SteveJ

There is wiring in place for an electric fuel pump. Follow what I posted, and we can help you. I haven't messed around with the electric fuel pump wiring on the 240Z because my 240Z has the modification that Nissan designed for that year. However, I do understand the FSM, and I'm trying to guide you on how to figure out how to wire it in. Please go back and read post #6.

I believe it goes to a hard line to the engine bay. If I'm correct, it's represented in this drawing by vapor vent line. This is from EC-15 in the 72 FSM.

I started putting the seats back together last night, but I ran into a glitch. I counted and recounted the screws, and I found I was 1 short. The wife made a Home Depot run today to get a M8x1.25 machine screw and some 5/16 star washers. I used the new screw on the first seat, and as was putting the second seat together I noticed I had an extra screw. Apparently my counting skills were not what they should have been yesterday. So the seats are together and ready to go into the car. I'm going to pull the center console first because I want to replace it. The replacement console is sitting the hatch area of the car.

@Tirnipgreen Is this something you're looking for?

Here's an alternative: https://www.amazon.com/Jack-Sealey-Valve-Spring-Compressor/dp/B000R9ZITC It was mentioned in this thread:

The green is usually related to the black/white. There is one green that is downstream of the fuse for the black/white in the fuse box. There is another green that branches off the black/white for the fuel pump. So, how can you tell which green wire this may be? Pull the middle fuse on the left side of the fuse box. Set your meter to continuity. Check each wire for continuity at the connector with the black/white and green wires to the right side of the middle fuse. See photo. For each wire that did not have continuity with the fuse box, check again but with the left side of the middle fuse. If the wires had continuity with the right side of the fuse, that means they are downstream of the ignition fuse. If the wires had continuity with the left side of the fuse, that means they are part of the circuit that feeds the fuses for the ignition fuse and fuel pump. Post the results of your test, and let's continue from there.

Here's a photo of the 240Z version of #13. I don't know why the parts catalog says you need 4.

If you want to know why the Z32 looks the way it does, the best thing to do is go to a ZCON where Toshio Yamashita (aka Yamasan) is presenting his story of the design. If you saw the competing designs, you might say that Nissan picked well. Anyway, Nissan did have a more affordable sports car (sports coupe) at the time. The 240SX/Sylvia slotted in well to the old 240Z role except for the lack of an engine in the North American market to keep up. Of course, with the strong Yen at the time, it was about impossible to have a sports car built in Japan that was "affordable".

Well, the ammeter is also held in by the wires going to it. Make sure you try this with the battery disconnected.

You could post photos or look at what RockAuto has. It's probably the same sender.

Posted to the wrong thread.

I installed the Nissan door striker latch. After a little adjusting, the door closes and latches just like it should. Before I did the install, I asked the wife to pick out which latch was stock and which was aftermarket. She picked the wrong one, but I thought it was for good reasons. We compared the two, and she pointed out some details that I didn't noticed on first inspection. The Nissan latch is on the left. The aftermarket latch comes down too far at the top, and it looks thicker on the left side. I'm thinking that it may not allow the striker to come in far enough to latch reliably. After being satisfied with the door, I turned my attention to finishing off the carburetors. I installed the banjo filters, buttoned up the carburetors and installed them back on the intake. They will be ready when I need to call on them to fuel the engine. Here's a photo of the new filter next to the old, rusty filter. I finished up the evening by replacing some connectors at the solenoid. That allowed me to mark another thing off the list. The window channel felt should arrive on Monday, so it will go in next week. The new air cylinder for the QuickJack is estimated for Wednesday, so I should be able to get the car in the air the following weekend.

The leak is at the seal of the piston where the silver shaft goes in. Only air can leak out. The hydraulic seal is functional. Apparently it is still safe to use like that, but the new part should be sent out. I don't mind having to replace it myself. It's a pretty straightforward procedure from what I can tell by looking at it (and from the email the support person sent). I have to undo a couple of bolts, remove the bad cylinder, slide in the new cylinder, put the bolts back, put air in the air cylinder, and bleed the hydraulic cylinder. I don't envision taking too long.

