SteveJ

I would prime the fuel line. The fuel filter is probably the easiest access point.

A plan.

I have a beat up air cleaner cover I can let you have cheap. I just have to remember where my stash of wing nuts are to secure it.

This counts as threadjacking, Charles. To atone for this, you must bring us a shrubbery.

The voltage on the injectors will only fluctuate about 2 volts when they are firing. You might consider getting a fuel pressure gauge to install on the fuel line in the engine bay. Get one that goes to 60 PSI. From your follow-up, it sounds like you didn't have pressurized fuel in the rail. I'm not an expert on fuel injection, but I'm thinking the injectors might not be making much of a clicking sound if there isn't fuel in them. In the meantime, download the FSM for your car. You can get it from this site or from the link in my signature.

You're welcome. If you have any other questions, post away.

It would be unusual for there to be an issue with the turn signal after Dave reconditioned it, but it is not impossible. The turn signal is the point where the brake light circuit and turn signal circuit meet that could cause the issue that you describe. Fortunately a meter and knowledge of the circuits can give us a more definitive answer.

Gainesville, GA

Yes, they are. They tend to transmit less vibration than the brass ones. Personally I never have been bothered by that with the brass bushings.

Adding some dielectric grease in the socket wouldn't hurt.

While we are going over things, you do have a condenser attached to the negative wire of the coil, don't you? Make sure the spark plug and coil wires are seated well.

Well, if it's in wood shape, you could do a nice mahogany stain on it. That would really stand out. Damn autocorrect.

It's probably the turn signal switch. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/ https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/ I'm two hours away if you want a definitive diagnosis.

I said we weren't going to get into that.

I didn't emphasize it because I was planning to inspect in person, especially since the car has been recently painted.

I saw them in person. The current owner is a good friend.

Libre Wheels. http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=bre_datsun_libre_wheels

Come to think of it, @Stanley, have you checked the gap & dwell of your points lately?

What I told you about points and voltage around the coil is not in the manual because it was Automotive 101 back when these cars were made. We won't even go into how, in a pinch, people would set the gap with the cardboard from a cigarette carton after they filed the points some because the points got fouled.

Do you have points? If the gap is closed on the points (or close to closed), you won't see full coil voltage from positive to ground. Having the key on with the engine not running is why points will burn up. They aren't designed to have a constant flow of current. For the hard starting, are you sure it's not a fuel issue?

Unless your car is running rough, I'm not sure if there is an issue here. Am I missing something? Are other electrical systems malfunctioning in your car?

There is a Red/Blue wire going to the speedometer for the Brake Warning lamp. After the light, it comes out Yellow/Blue. The Yellow/Blue wire branches off to get grounded at the Master Cylinder and Hand Brake, per the 1971 Supplement.

Don't measure across the coil. Measure from the positive terminal of the coil to ground. If you are measuring across the coil with the points closed, you will see zero volts. If you are measuring across the coil while the car is running, the voltage will seem low, especially if your meter does not respond quickly from the voltage going up and down 13.5 times a second (or more if your idle is higher). Here's a basic breakdown of the wiring for the ignition: 1. Starting the car: The ignition switch connects the White/Red wire (12VDC+) to the Green/White wire. The Green/White wire goes to the tachometer and comes out Black/White. The Black/White wire goes to the coil. 2. Running: The ignition switch connects the White/Red wire to the Black/White wire. The Black/White wire goes to the ballast resistor and becomes a Green/White wire on the other side of the resistor (resulting in a drop in voltage). The Green/White wire goes back into the wiring harness where it joins the Green/White wire described above. The negative wire of the coil goes to the distributor where it meets up with the points. The points will ground the circuit when they close to generate the spark.

You should have moved up here. You would have been able to get me to come over to lend a hand.

I had been wondering why you've been so quiet.