SteveJ

One word about upgrading the alternator with the 260Z to an internally regulated alternator. (Okay, it's really a few sentences...) If you want to keep your electric fuel pump you'll need to get an oil pressure switch or install a diode between the alternator and the battery. I would have to do some research to tell you what wire. One of the electric pump relays is energized straight off the alternatore (before the voltage regulator). The other relay is energized off of the starter circuit. The voltage regulator keeps the battery from draining back toward the alternator and fuel pump relay coil. Going to an internally regulated alternator will allow the battery to energize the fuel pump relay coil even with the car off.

Dremel to cut the slots in it. Described here: 240z Ignition Switch- Removing Mounting Screws - ZCAR.COM - Datsun : 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX, 300ZX, 350Z, 370Z : Nissan.

PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventilation. If you have a valve on it, it is not a vacuum leak. If you plug it up, you will allow pressure to build in your crankcase where you do not want pressure.

Just for giggles, post another that lets us see the distributor and spark plug wires.

Sorry I didn't respond sooner. Popular places to find 20wt oil are at Ace Hardware (3-in-1 oil) and at motorcycle shops (fork oil).

The flip side, Gary, is that I have learned a lot from my boneheaded mistakes.

You may get better responses if you either take off the control panel and describe what you see (pictures help) or download a copy of the 78 factory service manual (FSM) and go through the diagnostics and report results.

The Georgia Z Club took a trip to the museum shortly before it closed. No one mentioned any Z cars in the collection.

But...but...but...where could one find one of those "service manuals"?

Looking at the parts manual, each brake booster superceeded another through part number 47210-N3001. The top end of the date range is 7507, implying that the 260Z and 240Z boosters are essentially interchangeable. Blackdragon Automotive lists the range from 73-78 for their boosters. You can always return the part...

I try to avoid letting others do basic maintenance such as oil changes, free or not. On more than one occasion the drain plug was overtorqued or otherwise damaged. Who knows how well they let the oil drain, too. Until I am physically unable to do so, I will continue to work on my cars.

Not accurately.

What color smoke? Black - pig rich Blue - oil White - coolant

I don't see much use in that test. Measuring resistance and inductance of the primary & secondary sides of the coil tell you its health.

You might also want to search for "reaction disk". As a matter of fact, here's a google search of this site: Reaction Disk Search Anyway, replace both as mentioned earlier. Oh, and when you remove the old booster, MEASURE how far out the rod extends. (Lord, that sounds bad.) If you don't match it with the new booster, that WILL affect your braking.

Good luck on that. I haven't seen those listed anywhere for a long time...of course, it's been a while since I've searched.

You need to check the CTS when it's warmer to make sure the resistance changes appropriately. If it always thinks the temperature is cold, it will react accordingly. It turns out the person who brought up the issue on FB had changed his CTS. The new CTS was bad, too.

You should be able to get it to your mechanic, but beware of exhaust gasses coming from the engine compartment. You don't have to drive far, do you?

Call Mike at Banzai and ask him. He's a great guy to deal with. I've spent a few hundred with him. I would spend more, but I would end up in the doghouse.

By the way, I saw this on FB in the Datsun parts and needs group in response to someone's problem. Description Hi Guys I have a question. I have a 78 280z 2+2 with a l28e. Im having a fuel problem. The car is flooding itself out. I have to unplug the fuel pump just to let it run otherwise it will start up and die or not even start. I have brand new injectors, fuel pressure regulator and Air Flow Meter. At first we thought it was the injectors and fuel pressure regulator then we replaced the AFM. Anybody have any ideas on what it is I've inspected all wire Connections and none are corroded. Response This is so simple, it's right in the EFI BIBLE. Check the connection to your Coolant Temperature Sensor for the ECU. When it's loose or corroded, the thing thinks it's -40 and floods the hell out of the car. Has nothing to do with the injectors or the AFM.

Mike, I think I found the brand. Dang, I looked up the price of those. It was over $14 for 6. Man, I wish I could coax money out of people's pockets like this.

I forgot to add earlier, you can blast the area around the turn signal cancellation tab with brake cleaner then with a light bit of spray grease. That may free it up to spring up and down. there are other work-arounds as well.

Do you know how to use an ohmmeter? You can see if the switch is making contact on the back side.

Just make sure there is no residual fuel nearby if you try heat. If you have an air compressor, blow out the areas that had fuel thoroughly to prevent vapors from hanging around.

Start with heat and penetrating oil. A propane torch should work. Just make sure you aren't heating anything up that contains fuel. Use Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster for the penetrating oil. They do not catch fire as easily as WD40. Apply the penetrating oil & let it soak for half an hour. Apply heat for a a couple of minutes. Let it cool some. Repeat 4 or 5 times then use some vice grips on what remains of the stud. By the way, there aren't any fuel lines near by are there?