SteveJ

I wouldn't know. I've never had to design such a circuit.

Read this: https://www.frostburg.edu/personal/latta/ee/twinplex/schematic/twinplexschematic.html Also here: https://maker.pro/forums/threads/car-radio-antenna-has-an-inline-85mfd-capacitor-why.102193/

I tried to post from my phone, but apparently it didn't go through. I backed the car out of the garage. It was only about 15 feet, but with the step between the driveway and the garage, I think it was enough to get the car to settle. Fortunately I still had the tape marks on the straight edge from a while back. The tires are new, but the width shouldn't differ too much. I put the straight edge up against the tires. Yes, @Captain Obvious, I know that isn't the right spot, but it is consistent with my prior measurements. The new bushings made a significant difference. The straight edge isn't exactly in the same place relative to the car as before, but this still gives a good idea of the improvement.

I don't know if he'll get the original back using RockAuto/Cardone.

The 3rd owner of the car said he thought my car might have over 300K miles on it. It has either 250K miles or 350K miles on the chassis, and I wouldn't be shocked if those were the original bushings. I'll have the tires on soon, and I can check the toe again.

If you are on FB, here's a photo from an early 240Z booster they worked on: https://www.facebook.com/BoosterDewey/photos/a.1575990385761591/4967042226656373/

You might reach out to these guys: https://www.powerbrakebooster.com/ I have not used them, but I do recall seeing S30s on their Facebook feed.

With the end link nuts being stubborn, I had a couple of more opportunities to use the induction heater. On the first top nut, I got the end link hot enough that the bushing caught on fire. For the other end link, I thought it would be a good opportunity to shoot a demonstration video. If you're not familiar with the induction heater bolt removers, I have a positive impression so far.

I have to admit that I am reassembling without touching the spindle pins. I want to know if I corrected the toe with the new inner bushings.

The inner bushings are off. They definitely show 48+ years of wear. @Captain Obvious, I can see how the distortion could lend itself to letting the toe change. I'll put the inner bushings together and check on the spindle pins. So far, aside from the one end link on the sway bar, everything has been cooperating. If the new poly bushings don't fix the toe problem, I'm going to try the eccentric bushings from MSA.

John, is it plastic or metal on the back side of the HEI? If it's metal, I would say go for broke and use conductive paste. I'm thinking the two holes in the unit for mounting may be the path to ground they want you to use. If it's plastic, use the silicone adhesive and bolt the unit securely to the heat sink. Then the heat sink should be bolted securely to the body. Check resistance between the mounting bolt of the HEI and the negative of the battery to make sure you have a good path to ground.

So far things are working out in the disassembly. I had one end link on the sway bar that didn't want to cooperate, and I was rounding the nut. I figured it was a great time to break out the induction heater. I heated up the end link a couple of times, getting it cherry red, put a smaller socket on the impact gun, and spun off the stubborn nut with ease. The rubber in the bushing was smoking a lot, and I wondered if it was going to ignite. On the other hand, the torch would have almost definitely ignited the bushing. I am happy with the induction heater so far and would suggest someone working on a bunch of rusty bolts should consider getting one.

Good to know. I also purchased a ball joint press. I could experiment with that, too.

I'm only working on the rear at this time. It's almost impossible to get rubber anymore.

It's a tiny meter, about 1.5 inches by 1.5. The nice thing is that if I blow it up, it was cheap.

Yes, sir. I am putting poly bushings in. This may be interesting.

For future reference, you can put the fuel pressure gauge on the line between the fuel rail and the carburetor. I found it easier than trying to connect it to the fuel pump.

The heat sink should be bolted to the fender. That should be an adequate grounding.

I have a 20 ton press and plenty of sockets. I may be able to push out the old rubber. I did see videos on using fire to have one's way with those bushings.

On the advice of a friend, I bought a transmission jack from Harbor Freight to hold up the differential. The nice part is that my 20% off coupon was good to use for buying it. The coupon said jacks were excluded, but I guess it meant hydraulic jacks. I also took the opportunity to buy a set of 3/8 impact sockets, and at Home Depot I picked up a compact 3/8 impact gun. Now to find what bolts are uncooperative.

I'm kind of thinking it reminds me of a Dino with fewer curves. Maybe it's just the orange.

I actually saw that helping a friend with his 280Z. He bought a fancy FPR from the company that employs Corky Bell. The fancy FPR was supposed to work with the stock FPR to increase the fuel pressure even at higher vacuum. Well, when my friend got someone to install the FPR, the installer didn't bother reading instructions (Sometime instructions aren't for sissies.) and removed the stock FPR. When my friend brought the car to me, he had Corky's number, and I confirmed what was needed. My friend got a stock FPR, and I installed it, but I didn't put a vacuum reference on it at first. On the first test drive, the car stumbled at tip-in, and I could even see it with the AFR meter. I found an available port for the vacuum reference, and the car ran a lot better.

And the oil pressure looks good, too.

Use a conductive adhesive between the HEI and heat sink. https://www.amazon.com/Conductive-Adhesives/b?ie=UTF8&node=401542011

@siteunseen was referring to the return side of the fuel pressure regulator.