SteveJ

Just another random Amazon buy...It was the first meter I had handy that wasn't autoranging. Otherwise I would have used the Fluke for the video.

Those readings seem high, though it could be, in part, due to technique. Watch this video of me taking resistance readings on the grounding points and battery. If it was working well before you did the work, the first thing to do is to check over what you touched to see where you messed up. That's my starting point on a lot of troubleshooting.

The coil is not grounded full time. It is only grounded when it is triggered by the ignition system. It sounds like you are saying that in your configuration the positive is coming from the ECU. I am not familiar with Duffy's car, I have no idea how he wired his ignition or tachometer. If firing when attempting to start is intermittent, verify the Hall effect sensor is working properly and the ignition system is grounding when getting the proper signal from the sensor. It sounds like you have done that already. What is the resistance from battery negative to the grounding screw in the photo? How about resistance from battery negative to the grounding post on the alternator? Again, if you have the stock connections on the battery, you have a large gauge wire to the starter and a smaller gauge wire (around 10AWG or so) going from the battery negative to the firewall. If you don't have the second wire, your grounding could be compromised. The starter is firmly bolted to the bell housing which, in turn, is firmly bolted to the block. The cable is the weakest link in that chain. The next weak link is corrosion on fasteners or between components. Also, don't be afraid to take a resistance reading between the engine block (unpainted surface like the bolts around the timing chain cover) and the shock tower studs. Have the meter on resistance, not continuity. You want the number, not a buzzing.

Oh, I did find someone on ebay selling NOS 200SX clocks. I bought one to see if I could transfer the works into a 240Z clock. It was a fail. The mounting points were different, and I am not clever enough to fabricate any adaptations.

Modify your own - https://hyllest.wordpress.com/2014/09/28/quartz-clock-movement-into-a-240z-clock/

Again, please post a photo from your car. Maybe someone else understands what you are describing, but something is lost in the translation for me.

Post a photo of where the oil is coming from. From Rockauto's website: It's been a year or so since I took one of these fuel pumps apart, but I see what almost looks like a weep hole in this view.

First answer...is a question. Are you not running the battery negative to the starter? Stock has the battery negative (4AWG to 2AWG) running to the starter with an auxiliary wire around 10AWG bolted to the firewall. You want a solid mechanical contact to both the starter and firewall with no paint to interfere with the contact. Second answer...is another couple of questions. What do you mean by terminated and secured? In wiring, terminated means installed at the appropriate location, and secured means you have bundled the wires so they can't get pulled loose. Why are you calling the green/white wire a ground? In the stock wiring configuration with the Key in ON, Battery positive goes to the starter connection point. From there, it goes to the fusible link and to a white wire. The white wire goes to the Ammeter and comes out white/red. The white/red goes to the ignition switch where it comes out on the black/white wire. The black/white wire goes to the ballast resistor and goes to the green/white wire. The green white wire goes back to the tachometer to drive the signal for the tach and comes out black/white. That black/white wire goes to coil positive. When I installed a Pertronix ignitor in my 73, I removed the ballast resistor and connected the black/white from the ignition to the green/white going to the tachometer. That way there was still a signal driving the tach. So your questions also drive more questions. Where are you getting the voltage for your coil? Do you still have the stock tachometer? Why are you looking for a ground wire near the coil? What circuits are losing grounds?

My bill is up 2%, but it will go up more when I increase the value on the 240Z.

Lucky you. I gave away my 1 ton after two engine pulls because it didn't hold up well (and my garage was getting crowded.) The 2 ton isn't that much more ($70 when they are not on sale), and I think it would be safer in this application. @corbenBHere's another reference that might help you: https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030

That is the oil pump. My suggestion is that you take the following steps. Stop what you're doing. Get a copy of the factory service manual for the car. If you are on a PC, you can find the link in my signature. Otherwise, go to the resources tab on this site to find the manuals. Study the FSM to find the relevant sections to what you're trying to work on. Don't even think about removing the oil pump before you have the engine at TDC. (Otherwise, you'll probably mess up the timing on the engine, especially if the oil pump gets turned while it is out.) On the other hand, why is the oil pump in the way? I'm pretty sure the cross member is more of an interference than the oil pump. By the way, from the amount of RTV on the oil pump, it looks like someone removed it in the past. I don't believe RTV is needed if you do it right. Also, why are you trying to take off the oil pan?

