SteveJ

If it is a plastic glove box, you still take off the front door, but I wouldn't advise folding it or collapsing it.

It depends upon what year Z you are talking about. Edit your signature and add your car to it. That will result in better & more timely responses.

Quite well IMHO.

Yes & yes.

Years for the Kia are in this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?37308-Kia-Sportage-weatherstip-rocks!. I think the 4 door version will work. I bought the 2 door and had excess to trim. I found a Kia dealership online and ordered from them.

How are your fusible links? Take them out and do continuity tests on them. Look for corrosion around the connectors. Also inspect the wiring harness in the steering column where it connects to your ignition switch. Look for signs of heat damage/corrosion. Consider buying a small IR thermometer to check the temperature of components: ignition swith, ignition module, etc., to find sources of overheating components.

If you have a mechanical fuel pump, the diaphragm can leak, letting gas into the oil. Remove the pump and inspect it. Be sure to replace the gasket if the pump is in good shape.

Welcome, Emily. If you have the chance, stop by a Georgia Z Club meeting to meet some fellow enthusiasts. Also, upcoming local events that you might be interested in are the Caffeine & Octane shows in Alpharetta and The Mitty at Road Atlanta. Caffeine and Octane happens on the first Sunday of the month, early in the morning. The next one is on April 1. The next Georgia Z Club meeting is April 5. The Mitty is at the end of April this year. A few of us from the Georgia Z Club usually attend.

Happy to be of service.

That fits with what I have read in some posts about the sag at the door hinges. I like the elegance of the solution, too.

Yeah, I've had to diagnose the battery with the dead cell before. That's always fun...

You should use a multimeter to verify your voltage readings. Your engine turns over with the key in the ACC position? By the way, the accessory relay does not receive power in the START position. This is yet another excellent reason to undo your wiring hacks before trying to diagnose your problems. (FYI, the other excellent reason to undo your hacks is that depending upon how you hacked the wiring, your fuel pump will probably still be pumping fuel after an accident.) What repairs & electrical work? How are you measuring 15 VDC? Under what engine speeds? Here is what I suggest: Make a timeline of the issues with your car and the work you have done on it. Don't spare the details. Organize your thoughts. You'll get better suggestions. As I said before, the FIRST thing you should do is repair your hacks. You might have one problem, or you might have several. It's difficult to tell at this point. I have some suspicions, but I'll wait until you have the chance to provide a clear timeline.

Open source: 7zip Still free.

The roof and hatch would fit from a 77 280Z as long as it's not a 2+2.

Also, only sheetmetal from the cowl foward will swap from a 2+2 to a 240Z.

From his profile, it looks like Tim might have a 71. I know another member here is restoring a 71 that has holes in the rear deck for 6x9s cut by a PO.

The AT section in my 73 FSM is the same length as the one at the link you posted. It could have been downloaded from XenonS30 for free.

That would relate to your accessory relay coil being de-energized when you turn the key to the OFF position. Unless someone hacked into the wiring, no, the fuel pump isn't on the accessory relay. The fuel pump being off when the car is off is a good thing, too. Did you test the fusible links out of the car for continuity? How did you test the battery connections? How do you tell if a wire is on the verge of dying? Does it have a cough? Check this with a multimeter. Put the leads on the battery. If the voltage drops to zero when you put a load on it, the battery could be going bad. How old is it? If the electrical system is running at 8 volts, don't run the car. You'll damage your ECU. Get your battery tested. You just said your fusible links were good. No it isn't. Get a good multimeter. Check your battery voltage as I described above. If it fails, replace your battery. Your fuel pump relay is NOT controlled by the accessory relay.

The circuits for the left and right side are isolated in the switch. IIRC the 12VDC+ splits at the switch. Look in that area. Also, look at the wiring diagram carefully. I think there is a link to a colorized version of the wiring diagram in Blue's tech tips (link below). With the high beams, the first thing to do is to check continuity through the high/low beam switch. If it is not working properly, consider contacting Dave Irwin (aka Zs-Ondabrain) about cleaning/repair.

Jamie You've probably already cleaned the latch assembly. I cleaned mine a couple of years ago and sprayed them with white spray grease. They work almost like as they did from the factory.

You can also contact Moderator Mike about buying a CD copy of the microfiche that is searchable.

The FSM has wiring diagrams that include origin, destination and connector locations.

The old "pull the cable off of the battery" trick is overrated and not wise IMHO. Do you have a picture of the relay that was around the steering column? I don't recall a stock relay being there. Be sure to download a copy of the FSM. The BE section is invaluable for finding wiring issues. If you understand how to read it, you can locate most any electrical component easily. So many potential issues here...First thing is sounds like is that a PO jacked with the wiring. That can be difficult to diagnose & repair. Isolate all of the problems and investigate them individually. If I wasn't working too much, I would post more help.

Why are they "no good"? Pictures would help. Door panels do show up on eBay.

I think a bigger issue might be replacing the rubber parts in the fuel system to those that can tolerate a higher alcohol content. Isn't there a rubber diaphragm in the mechanical fuel pump?