SteveJ

He's referring to the flap on the air cleaner. Some of them are still intact.

Get an inline spark checker. I would be surprised if they don't have those at Canadian Tire or Princess Auto. Where in the GTA are you? I'll probably be up in Scarborough sometime in May. By the way, just for fun, check the polarity on the coil and make sure you don't have it swapped.

You can also use an HEI to replace the stock box.

Cool, glad to hear that.

They can be cleaned out. Contact Dave Irwin or me about it if you need someone to do it for you.

My first thought is to contact Z Specialties and see how much they would charge you for a dash wiring harness.

The green/white wire is usually associated with the parking light circuit. I can't really tell where under the dash you took the picture. However, from seeing the bullet connector, I would think it might be glove box lamp.

If you have the PROPER voltage regulator, it should just plug into the wiring harness. Is your engine wiring harness intact, or is it hacked?

Start here: Hazard Switch ? Brake Light ? Turn Signal Circuit Analysis | Fiddling With Z Cars It's for a 72, but the 73 is essentially the same.

This should work for a 71: Hazard Switch ? Brake Light ? Turn Signal Circuit Analysis | Fiddling With Z Cars

Highly unlikely since the OP got his car to crank by going around the seatbelt interlock relay. The seatbelt interlock relay is notorious to anybody who owned a 1974 anything. My dad disabled it in the 74 Impala he owned. Most people just jumper the seatbelt switches. After careful study, I felt it was best to attack it at the emergency bypass since that will also give the most direct path between the ignition switch and solenoid. Others have commented that the solenoid in their 260Zs weren't getting enough voltage. My SWAG is that they just jumpered the seatbelt switches and were still relying upon the interlock relay and therefore have another set of contacts in the circuit.

With the car running, I would expect it to be a little on the positive side At what RPM? Look a the FSM. It has your answers in a chart. Been there. Done that.

Yes, search some more. I have posted several times on this board about the operation of the electric fuel pump. Also, the car should at least start with just the mechanical fuel pump. More importantly, please search about waking up a car that has been sitting for a while.

Yeah, I've seen a 240Z from Chicago. The frame rails weren't pretty. I suspect that the frame rails on this one will have more rust than the rockers, too.

I stand corrected.

Neither are factory options. A sunroof invites leaks. A vinyl top invites rust as water is trapped against the body.

Buy it from her.

Gas cap: Motorsport! Gas Cap, 70-76 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts Black Dragon Automotive - Parts & Accessories for Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX & Mazda RX7 240Z gas cap | eBay Search the site for threads on waking up a car that has been sitting for a long time, too.

See, that wasn't so painful. The interesting thing is that most of the bullet connectors are wired so that the male end is ground and the female end is hot, so you don't accidentally ground the hot wire. Exceptions that I can think of are the brake light switch and the transmission neutral switch. This is actually a good cautionary tale.

Oh come on. That's part of the sharing process. Heck, I once burned up a wiring harness when I forgot to secure a battery properly. Most of us have done something bone-headed to our cars. It's more of an issue of whether or not it came back to bite us.

Brad, This page should have some answers for you, too. Datsun L-series cylinder head timeline

The 280Z car's wiring can be modified to utilize an internally regulated alternator. It is well-documented in Blue's tech tips. You have to know what you're dealing with first, though.

Kyle, Just getting a new voltage regulator isn't the answer if you purchased an internally regulated alternator. You can easily do the voltage test in the EE section, even if you cannot adjust the voltage regulator. Keep in mind, though, that you CANNOT test the voltage regulator with an internally regulated alternator. I suggest that you get to know your car better before you attempt to take it out on a rally.

If they are in great condition, you might be able to sell them to someone trying to do a restoration. I wouldn't bet on that, though.

Good point, Mike. If the black/white and green/white wires aren't both on the positive after deleting the ballast, the car will start, but it won't run. Oh, and since the tach was changed to a later year tach, you also have to bypass the tach on the positive side. It looks as though the OP did that.