I wonder if that's a California thing with Kroil. I ordered it from Amazon in the past without being a "Business Member", and I had no problem with putting it in my cart today. Do you have any friends in Arizona who could order it for you and smuggle it across the border in case you need it in the future? 😉

Well, the QuickJack support team is quick to respond. With a couple of emails back and forth, they were able to help me find the air leak. Now I am waiting on the remedy. Once the QuickJacks are operational, I can drain the gas and replace the tires. I might leave the car up in the air with the new tires until I finish so I don't flat-spot them. Parts are arriving today. I only had aftermarket door striker latches in my parts collection, so I ordered what I hope is a Nissan version from Z Car Depot. I also am expecting the banjo bolt filters for finishing off the carburetors. On Monday, I should receive the window channel that I ordered from an ebay seller in Thailand.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1970,240z,2.4l+l6,1209147,electrical-switch+&+relay,ignition+starter+switch,4700 https://zcardepot.com/products/ignition-starter-switch-240z-260z-280z-510?_pos=2&_sid=8b6530aba&_ss=r https://zcardepot.com/products/ignition-switch-with-keys-240z-260z-280z-510?_pos=2&_sid=6af94aebf&_ss=r Of all of the lights, only the turn signal switch power goes through the ignition switch. Based on what is on the Z Car Depot listing for the part, you may want to get their 800-510. It's up to you.

That only shows a few of the connections in the steering column. Again, I suggest you make a chart with the details above and share it here.

Yes, sir. I got the BL-5000SLX. If you have a Costco membership, watch their website for sales on them. On special, Costco has them for about $200 less than the next lowest price I could find. While I already have a scissor lift, I thought the Quickjacks would be a good addition. They will be once I get the parts from Bendpak to fix the ramp. I could use them, but I would have to remember to add air to the one air cylinder before trying to lower the vehicle. Several items on the list such as draining the gas tank and replacing the 13 year old rubber on the wheels will be easier if I can just put the car in the air. I also plan on using it for oil changes and transmission work since the scissor lift cannot accommodate those tasks well.

I finished the assembly of the Quickjacks today. Unfortunately, one of the air cylinders will not hold pressure. I even swapped the valves between the two ramps to see if it followed the valve. Nope. It was the cylinder. Bendpak has acknowledged the help ticket. While I wait for that to be resolved, the next round of parts arrives tomorrow, and I hope to get the screens for the banjo bolts on Friday. With car meets on Saturday and Sunday, I won't be spending as much time in the garage, but I hope to get a couple of more items crossed off the list.

Maybe someone on Facebook in the Georgia Z Club group or Georgia Datsun Owners group may be able to give you a suggestion. You could try Fairlady Customz. https://www.facebook.com/FAIRLADYCUSTOMZ I've never used Brandon's shop, but he is active in the Z community.

I took the hint from the turn signals not working. There are only a couple of common points between the start circuit and turn signals that would display intermittent failure. These common points are the battery terminals, the ignition switch, the ammeter, and the fusible link. The last two are not as likely to have intermittent failures. It's probably the switch on the back of the ignition switch. By the way @240z70, the turn signals not working could easily be the ignition switch. I do not make random suggestions often, especially about the s30 electrical system. Try operating the turn signals with the ignition off. If your car is wired as stock, they won't work. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/ Now, here is how you can test what I said. When you have a hard time starting the car, leave the key in the ON position. Try turning on the fan. Likely it will not run. Also, the wipers probably won't work. The turn signals, fan, and wipers all get their power through the ignition switch.

It may be a combination of things. Along with what @Zed Headsuggested, it may also have something to do with the switch on the back of the ignition switch. Also, how good of a charge do you have on your battery? A suspect/weak battery will cause funny things to happen.

Z Car Depot has my latest parts order in the mail, so I expect to see the package on Thursday or Friday. A guy needs a good distraction to reduce the leftover stress from work. That meant spending yesterday evening in the garage to clear out room for the Quickjacks, and moving them into the garage this evening. I did the grand unboxing, performed the required RTFM, watched a few YouTube videos on Quickjacks, and set about the execution. Since I'm not in a rush, I only worked on the ramps this evening. The hoses are connected, and the cylinders have been pressurized. No air leaks detected. Tomorrow I hope to finish putting the quick disconnects on the long hoses and pump. Maybe I'll even get to bleeding the system. We'll see.

Yeah, I've never posted this link here before...https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/ Hint - Look at the picture in the link. You'll see what I meant in the first sentence in my post.

Sometimes the wire colors on switches will differ from the wire color on the harness. For the wires you have left, here is what I suggest you make a chart like this so we can help you figure out where things go. List Wire color, including the color of the stripe Connector type: spade/bullet Connector gender: male/female Wire Origin: Dash harness/turn signal switch/headlight switch