SteveJ

Thanks for tipping me off to the E-Z coils.

You aren't providing enough detail to get any sort of diagnosis. Synchros come into play with shifting. Is the car having problems going into gear? Is the loss of power momentary? Is the loss of power continuous until the car cools down? What is the temperature gauge reading when the loss of power happens? Wild speculation: Loss of power when the car gets up to temperature is frequently the sign of a failing electrical/electronic component such as the ECU, ignition module or coil. However, most of the stories I've read on here usually have the car cutting off when that happens.

As definitive as you are going to get is the factory service manual. Check the wiring diagram.

No, I won't be coming to ZDayZ. I have to admit that I've been put off somewhat about hearing what accommodations are like at Fontana Village.

If you live in the Southeast and within driving distance of Atlanta, you should consider coming to the Mitty. I got to meet Ron Carter & Carl Beck when they came out to the 2010 event with Peter Brock as the Grand Marshall. It's just a great car event, especially if you love vintage car racing. Here's a facebook link to the pictures I took this year. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2108968260901.59317.1746422012&type=1&aft=2109036582609&l=298948f7d0

You have to be a member of Facebook to see, but here's a link to pictures I took of a Show & Shine I was at today. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2109126224850.59320.1746422012&type=1&l=baeb8dee00

You can buy the club CD. The drawings are a little clearer. Contact Mike for details. I found the actual paper manual for 240Z & 260Z parts on eBay & bought it.

You can get the reverse switch pretty inexpensively at Rockauto.

It can be. What YEAR 240Z did it come off of? It looks pre 73 to me, but I can't be sure. You'll need bumper brackets from the correct vintage for mounting. I found some early ones on eBay, and I should get them soon.

I got the seat foam for my 260Z from Banzai, along with a few other parts. Mike is a great guy to work with.

I hope some of you are able to come out to the event.

The fusible link is easy to replace. It connects between the starter and the wiring harness. The most time consuming part is removing & replacing the nut on the starter where the ring for the link lands. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4332 http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catWiring.php

Could you have reversed polarity somewhere? LEDs don't like reversed polarity.

Very true. I put the part number in a post in the Sold on LEDs thread. It was the Bussmann 232.

To be pedantic (a trait that I'm good at ), LEDs have high resistance and low current. An incandescent bulb is a piece of wire that glows because of low resistance and relatively high current. As you noted, the Z does not monitor resistance in lighting circuits, so there are no worries about using LEDs. Though, I believe LED vendors are also selling devices to fool the onboard systems that do monitor resistance. It would essentially be a bypass for the circuit.

Matt, look for my Sold on LEDs thread. Replacing the incandescent bulbs with LEDs will drop current flow through the circuit greatly. Also consider getting the parking light relay harness from Dave Irwin, aka Zs-Ondabrain. Also, unless you have more fuse boxes lying around, you might need to get the replacement fuse box from MSA.

I bought some 2 inch vent hose from a vendor on Amazon a while back. It worked well for me.

Do you frequently respond to conversation topics long after everybody else has moved on to other discussions?

If you want to avoid the hassles in swapped parts, Rockauto is probably as good as if not better than the chain parts stores.

Specifically, focus on the EF section of the FSM.

Sometimes it will say that, but it will come back later as NLA. I suggest trying, but don't get your hopes up.

I changed the oil, washed the car, and replaced the horn relay today. The car is pretty much as ready as she'll be for the Mitty on Friday.

Your fuel pump is losing power when the ignition switch goes from Start to Run. When you start your car, the coil on the start side of the Engine Fuel Injection Relay is energized, providing power to the fuel pump. When the key goes to the Run position, another coil on the same relay is energized provided that the relay also receives the signal that the engine is running. All you have to do is read through the references I listed earlier, and you'll be on track to solve your problem.

That sounds like a good start.

Look at the Electronic Fuel Injection Relay. That is where the power for the fuel pump comes from. Go to http://www.xenons30.com/reference and download the 75 FSM (2 links on the page). Go to the following link to get a copy of the wiring diagram: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm.