SteveJ

Spark, gas, timing, compression. (We'll assume you don't have anything blocking air flow or exhaust flow.) All four have to be there. Double check your firing order. (Remember that some guides give it going CCW, and the older copies of the Haynes manual are wrong.) Make sure you have a spark. (I like inline spark checkers.) Make sure you have gas flowing into the carbs. We'll assume you don't have problems with compression for now.

No Did you try Google? From Emhart Technologies: Heli-Coil® inserts are precision formed screw thread coils of stainless steel wire having a diamond shaped cross section.

Just remember that if you choose to drill out the bolts, follow the previous poster's advice and also buy some left-handed drill bits (Yes, they DO exist.) Since they work going counter clockwise, sometimes they will grab the bolt and pull it out for you. It has worked for me.

I'm glad you got it running. The fusible link ratings/colors are in the FSM. I'll repeat what I said in an earlier post. If you don't already have a copy of the FSM, download it.

Hopefully you have the FSM. If not, you can download it from Xenon S30. Also if you don't know where the fusible links are, the attached picture should help. Don't forget to check the condition of your grounds, too.

You could try Danny's Datsuns. You'd be smart to find the correct name for the part. There is a copy of the parts fiche online at Xenon S30.

Don't forget to examine your fusebox, too. If you let corrosion build up there, it can melt down. I've had that happen to me.

Would a translation to English have included "there weren't any spark plugs on the engine"? If that is the case, you might have a much bigger problem than firing order. How long were the plugs out?

Oh come on, guys. Haven't you heard that Zombieland is about to hit the theaters. That MUST be the reason why all of these dead threads have been coming back to life lately.

It sounds like you could have more than one problem here. Missing data: 1. Age of the old battery 2. Age of the battery that was used as a sub 3. Did ANYTHING work with the old battery such as lights? This is without having the key turned on. You may have meant to say that, but it wasn't clear to me if you did. Now for the random guessing: Dead, dead, dead battery could be from age or a shorted cell in the battery or a bad fusible link. Do you use battery chargers or float chargers on your cars? Huge arc when trying to jump start it could be from having the other end of the jumper cables touching one another (even through another piece of metal or you had your cables crossed. A shorted cell might also cause a spark. Still dead with the new battery says that the new battery is old/shorted or you could have a bad fusible link. Hard starting - Search over on Z Car for Ford solenoid. Tony D, a member on this site, has posted how to use a 6V Ford solenoid to overcome hard starting.

Just send a PM to the moderators.

Actually if Nissan used the US style door hardware in all of its 78 model year production run, the doors would only be swappable with a significant effort. That was the reason for Enrique's post in the duplicate thread. Hopefully this thread will be deleted or merged into the other. My suggestion: Don't respond to this thread. Find the other one of the same subject by mattbibbey.

Actually, the parking lights and running lights are on a circuit together, but they are NOT on the same circuit as the headlights. If they were, then he wouldn't have headlights, either. Page BE-15 and BE-17 show a good simplification of how the fuse box handles power distribution and goes out to the parking lights and instrument lights. All of these lights are on the same circuit. Page BE-18 shows the dome light, and BE-20 shows the map light. The dome light and map light are on the same circuit. Both circuits are powered off the same bus in the fusebox. Before tearing apart all of the wiring bundles, it would be prudent to check the fusebox for corrosion. Check the condition of your fusible links, too. There are plenty of posts on this board warning about corrosion in the fusebox and at other points of the wiring harness. It happens with a 30+ year old car. Ohm's Law applies here. You have a 12 volt system and a 10 amp fuse. You would need to draw more than 120 watts of power to blow the fuse in a healthy electrical system. How many watts were the bulbs rated for? Also, did the old bulbs have corrosion at the base? Corrosion causes voltage drops (and sometimes short circuits), and less voltage at the bulb means less light. If you don't have the FSM, go to Xenon S30, find the reference section, and download the FSM. The breakouts in the BE section are probably easier to understand than the wiring diagram. If you're still having problems after that, send me a PM, and I'll give you a phone number to call me so I can talk you through things. Steve P.S.: Search the Electrical section for the word corrosion. It will produce about 3 pages of threads addressing this issue.

Thor, You do realize [your comment is to a] post that is over two years old, don't you?

Florida? Okay, so you don't count.

Yeah, which Milton? I work near the one in Georgia, and I make trips up to the one in Ontario for business.

Are those readings from the gauge in the dash or from a real voltmeter?

Replace it.

I found 3 in 1 oil in 20wt at Ace Hardware.

Motorsport Auto 30-7116 Latch, Male 70-78 [A] - limited availability or not available 30-7117 Latch, Female 70-78 $38.27 1lb.

Well, I tried again this evening. During the day, I was thinking about what could be the common point. So, I hooked up the battery charger and set it to 10 Amps. I turned the key, and everything worked. I can't remember when I bought the battery, but apparently, it is shorted internally. New battery - $70 and 15 minutes to install. Buttoning up all of the wiring and trim I took apart - 3 hours.

What's your timeframe? I'd have to talk to She Who Must Be Obeyed (to borrow from Tony D).

A couple of months ago, I drove my 73 240Z to the Mitty. A couple of days later, I got in it to drive again, but it acted dead. Nothing happened when I turned the key except for hearing the accessory relay click. I tried the headlights, and they were dead, too. I finally got around to tracking down the problem. I have 12 volts at the starter. I have 12 V at the alternator. I measured the White with Red stripe wire at the fusebox. It was 12 V. I had my nephew turn the key to accessory, and the voltage drops to 0. I unplugged the accessory relay, and I had voltage when I turned the key, but it dropped to 0 V when I turned the key to the ON position. I am strongly suspecting that the short is in the steering column. However, I'm at a loss to find the common point(s) where the short could be happening. By the way, I do not hear any arcing or smell any wires burning. For the record, I do have the wiring diagram for the 73 from the FSM. Any suggestions for common points to search for would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance. Steve

That sounds low to me, unless you Canadians are using Imperial volts. First, is your battery in good shape? Does the voltage drop a lot when you're cranking it? Next, look at a wiring diagram. I'm not a 280Z person, so I don't know for sure how the pump is wired, but I would expect it to get its voltage through a relay. If there is a relay, it could be suffering from soft contacts. If there isn't a relay, it could be suffering from 30+ years of corrosion.

(IPO - Idiot Previous Owner) I just finished changing the calipers (with loaded calipers), rotors and soft hoses on the front brakes on my 260Z. I just have to issue this rant. I purchased the 260Z in early 2008. My garage looks nice with a 73 & 74 parked next to each other. By sheer coincidence, they are the same color, too. Anyway, I noticed the 260 pulled to the right under braking. I figured it was dragging a caliper. I put it on my round-tuit list and waited for my wife to stop spending money long enough for me to buy brake parts. After a year and a half, I finally got clued in to the fact that she wasn't really going to slow down, so I decided to just go ahead and get the parts. The parts arrived today. My nephew is spending the week with us, and to my good fortune, my brother has been doing an excellent job raising the young man. He was an excellent third hand, tool retriever, etc., and the parts swap went off without a hitch, and the brakes feel nice and firm after a thorough bleeding. So we start cleaning up, and I happen to put the pads from the passenger side up against the driver side pads since earlier I noticed the shims looked different. The pads were different shapes, with the passenger side having more surface area to make contact with the rotor. I stacked the passenger side pads on top of one another and did the same for the driver side pads. The driver side pads were noticeably thicker. I guess I found the reason for the pulling. Now I have to replace the dry-rotted tires and u-joints. I'm surprised the IPO didn't kill himself with that car.