SteveJ

Yes, but be sure to degrease them thoroughly first. I was thinking of trying the tumbler some time and following up with naval jelly to make sure I got out all of the rust hiding in the threads.

Yes, that would be a good way of breaking the circuit down. Don't be surprised if a previous owner used the red/blue wire to do something like provide constant power for a stereo.

The dome light should get its positive from a red/blue wire. The fuse for this wire should be the next to last fuse in the right hand column in the fusebox. (Just to make sure you have the right fuse.) Be sure to check voltage at the fusebox on both sides of the fuse. To check continuity of the wire, here is what I suggest: 1. Remove the fuse from the fusebox. 2. Unplug the dome light from the wiring harness. This will ensure that it's not a bad dome light causing your problems. 3. Measure resistance with an ohmmeter. Don't rely on the buzzer for continuity. It will sound even if the resistance is higher than it should be. 4. Go from the inside clip for the dome light fuseholder to the red/blue wire that the dome light plugged into. The resistance should be only around 0.3 ohms. Make sure you get a copy of the 71 FSM supplement at XenonS30.com if you don't have a paper copy of the FSM. Look at page 30. You'll see the body harness connections. There is a 6 pin connector on that drawing. You'll find it near the passenger kick panel. Make sure it is not corroded and is plugged in securely. Let us know what you find out.

Johnathan, contact Eddie Radatz. He has been working on Z cars for a long time in Kennesaw and probably is familiar with body shops closer to you.

You might see if a radiator shop would repair it.

Most VIN systems are set up only for 17 digit VINs. After all, cars did not exist before 1981.

Yet another reason this website needs a like button. I guess I'll just put in an alien.

Are you sure the heater flap is open on the driver side?

I went to Caffeine & Octane this morning. It was cold, but it's great to be around so many car people. Details

Have you tried spraying in some starting fluid to see if it fires? If it doesn't, it could be spark related. Why do you think it could be flooded? What do the plugs look like?

I hope it went to a good home.

Check again. Read the EF section. From the chart below, taken from the trouble shooting section, it sounds like the AAR, as Captain Obvious suggested. Note that it gives the symptom of "Engine stalls" and several sections to inspect, including the Air regulator system condition. Note 2 below says "Check this item when trouble occurs during warming-up." That sounds like a great place to start. There are also lots of other things it suggests to inspect. Go through the tests. Tell us the results. My guess is that the good Captain or someone else can help you narrow down the culprits if you still can't isolate the problem.

Wikipedia lists the curb weight around 1800 to 2000 lbs for the 85 model.

You might not want to make the video private. By the way, have you bothered to look through the troubleshooting in the FSM?

I think you're referring to Z Nationals, sponsored by Z1 Motorsports.

It could be a bad flasher, a bad fuse, dirty contacts in the switch, a bad hazard switch (It interrupts power to the turn signals.). The turn signal circuit is completely independent of the headlight circuit other than the mechanical lever, so headlight functionality is irrelevant. Do you or a friend know how to use a multimeter? (If yes, I can give you diagnostics.) Did you check the fuse with a meter or just look at it? Have you downloaded a copy of the FSM? it has a wiring diagram.

Hmm, cheaper, just as effective, and I have two Z cars with old springs. This is something I'll have to remember.

Site member Pat Carr has the "competition hood scoop". IIRC correctly, he still has the flattop carburetors, too.

Go to xenons30.com/reference and find the fuel injection bible and FSM for your car. I'm not an expert on 280Z fuel injection, but I would start by looking at the cold start injector. The FSM and fuel injection bible will give you the proper diagnostics to determine whether or not your cold starting system is working properly.

I drove the 260Z to work and to the Georgia Z Club meeting. It's a nice change of pace from the daily driver.

Don't you think that the Honda wiper motor was a critical detail for your first post. The relay is just for parking. You pass through low speed before going to off, hence the reason to use that wire to the relay. Here is the issue as I see it. The Nissan and Honda wiper motors are wired to be grounded through the combo switch. The wires that are grounded dictate the speed. The wiper motor does not get its feed through the switch. So you would have to bench test and re-engineer the wiring to get it to work with the positive going through the switch. OR you could make sure you are getting the signal wires from the wiper motor back to the combo switch (as I described above), just as it was designed to do. You would have to provide a 12VDC+ fused source to the wiper motor. From what I've read, "Painless" is false advertising.

I believe the member siteunseen lives near Anniston or Gadsden.

Those are sections in the factory service manual (FSM). You should download a copy.

This one's native habitat seems to be Craigslist. I've seen it on there for a couple of years.

The combo switch connects the ground for the wiper motor. So, if you connect 12VDC+ to one of the positions on the switch and turn on the switch, you will always blow a fuse. Now for the rest, I assume you have a pre-73 wiper motor and no amplifier. Take a look at the 72 wiper circuit. Note that the 12VDC+ goes from the fusebox to the wiper motor via the blue/red wire at the B terminal. The L, M, and H terminals are connected to ground at the combo switch. The L & M terminals connect to ground at position 1. The M & H terminals connect to ground at position 2. So if I don't miss my guess (using the 78 wiring diagram for the combo switch)... The yellow/green on the combo switch should go to the M terminal. The yellow/black on the combo switch should go to the L terminal. The blue/yellow on the combo switch should go to the H terminal. The washer is trickier since it is wired completely different from the 70-72 as opposed to the 73-78 wiring.