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Everything posted by SteveJ
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In case you need to look at the service manual for a 240SX for more info on putting it back together (or names of parts) - https://forums.nicoclub.com/nissan-240sx-factory-service-manuals-for-nicoclub-members-t549156.html -
Go to https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/ If you're sure the transmission is from a 95 - https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/1995-nissan-240sx-parts.html Even closer...https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-list/1995-nissan-240sx/power_train/transmission_gear.html
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Motorsport Auto - http://zcarparts.com/
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Probably not. You're just hearing the contacts moving when the coil in the relay is energized or de-energized. If it sounds more like someone generating Morse code, then it would be a sign something is wrong,.
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After I read the first sentence, I was thinking, "Change the ignition switch." I'm glad it's working for you. The sheer screws are there to deter theft...for a minute or less. You'd have better luck pulling the rotor out of the distributor or pocketing the fuel injection relay to discourage a thief without a tow truck.
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I got the same error when I tried it on my phone.
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If you're on Facebook, you can also watch it there (without Gayle's intro being interrupted by the backstage interview with Jack Rousch) go to https://www.facebook.com/MotorsportsHOF/ and scroll down to the livestream from the ceremony. The remarks start about 1:06:00 into the event.
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From the induction ceremony last night...Be sure to watch through to the backstage interview with Peter.
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You'll probably need to buy one off ebay and get it rebuilt if you don't already have a distributor. Not enough rebuildable cores were sent back, so the supply dropped.
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Actually, I only know the two women who were inside: Anna (Randy's girlfriend) and Gayle Brock.
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It is for positive crankcase ventilation. There should be a hose going from that to the PCV valve at the balance tube. They are parts 3 & 5 on this page: https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/emission-control-device. Hose: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/15-6211 Valve: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1972,240z,2.4l+l6,1209169,exhaust+&+emission,positive+crankcase+ventilation+(pcv)+valve,5052 If you plug the PCV, you risk pressurizing your block and finding out how weak your oil seals are.
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Courtesy of Randy Jaffe The black tie ceremony is tonight.
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And don't forget to perform this test as illustrated in the FSM. I think if you get liquid, the test indicates failure.
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I had a few minutes to spend in the garage this evening, so I ran a quick load test on the alternator. With the headlights on and fan on HIGH, voltage went from about 14.4 down to 14.0. It does have an electric fuel pump and GM ECU for the fuel injection, so the load would be comparable to a 280Z at idle. The real test will be for me to take it on a drive. The old VR/alternator would start out fine, but the voltage would decay as the trip went on, to the point that it was around 12.8 on the voltmeter at idle...No charging, but no draining.
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OTOH, pushing in from the vent line would indicate whether or not there is an adequate seal on the filler cap. Unless the tech had the right adapter, that could have been the source of the leak.
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And if you have an air compressor or tire inflator, you can use it for the air source. Just make sure you dial the regulator down on the compressor.
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I made my own smoke machine, too. Buy some tire valve stems, and remove the valves inside. I bought the soldering iron at Walmart.
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Make sure the relay is good. Make sure you have good grounds for the horns, that is no paint under the mounting point, since they ground to the chassis. Make sure the wiring up front isn't corroded. You should have seen how bad it was on my 240Z when I went to get her back on the road last summer. Make sure the grounding is good between the horn button and the steering column. (Added) Make sure the fuse is good.
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@maximus35 - Next time you get to hunt for the customers. You can't expect me to drag them to you. 😉
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http://www.zzxdatsun.com/ - If it's not in his catalog, call him.
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PM sent with a possible source for you.
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Mike, don't let math enter into the argument. I have costed out the materials to make some parts, and I understand exactly what you mean.
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It sounds like you're in a tricky position unless you can tie the radiator support down to the floor or at least to something heavy.
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Do you think you could fit in a set of spring compressors like this to get the suspension to compress? https://www.harborfreight.com/macpherson-strut-spring-compressor-set-63262.html Photos of how you are trying to do it would help with getting suggestions. Is the engine in the car? When I replaced front bushings a lifetime ago, I used a floor jack to lift the control arm into place. The car was on jack stands on the front. The rear wheels were sitting on the ground.
