SteveJ

Mike's advice is spot on. I looked at a Z car owned by a young gentleman who lives near me. I pointed out several things to him that should be worked on to correct big safety problems. Hook up with with a veteran. You can learn from all of our mistakes!

If you want an earlier air cleaner, I have an extra that I'll let you have for $10 (that includes shipping). It doesn't look great, but it will work. Steve

What's wrong with printing the pages from a CD, putting them into page protectors, and wiping the page protectors clean when they get greasy? That way you can read the pages again the next time.

According to Z Car Creations (http://www.zcarcreations.com/cdman/cdman.htm), the 70 FSM should be available on CD. However, the Courtesy Nissan site (http://www.courtesyparts.com/secondtier_s30.html) does not list it. You may try contacting both of them.

Check your U-joints, too.

Carl, when are you going to write the next definitive book on Z cars? Most of the time when I'm trying to find an answer to somebody's question on Z cars, I end up referencing your site. For instance, I used your page on performance numbers drawn from car magazines to refute the argument that the 280ZX was a fat pig compared to the 280Z. Okay, so it might not make you a lot of money, but it would certainly stir conversations within the community.

Yeah, the biodiesel 240Z has been around for a couple of years. The guy who built it sold the car, probably to go do other projects. If you search on ZCar.com, you'll find posts on it.

Jay, don't worry about the tach reading. Have someone rev the engine while you're taking voltage readings.

Perhaps it would have been better if I said "overvoltage". In my more Z ignorant times (I'm still Z ignorant, just less so than 5 years ago.), I installed an interally regulated alternator in my car without knowing it was internally regulated. I bolted it in, started up the car, and blew out one of my headlights. OOPS!!! I checked the voltage at the battery with the car running, and it was at about 19 volts. So, I quickly got online, did the research that I should have done in the beginning, and found the solution. Now, if Jay is running the "double regulated" electrical system long enough, perhaps it is causing the electrolyte in the battery to boil, and the overpressure is popping off the battery caps.

Jay, You said you replaced the alternator, right? If so, there is always the possibility you were sold an internally regulated alternator, especially if you just told the guy at the parts counter that it's a 280Z. The internally regulated alternators started with the 78 280Z. If that is the case, that would cause the overcharging problem you seem to be experiencing.

Read this thread for ideas: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19118

Jay, pay attention to what Arne wrote!

To truly install a 4 point harness correctly, you'd need a roll cage to mount it on.

Jay, It sounds like you might have an overvoltage situation. Check the voltage at the battery again with the car running and tell us the reading. The tops of your battery would come off only if someone took them off or if pressure built up in the battery (hydrogen gas formation during the charging process). The headlights will also blow out if they get too much voltage. As for your fuses, did you check them for continuity with the fuses pulled out of the fusebox? Steve

Josh, I suggest that you do some research to figure out what you might want to do. Here is the Amazon listing for a book I purchased on turbochargers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0895861356/103-0325839-2372616?v=glance&n=283155&s=books&v=glance. Also search through this site, http://www.zcar.com, and http://www.hybridz.org for information on turbocharging an engine. I doubt you'll find a ready made kit on adding a turbocharger to your existing car. It's not like there's that much of a market to do so. Most people who want to turbocharge their Z find a 280ZX turbo (hopefully a rusted-out car), and pull the drivetrain and wiring harness from that.

Bob pretty much identified your wires for you. You could have a very dirty or bad combo switch. That could account for the dim headlights. My headlights were pretty sorry until I converted them to operate off relays.

Actually the US federal standards specify that air bags be powerful enough to stop a man who is not belted. In other words, they pop out with enough force that they are overkill. (http://www.iihs.org/laws/testimony/pdf/brief_stk_122302.pdf pg 3) Indeed, in American market cars, you will see the acronym SRS on the airbag cover. SRS stands for supplemental restraint system. Frankly, I think that it's ridiculous to design airbags to protect unbelted passengers. If they have so much of a death wish that they do not want to use seat belts, we should just let Darwin take over and allow them to remove themselves from the gene pool.

I bet that would buff right out.

At a minimum, you'll need a 350 from 1976 or later. The smog equipment will have to be accurate for the year of the block, too. Expect to have to go to the referee station, as well. IMHO, "dropping in a V8" isn't the best thing to do on a budget. What kind of budget are you talking about? How much research have you done? Spend the money to get a copy of the Jags That Run book for the Datsun 350 conversion. It may not have all of the answers, but it will give you an idea of what you need to do. Also, IMHO, about any horsepower estimates you get on your questions on modifying your L28 are worth what you paid for the estimate. People can guess, but it's only a guess. Good luck in your decisions.

Check the sockets and bulbs, especially on the left front. My guess is that the left front bulb is out.

You haven't upgrading your alternator to an internally regulated alternator, have you? I know I had problems with running on until I realized I had to put a diode in the charging circuit.

Jason, there are several light bulbs, and they are wired in parallel.

Stephen, shouldn't your circle have been a little more to the right. I swear that I can see the edge of the VIN plate.

Jason, it doesn't truly matter what our opinions are, but I have some suggestions for helping you decide the path you want to take. First, while the gentleman who gave you the advice may be an automotive enthusiast, we have no idea what his pedigree might be. His opinion is worth as much as you paid for it. Having said that, you need to decide what you want to do with your car. Are you looking to restore it? Do you want a beater? Do you want a modified car? Are you thinking of turning it into an ITS car? Knowing the destination can help you decide whether or not to take the journey. Any decent car is going to cost you money. That's pretty much true, no matter what make or model. Set your budget and timeline and at least double both. That will put you in the ballpark. I'm not sure how much damage the thieves inflicted upon your car, but it sounds like you have been confronted with numerous electric problems as a result of their actions and the ravages of time. Consider getting some quotes on replacement wiring harnesses from ZBarn and possibly other vendors. You're willing to pull the dash and tackle other problems. A replacement harness may save you from damaging the car with improvised repairs. I'm guessing from the pictures in your gallery that the car has received some battle damage over the years. Depending upon how detailed you might think of restoring your car, it can be expensive to fix past "repair" jobs. The Z car in of itself is a pretty reliable car. While the L28 you have is not as universal as a Chevy small block, that engine is in a bunch of 280ZXs that may be sitting in junkyards around where you live. Parts scavaging can save your pocketbook. The Z compares well with a Camaro from the same generation. In the book, Datsun 240Z & 260Z Gold Portfolio 1970-1978, there is a copy of an article from Motor Trend magazine (August 1972) comparing a Camaro Z28 to a 240Z. While the Z28 will beat the 240Z in 0-60, the Datsun definitely held its own and then some. The comparison was done 4-speed to 4-speed. Try to find a Camaro without a slushbox and a jacked up price. Don't forget, too, that what you might save in parts for the Camaro, you will probably pay back at the pump.

Have you checked to see if the part is still available through your local dealer? It might be cheaper than buying that one and having it shipped.