SteveJ

Um, that would not be caused by an MSD ignition. That would be caused by some combination of old battery, bad alternator, and bad voltage regulator. Post pictures of what you're talking about with regard to the new alternator.

There was never a wire from the VR to the fuel pump. The yellow wire from between the alternator and the VR is the neutral from the alternator. It had enough voltage and current to energize the coil for the fuel pump relay. If the relay is gone, there is no circuit to control. You have two open circuits.

It's been a long time since I removed the piggy back harness for the fuel pump relay. I'm not sure whether or not I trashed it. Anyway, I believe the piggyback harness is between the voltage regulator and the engine bay harness. You should be able to identify a yellow wire that should branch off the harness to the passenger compartment. It goes to the fuel pump relay in the kick panel. The easiest way to defeat the factory modification is just to unplug the relays in the passenger kick panel. Are you looking at connecting the new fuel pump power wire to the old factory wire running back to the fuel pump?

I finally decided to replace the gasket for the intake & exhaust manifold today. I also found some clues as to why my previous effort to tighten the intake didn't work. Among other things, I got a really good view of where about 17 years ago I found that a stud was missing near the #6 exhaust. I just didn't have the skills back then to take things apart and put in a new stud. I also found the nut was missing under the #5/#6 intake runners. More on that later. I also had one stud around the exhaust come out with the nut attached. Fortunately, I had spare studs already on hand. After working everything loose, I removed most of the old gasket. I had to scrape off only a little remaining material. I thought it was clean enough for the new gasket. I worked the new gasket into place relatively easily. Before putting the intake back in place, I took a quick look at it. There was definitely an exhaust leak at #2. Also, there were signs of a leak below the #5/#6 intake runners. I did wipe it down a little. You can see the smears below the intake. Anyway, I got the intake and exhaust cinched down nicely, and the carburetors are back in place. Tomorrow, I will re-balance the carburetors since I hope I have rid myself of all of the leaks around the intake and exhaust.

It helps to share some of the surprises, especially when people join here because they want to "wake up" an old Z. On the other hand, I haven't been documenting some things like the oil leaks from dried up seals...

On my 240Z and 260Z, I used about any tool I could fit to press on the flat areas at the red arrows. You can't push too hard there, as you may warp the ring. The early cars didn't have the inner ring area where I have the green arrows. I would think after removing the sending unit wires and low fuel level wire that you may be able to get a set of pliers that open wide enough to go across that area. Hat tip to @siteunseen for the picture I lifted from this thread:

Yes, imagine the clip below the hole. It holds onto the arm going through the hole. Maybe I can use one of my spare mechanisms for show and tell.

I'd just have to remember where I stashed my diodes...

I can make them, too.

D'oh! I was going from memory. I'm getting too old to do that.

Here, take this: Maybe this will help you with identifying the players... I would suggest that you be patient. I have seen a person get black-balled by shops because he came across as high-maintenance. I don't think you'll find someone else at Charlie's price point who would be more reliable. One more screen shot for good measure:

Go ahead an buy a timing light. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVYGV4/?th=1 (Note, there is also a more expensive one with dwell if you think you might ever deal with points.)

https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/datsun-240z-260z-280z-battery-frame-se?variant=731393333 Cover: https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/reproduction-original-battery-top-cover-set-for-datsun-240z-260z-280z-lhd?variant=13941872197741 (Sold out)

Did you get a 40A alternator or did it have a higher rating? The 40A needs an external VR.

Let's not go too far, shall we?

If Charlie retired, it was only in the last couple of days.

Good to know. That eliminates one of the extra variables. Don't forget to check the valve lash and timing, too. Those are important to have correct before futzing too much with the carburetors.

Actually, I had a 24F in my 240Z a long time ago and made the mistake of driving it without having the battery fully secured. When I made a right turn, the battery moved left, and the positive post contacted the engine. Fortunately, I put out the electrical fire before the car burned up. I am all for using the 24 instead of the 24F based upon my personal experience.

Welcome. This thread I started on getting my car back on the road after 11 years in the garage may be helpful to you.

You may be on to something. The oldest reference I can find about Zedd Findings is only 21 years old... https://www.classiczcars.com/search/?q="Zedd Findings"&updated_after=any&sortby=relevancy

Then he would have to answer to General Observation.

That's how he earned his commission and rank.

I didn't even think to mention this earlier. Are you still using points in your distributor? If the gap and dwell aren't right, that could weaken the spark enough to make the car bog down going uphill. I was working on another guy's 240Z not that long ago. I got the carbs set up pretty good, put it bogged down going uphill. Another friend set the dwell, and it improved the car for a while. I finally convinced the owner to get a Pertronix. Once I installed that, the car would run uphill like a scalded dog.

Have you measures the current draw? Unplug the voltage regulator and see if you still have a current draw.

There is no Z35. The chassis designation is still Z34. The Nissan Z is slated to be a 2023 model, not 2022. The rules in the US allow Nissan to call it a 2023 model year car. As an example, I purchased a 2012 Ford Mustang in June 2011. I don't think there is any grist to mill here. Nissan has already announced that the base model will be the Sport, and the higher level trim is the Performance. And there will be 240 of the Proto Spec in yellow. If you want something to speculate about, I think we won't see much on any road tests of the new Z until it's close to the launch date, especially if they are making any late tweaks to compete with the Supra.