The Brake light in the speedometer is lit if any of the three conditions is present with the key in ON: The parking brake handle is pulled up enough for the switch to close. (Normally closed switch so the button is up.) The brake pressure differential pressure switch is closed. (BR-6 Brake indicator switch) The brake warning lamp relay is de-energized. (The relay coil is energized by the neutral of the alternator. For stock this means the key is ON but the engine isn't turning, or the alternator has failed.) So, how to test what conditions are present? Disconnect the green/yellow wire from the parking brake switch. Make sure it isn't touching a grounded surface. Disconnect the green/yellow wire from the brake indicator switch. Make sure it isn't touching a grounded surface. Unplug the brake warning lamp relay. Plug in only one wire at a time to see if the light comes on. If it does, unplug it, and try the other wires. More than one condition could be present. The brake warning lamp relay could also be affected by an alternator swap. An unplugged hazard switch will take out the turn signals. For the headlights and running lights/dashlights, I would look for wires that were not connected properly at the steering column. Also check fusible links and the connectors between the dash harness and engine harness.

Yep, in this case I'll get them tomorrow. I didn't quite luck out on next day.

I can show you the tricks for changing out springs, too, if you don't know them already.

On the other hand, JDM Car Parts shows the style I'm more familiar with and says it's for all years of the 240Z. I hope an owner of a 70 or 71 will clarify. https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/choke-cable-fire-wall-grommet-240z?variant=766761437

I believe for your car, the choke cable grommet should look like this: https://www.zeddsaver.com/products/240z-70-71-choke-cable-grommet-on-firewall There should only be the choke cables coming out. I cannot tell you what the wires are in your photo. Many previous owners have modified wiring and usually not for the better. In fact, I'm going through my cars and fixing many of the modifications made by myself and others.

The stock wiring for the reverse switch does NOT go through the choke cable grommet. (FYI - That is not the proper choke cable grommet.) The wires should come off the main engine harness where it goes through the firewall near the battery. The wire colors are listed as red/black and red. IIRC there should female bullet connectors on the ends of the wires. They should be routed so they come close to this area around the transmission. (See below) You have to be under the car to see the wires. Sorry, I didn't take photos when I was replacing the switch a few months back.

Take photos from the same angle I did and post them here.

The taller section goes toward the middle of the car. To orient yourself, I took the photo from under the bumper on the passenger side. You can see the angle on the mounting spot on the car.

You could bring it down to my place for me to look at.

Oops! The car has demonstrated a desire to pull to the left at freeway speeds. It isn't too bad, but it's noticeable. I put an IR thermometer in the car so I could check the brakes after a drive. Sure enough, the left brake was about 30 degrees or so warmer than the right. I bought some rebuilt calipers, rotors and pads. They arrived, and I set about changing the brakes today. No problems on the left with disassembly, though I realized I should have purchased new slider pins. At least I had plenty of cotter pins handy. I got new rotor mounted and went to put on the caliper...but it wouldn't go over the mounting holes on the spindle. I called up a friend who suggested they might be 280Z rotors (FYI: 260Z rotors are the same as 280Z). No, it couldn't be that. I knew I selected 240Z parts when I was on Rockauto. Measurements don't lie. The hats on the old rotors were definitely taller. (And there was enough of a groove toward the edge that I wasn't going to try turning them.) I double checked the part on Rockauto, and I picked up on the key detail I missed before. It said the rotors were for AFTER 8/73. In other words, they had 260Z rotors under the 240Z listing. D'oh! Anyway, I found the correct rotors at Summit Racing. They also have them at the Georgia location, so they should get here in a couple of days. I also ordered some new bolts and other brake hardware from ZCarDepot since it would be a good idea to replace all of that, too. Delayed gratification, but no real damage.

That orifice is the "fuel pressure regulator". That is what allows the pressure to stay around 3 to 4 PSI on the fuel rail.

Yes, that is normal. It is a return line, not a fuel vapor line. The vapor line is routed differently and ends down below the ballast resistor/coil area. As @siteunseenwas saying, when the floats rise in the float bowls, they cut off fuel from going into the float bowls. Since this is a low pressure system that is not dead-headed, the fuel must go somewhere. The block on the right end of the fuel rail is where you go from supply to return.

Can you get a photo of the backside? Someone might have a suggestion.

Most of the cars I have seen keep the hoses.