SteveJ

Now is sounds like junk in your fuel system. I know there have been threads with similar symptoms. I just can't remember where the problem tends to be. By the way for the tester, the brightness will indicate spark quality.

Check the quality of the ground for the ignition unit. Is it touching bare metal? When the stalling happens, are the plugs wet? What is the color of the plugs? Pictures help. As for the quality of the spark, get an inline spark tester (Amazon.com: Fool-proof Engine Ignition Spark Tester: Automotive).

I would agree with Phil. What kind of electronic ignition is in your car?

I use a dual relay socket, two SPDT relays, one ring lug and a 6 pin connector. The wiring diagram is on this site. You just have to search for it. If you're in a hurry to get the car going, I could have one in the mail to you tomorrow. I have all the parts.

Do you store your car outside? It sounds like you have a leak around your windshield. Anyway, I would expect that you'll hear back from Courtesy that the ignition relay is NLA. If that happens, send me a PM. I can make a replacement for you.

You can put the 77 distributor on the 72, but you'll need an HEI or something like it to trigger the spark.

If you kill the next, I do have a spare 240Z speedometer.

Check the voltage from the positive side of the coil to ground while having someone turn on the lights, etc. I imagine your voltage is dropping too low. It should be around 9 VDC. How old is the battery? I think Captain Obvious had some good write-ups on checking the float bowls. If those run dry, you have to crank the car to get enough fuel back into them.

Get up with me about the wiper linkages. I'll show you what to look out for so you don't make the same mistakes I did.

I see you found your way over here, Matt. Did you get the electrical gremlins worked out? By the way guys, he's not joking about the price he paid for it.

The 2014 Mitty is just around the corner. I've arranged for a car corral for Z cars at the event. If you live in the Southeast and don't know about the Mitty, check out these links: 2014 Speedfest at the Classic Motorsports Mitty: Classic Motorsports The Mitty | Steve's CARtography (There are a lot of pictures here. It will take a while to load them.) If you want to join us at the car corral, send me a PM.

Actually, I'm going to adapt my gauges to accept low profile wedge LED bulbs using these (10 Pcs Heavy Duty T10 168 194 2825 Wiring Harness Sockets Pre Wired | eBay) and these (Amazon.com: Jtech 10x T10 8-SMD Green LED Car Lights Bulb W5W, 147, 152, 158, 159, 161, 168, 184, 192, 193, 194 2825: Automotive). Here's a picture of the test fitting on a spare speedometer I had lying around.

There. I fixed it for you. I think the money depends upon the customer. I've seen plenty of posts that say the 72 is preferred because of the maturity of the platform. I think it's more of personal preference than any strong market forces. Of course, Carl Beck might have an informed opinion on this (as opposed to my relatively uniformed opinion). What is the date on the door plate? Is it still around?

It may just need a new solenoid. Another possibility is that there is enough corrosion in the wiring that the voltage getting to the solenoid isn't always high enough to get it to engage.

Get under your car and look at the U-joints in the drivetrain. Inspect for wear. Make sure the differential is not able to move around.

Here's another (1974 Datsun 260Z), though $2500 for "ran when parked" is pretty steep to me. I paid $2500 for the car in my avatar in 2008.

Offer what you feel like paying. If he's offended, it's his problem. It's not like he HAS to take your offer. Frankly, I think this ad would be a better starting point: 1973 Datsun 240Z Avoid the blue on blue 71. It looks like a turd and is being sold by a flipper.

As I said before, if the running lights work, the meters should have 12 VDC+. Of course, if the harness has been hacked, all bets are off. You could check the G/W wire to ground at each meter to verify. You should do continuity checks on the R/L wire from the rheostat back to the meters. If you have a good ground and the R/L wire is intact to all of the meters, jumpering the R/L wire to ground should give you dash lights.

Post in Georgia Datsun Owners & Georgia Z Club on Facebook. Someone might just have one.

Sorry to read the bad news, Leonard. I haven't seen you post in a while. Too bad it couldn't have been something better.

And if you can't repair the turn signal switch, Dave Irwin and I have switches available for sale. (He gets first dibs.)

In that case before you take the plunge, do the research. Join Hybridz.org and start searching on triple webers. Read a lot before you are tempted to ask questions. There will be plenty you don't understand. Your father and brother can fill in some of the gaps. As long as you keep in mind that there are no real shortcuts to learning about this, I suggest that you jump in and learn.

This is not a very good combination. I hope you have some car savvy friends or you can learn about cars VERY quickly. Triple Webers are not for the faint of heart or unknowledgable. They require a certain level of skill to synchronize.

At first I thought it might be an internally regulated alternator. When did you get the alternator?

Unplug the rheostat and put a jumper across the terminals in the dash harness where the rheostat was plugged in. It's just as easy as that.