SteveJ

Amongst the items you'll need (this is not all inclusive, just what immediately comes to mind): New intake gasket From a 70-72: intake manifold, throttle linkage, balance tube, air cleaner, carburetors Z Specialties or Zcarsource would be two sources for some of the parts.

If you go with 195/60R14s, you could get these or these from Tire Rack. Your speedometer would be off a little, but IMHO that's a small tradeoff.

Conventional wisdom (meaning a lot of people have said/typed this, though I have no empirical way of discerning the truth) says to replace the voltage regulator with the alternator. A bad VR can prevent your alternator from getting the excitation it needs to have an output.

Whenever the original horns were removed, the relay was unplugged. That way, there wasn't a loose 12VDC+ wire to touch the chassis in the front of the car.

You might want to start your own thread and describe the symptoms. Be sure to also describe any known modifications and whatever you've done to diagnose and fix the problem. Don't forget to add the year of your car, too.

Pics or it didn't happen.

Thank you.

Here is an easy, and relatively safe, way to check 12VDC circuits. Take two lantern batteries. Hook up the positive on one to the negative on the other. You now have a 12VDC source. You can connect the horn to the free positive and negative terminals. To test the horn button, find the connector in the steering column with the Green/Black wire. Use the resistance/continuity setting of the multimeter. Touch one probe to the G/B wire going to the horn and touch the other probe to the chassis. Press the horn button. If you don't have continuity, you have a problem with the horn button. If you do have continuity, put a wire into the dash side of the connector with the G/B wire and touch the other end of the wire to ground. If the horn doesn't sound, you likely have a problem with the fuse or horn relay.

1 hp(I) = 745.699872 W So even accounting for losses, you don't lose many ponies.

Yes. The wiring diagram in the BE section on the electronic version of the FSM at XenonS30 isn't terribly clear, but the turn signal wiring passes through the hazard light switch. Describe the behavior of the hazard switch and maybe someone can give you advice on how to repair it.

Z Specialties is good people. Oliver was a fixture at Zcar.com for a long time. He helped a lot of people on that board.

Try calling Z Specialties at 800-518-5480. They have the bridge tube listed on their site. (http://www.datsunstore.com/index.php/cName/7073-240-z1-brakes-1) By the way, Black Dragon offers brake tubing with metric threads, though I'm not certain about the pitch. See page 89 of their catalog.

Bruce, I'm not sure what you're asking. The FSM has the layout of the circuit on BE-61, shown below. This shows the complete circuit, including the connectors where the wires pass. Unless someone hacked into the wiring harness, the Green/White wire is probably still lurking around the space between the grille and radiator, most likely coming from the engine harness from around the passenger side.

Now you just need to get the Z badges for the center caps. Do the shoes mean that it's about ready to run?

If all of those check out, you could always go the route of installing a wideband O2 sensor and datalogging. It could tell you if the mixture is off on the top end.

Fuel pump relay/EFI relay depending upon the year of your car.

Sold separately? No. The horns should be in the space between the grill and the radiator. To determine what the 2 pin connector is for, look at the wiring diagram. It will tell you what color wires should be running to the horn. As for the three prong connector, post a picture of it, describe WHERE around the engine block you found it, and describe the wire colors going to it. Otherwise, you may just get more guesses than answers.

Just curious. Where did you hear/read that DGVs were easier? As for determining whether or not you have SU carburetors, there is this way. You could also download factory service manuals from the early model years. (I highly recommend downloading FSMs from different years, especially if you plan on putting parts together from different model years.) The bottom line is that those are early SU carburetors in the pictures.

I left it with the half twist.

I'm not as courageous as you, Phil. When I did the ZX distributor transplant into the 73, I just got the ZX mount. No fuss, no muss, and the car had NO timing problems. Of course, now that I think of it...Tim, why do you need a new distributor mount?

Peter, I hope these pictures help you. IIRC I mounted the bracket loosely to the floor so that the bracket could still turn. Then I ran the bolt through the receiver end and through the bracket. I tightened up the bolt through the receiver, swiveled the bracket back into place, and finished tightening the bracket to the floor. Steve

There is also a relay in the passenger kick panel area. Look at the BE section of the FSM. I had problems with my horn recently. A new relay fixed it. Anyway, it's not a bad idea to test the old relay to see if it still works.

Here are some pictures of the mount I have.

I'll see if I can take some pictures tomorrow.

A friend (& member here) used Bob's Speedometer for his tach IIRC. He was pleased with the results, too.