panchovisa

Delta, I followed the link. I read a couple posts and skimmed the rest. I was disgusted. I can't believe how many children were affected by this abuse. Hopefully you will testify against the rat. Our sincere condolances in your time of shame.

Yes, the washers are the problem. The fitting is a tapered pipe thread and it needs to be tightened until it can't be turned any more. The washers are keeping the interference fit of the threads from sealing. Use teflon (tape or goop) pipe thread sealant on all pipe threads.

Mark, I believe that the rod and fork Pusher has now will work with a new slave cylinder. The rod is only "attached" to slave cylinder by the rubber boot. Just pull the boot off new slave, remove non-adjustable rod, slip in adjustable rod, and pop boot and rod back onto new slave cylinder.

Well, everyone gets what they deserve (eventualy). Pancho

"heavy duty brass, because brass cools down air a lot more than metal." We all know that brass is not metal, right? Well don't we?

If the clutch pedal feels firm (at least the same as before storage) then the slave cylinder bore may have corroded and is not allowing piston to move. Pull the boot off of slave and inspect for corrosion pits or "blossums"

Ed, I just threaded the back cover ind installed aeroquip fittings and hose to a catch can (puke can). All my breathers and overflow goes to the same catch can. You could easily just slip a hose and a band clamp over the plastic pipe (take the cap off first) and run the hose to any location (with, or without a container). A low cost container could even just be a beer can (drink the beer first!).

Good question Clive. If it got to hot for to long then head may have warped, cracked, or split head gasket and is now allowing coolant (or coolant/ oil mix) into cylinder or exhaust port.

I just did mine by myself last week. One jack onder engine (let it sag just a bit) and then slide tranny on cardboard under car, put tail end on 4x4, then front on 4x4 (repeat until high enough for bigger 2nd jack), Jack up tranny, gradually slide forward to get shaft thru clutch. Then start long top bolts a few turns. Then shove it onto dowel pins and start bottom bolts. Adjust angle of engine/tranny to be inline and tighten it on. Photo: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=10248&password=&sort=2&thecat=500

I'd like to run some vintage races, but if they get to anal about being perfectly correct specs than they can play with themselves.

No, they are vintage custom made pieces from the 70's when my car was raced.

Smiling? That must be coffee and not wine. Now for Ron, thats a smile, he's probably thinking "Great! At least my primer job won't win for worst paint!!!".

Fentin, I have exactly what your looking for (but they are not for sale) and soon I will be putting them on my car. I will post photos then. Basicly they are the curved end of factory T/C welded to tube with internal thread that matches a "hip joint" off an old Triumph (I believe). All can be duplicated by you.

Square ported headers to square, or round ported heads. Round ported headers only to round ported heads. Engine displacement makes no difference, only head design.

Got me thinking about the old days now. At one time patternmakers were probably the most respected of tradesmen. To create the tools of the industrial revolution using knifes, abrasives, glue, wax, putty, wood, plastic leather, etc was realy a mind blower! Then came computers and numericaly controlled milling machines. At first it was wonderful, slap a piece of metal on the machine and make something more precise in less time! But I left the trade when patternmakers became just programmers, and now they aren't even programmers because the CAD-CAM software does it for you. It's a trade that lost it's soul, it's no longer an art, only a video game.