SteveJ

You should see continuity at the two wires with the turn signal stalk in the down position. If you don't, it is likely that there is too much build-up on the contacts. Other possible issues: Bad solder joints where the wires are mated to the contacts Broken wire for the left turn circuit Contact is not in the board for the left turn signal (low probability) Corrosion at the connector.

I have the number for the current owner of the 46. 🙂

The construction of the 280Z turn signal switch is quite different from the 240Z switch. Inside the switch there is a "bridge" that will connect the contact for the power wire to the contact for the left and right signals. As you can see, there is a spring to press the rounded side down. Here is a picture of the contact pads for the turn signals. This is before I clean up this switch. When the stalk is in the neutral position, the bridge rests on the brown areas between the contact pads. You can take apart the switch and clean it up to make it nice and shiny! If you don't feel comfortable taking apart the switch, send me a PM, and we can discuss my cleaning services. Here's a brief description of what I did with that switch: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/07/11/late-280z-turn-signal-switch/

The interesting thing is the wiring diagram lists it as yellow/blue. The stripe sure looks green to me. Maybe it just really faded.

I went to my car to verify and cleaned up the wire. Confirmed! Good sleuthing!

Not sure if there was a reason or just Chinesium. I would be wary of getting junk in the filter from drilling, though.

Rockauto seems to have the Fram filters in stock. I bought some as "just in case" for the 260Z since I recently had an issue that seemed to be resolved with replacing the fuel filter.

So I did a little more digging. The black/yellow is shown toward the bottom left of the wiring diagram. This shows the green wire. There might be a black/white wire hiding around there, too.

Okay, so I went down to my car to take a look to see what I could match up. The black/yellow and green wire are for emissions controls. Matching wire lengths helps, even if the controls have been removed. The black/yellow is for the opener control valve, and the green is for the solenoid valve. Look through the EC section of the FSM for more info. In my car, a previous owner had cut the wires and spliced them back in. I'm not sure why. In looking at the washer motor, my car does not have a yellow/green running to the washer motor. I believe it was black/yellow. I could not find a single yellow/green, only the one in the 3 wire connector for the wiper amplifier. Of course, there's only so much time I'll spend contorted in the footwell to look at the wiring. As for why someone would cut off a body ground...well, I don't use the term IPO (idiot previous owner) for fun.

Yellow - connects to the temp sender Black - goes from the distributor to coil negative Green/white - from ballast resistor to tachometer Black/white - from key switch (ignition power) to ballast resistor Black/white with shroud - from tachometer to coil positive Black/yellow & black - washer motor Green - typically horn Red/black - reverse light switch on transmission Black/yellow - neutral safety switch for solenoid power The black was probably a ground - maybe the chassis ground? Black/yellow - solenoid power Yellow/green - not sure why this would be alone. It could be associated with the intermittent wiper relay. Page BE-2 does show the Y/G wire as a pin on a 3 wire connector. The mystery is that BE-2 shows 2 Y/G wires for the engine harness. One is on the blue connector, and the other is on the white connector. However, I only can find the destination of one Y/G wire at the 3 wire connector.

If you're getting one brake light to work, but not the other, things to consider: It's still the turn signal switch. Sometimes the tabs are not bent at the correct angle to make contact. Bad/wrong bulb Wiring issues You should try to check the voltage at the white/red (right) and white/black (left) wires at the 6 pin connector at the steering column. I suggest using a t-pin to allow you to monitor the voltage with the connector put together. Stick the t-pin into the back side of the connector, and touch the positive probe of your voltmeter to the t-pin and the negative probe to a good ground. Step on the brakes to see if you have voltage. You can also see if you have continuity between the green/yellow wire at that connector to both the white/red and white/black wires. If either of those tests fail, your turn signal switch may need to be tweaked to adjust the contacts.

That would indicate you're guessing wrong. If the resistor was removed from the tach circuit, there would probably be issues.

Yellow and black = Fuel sending unit. Green = fuel pump power.

Is the resistor still in the circuit? Measure from the wire at the tach to the coil negative. It should be about 2.2K Ohm.

I took the 240Z out for Caffeine and Chrome this morning. The original plan was to drive the 260Z, but it was having an issue this morning that seems to be fuel related. I almost got rear-ended by a woman who didn't believe in proper following distances, but that was the end of the drama for a while. The great thing is that the heat took a break this morning. After a while, I had a nice chat with a gentleman who recently purchased a 70 from BaT. I provided him quite a bit of Z Car info.

I thought it didn't exist, but I just searched. It exists! This allows schrader valve replacement without losing charge. https://www.amazon.com/MASTERCOOL-81490-R134a-Remover-Installer/dp/B000KITSMI Of course, this is for 134A service ports. I'm not sure if one exists for R12.

That is jute. I didn't use any when I put in new foam and recovered the seats. I have the foam sitting in contact with the seat bottom.

Hanging out with John Morton today at Atlanta Motorsports Park. It was his first time on a track since his health scare a couple of years ago.

Interesting reading on the subject: https://ratsun.net/topic/67533-vacuum-problem/

I would think that with the improper function of the vacuum delay valve, you may not get the full effect of the EGR. The EGR helps to control NOx emissions by injecting some exhaust gasses into the intake to reduce the cylinder temperatures. In addition to the visual inspection, there is tailpipe monitoring. The test will look at hydrocarbon (HC), carbon monoxide (CO), and NOx. Typically HC is from the timing not being right or improper valve lash. You might want to read up on setting the valve lash to make sure it is correct. Heck, the correct valve lash will also give better performance. CO is from being rich. NOx tends to come from being lean or hot. Read through the EC section of the FSM and test/repair what you can. Make sure you have fresh oil and a full tank of gas when you test. Check your vacuum lines, especially for the carbon cannister. And as I said before, if you're in doubt, get a pre-test. If it doesn't pass, post the results if you need some guidance on repairs. As for the 76 year of manufacture, check the build date on the plate in the door jamb. If it's missing or illegible, check your VIN against the VIN range for 77. It could be that it was an 8/76 or 9/76 build. There are 3 years (sometimes 4) associated with a car: model year (sometimes the title may have a different year if a car was sold after its current model year), safety year, and emissions year. You would have to do some research to find out if the model year and emissions year differed in that timeframe.

They do test EGR functionality according to what I read, though I didn't find the procedure in my quick search. The part numbers are very similar. I cannot speak to functionality. When in doubt about your California smog test, ALWAYS get a pre-test. You don't want the car labelled as a gross polluter.

While no engine swaps happened at the last car meet, I did work on a friend's 280Z. He said he had to use his horn recently, and as he laid on the horn button, the horns quit. After a quick glance at the fuse box cover, I told him to step on the brakes. No brake lights - therefore blown fuse. Another friend had a spare 15A fuse. We went about checking other circuits. He had no side markers, either. That will have to wait for another day.

No problems so far.

Have you checked to see if the 280Z part is still available? I checked. It's not. Also, you can get that part from a dealer in the US if the 280Z part is NLA. https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-valve-assembly-vacuum-delay-14958v6700

What valve on the 280Z are you referring to? Do you even know what a vacuum delay valve is for?