alan? Huh. No quires nada! . I would settle for one top shelf model for every year, with all the good stuff I would want on them. HLS30 through Z33. Except for the 240Z's I need at least four of these. One day maybe i'll win the Lotto! Yeah right! I don't know if being eight years younger is that much of an advantage. I think I saw my first Zed at around 9 or 10 years old. I bought HER when I was 20. She was my first Z. The first one I every set eyes on! This is the L24 I still have to this day. And it is a '73. Only been down on me once. And that was my fault!. This '73 has been in At least 5 Z's. With more than 20 engine changes between the 5 Z's. When I scratch one or others wise damaged one, I would just swap out my beloved '73's motor into another body with less scratches! This '73 motor sat outside for three years or so. Then I put in '71. She cranked over and started within 5 minutes. So IMO the '73 has been the best TO ME. :devious: Hey Alan the reason theres more questions than answers is due to the fact that you are now wise enough to realize that theres lots of stuff in this world other than ourselves. What's a brain cell? No worries mate, just crack a bottle wine and put on some Beatles! :devious:

Come now Alan, I said wiser. Not older. Brsides if you where 8, you had surely already seen your first Zed. I wasn't even born yet! :devious: . cheers.

A compression test can only be done on a cranking engine with all the pluga out and the throttle held open at the carbs. Disarm the ignition as to not fire. :devious:

Sudz never said he bleed the slave! and Carl is right . If he didn't change the clutch master, there is no need to bench bleed it. Being that it was not dry. Just bleed the system right and you'll have all the clutch you can fry. :devious:

Stand alone ignition/engine management set ups are the best. User programable and gives you many options for engine set ups. I like the Electromotive set up. Look them up on the web. I've seen some last gen TEC II's selling used with laptops all sensors and instructions for $900 to just over 1G. :devious:

asked for. Thank you Carl. Everything you said makes perfect sense to me. Yes I totally agree the Pertronix is a completely simple install. But since I came acroos this unit and have been wanting an electronic after market upgrade it ended up in my gruby little hands. The faulty power transitier sounds like cheap parts. This is also what happens to poorly sourced OEM components. Thanks Carl. :devious:

Zvoiture check out the cast aluminum baffled pans Dave at www.arizonazcar.com has. Sweet pans for the bucks. :devious:

Hey Carl, what kind of problems did this set up give you? Any ways you know of to test this unit? I would like to power the pick up and even see if the LEDs light up. Then check the resistence or voltage change when the pick up is interupted at the box. Thanxs for the heads up Carl. I would like a Pertronix, but I came across this unit in the breaker yard. So I brought it home. SER240Z, yes I believe it is an older unit. Now MSA sells the same model as a Crane Cams. So the wiring should be easy to figure out by looking at yours. I did PM you earlier. Thanxs guys. :devious:

are there to protect the money. The stupid piece of S$%t diddn't get any. At least this will put more pressure on the powers that be. Now he's messing with the Feds game. (Banks are insured by the Fed.) I still haven't come across any early Zed like yours Victor. Hopefully that means they ditched the car. And some stupid PG impound has it. I hope if this is the case they contact you soon. :devious:

at Ecology in Santa Fe Springs 13780 E Imperial HWY Santa Fe Springs CA 90670 562-921-9974 www.ecoparts.com Saturday the 17th. :devious: It also seems that all Ecology site will have the same sale. :devious:

Hey all, anybody have the Allison XR-700 or MSA Crane XR-700 installed on their Zed? And if so Can ant member post the wiring diagram. I just came across one. Optical twin LEDs in the dizzy with a three wire plug. This goes to the box along woth a black, purple, and red wires. Thanx. :devious:

So, any body know the Name, paint code, maker, or part number for the proper blue for the Zed? :devious: