SteveJ

I looked at my car. Yes, it's pretty much plug and play.

IIRC, it was all plug and play to drop in the interally regulated alternator (well, except for the conflict between the internal and external regulator and the fact that you need to install diodes to prevent feedback that will cause run-on, but I digress). I'll try to remember to look at my car tonight to verify. What is the rated output on your new alternator?

Yes. In my case, the voltage peaked somewhere around 18 volts. That's what happens when you do parts replacements/upgrades without the proper research.

First, get a voltmeter and take measurements. Let us know what the results are. Second, are you sure you got an alternator that is not internally regulated? Third, what were the circumstances that necessitated changing out the alternator, regulator and battery?

Which is better, something local or the right part?

One of the key things the owner of a vintage car should have is an electrical meter. It's too inexpensive to do without.

You may want to post your events in a chronological fashion. What happened and when? It's a little confusing to see tidbits of information scattered about. Since you say your new battery won't start the car, have you checked your fusible links?

Gosh, it seems like so many people are quick to pull fuses. What fails "on"? For the life of me, I can't think of anything. Something close might be a short in the ignition switch that makes it where you're not cutting off power when you turn off the car. The fuse pulling method is needed ONLY after eliminating the charging system as the culprit. Next, instead of pulling fuses willy-nilly, focus on systems that have changed such as a new stereo/amplifier, a car alarm, or other electrical accessory that has been added. Also check the stupid stuff like the dome light and glove box light. If the glove box door isn't closed and the bulb is good, it will drain the battery.

Of course, the charging system itself can drain the battery. About 12 years ago, I was having problems with the battery draining. A friend suggested checking the voltage regulator. Sure enough, the current draw stopped as soon as I removed the voltage regulator. I replaced it and never worried about it again.

Interesting. I could have sworn I saw that car advertised for sale in Stafford, VA, for $10,000. If I wasn't about to move, I'd volunteer to check it out for any interested party.

Is the Austrailian version of the hi/lo switch the same as the American version? If so, you might want to see if you can get one from Zbarn.

I'm moving from Woodbridge, VA to the Alpharetta area. The company is in Alpharetta, so I won't have to commute into the city. Steve, the wife already knows that I'll be looking for a yard big enough to build a shop in. Thanks for the reminder about the Mitty. Boy, my wife is in trouble now. I already sent a message to the local Z club. It will be nice having meetings in my own back yard and having a job where I'm not so short-staffed that I can never break away for the club meetings. Anyway, I was working on the intake & exhaust, but I never got close to finishing it. So, I'll button up everything just to get it running and fix it properly when I get down there.

Well, I was offered a job this week in Atlanta, and I couldn't turn it down. I'll be starting in June. Now I have to get the Z in good shape so I can get it down there. I'm just looking forward to living in a place where I can have at least a two car garage so I can work on the car.

I haven't tried it, but I have a very hard time thinking it would work. Of course, I haven't tried running a circular saw across my stomach, but I'm sure it wouldn't be a good thing. Here are my 2¢. Go to your local auto parts store and look at all of the additives on the shelves. If acetone did increase gas mileage, some company would package it in a brightly colored can and sell it as an automotive additive, charging more than what acetone would cost. All they have to do is label the product's ingredients as petroleum distillates. As for your brother's opinion, think of it this way. If I own a refinery and found that I could increase fuel mileage just by adding acetone, I would sell it at a higher price and create a marketing campaign advertising higher gas mileage just by using my gas. Also, ethanol is added as an effort to oxygenate gasoline to reduce emissions, though I cannot attest to ethanol's effectiveness in that role. Your best bets for improving gas mileage are to make sure your cars are tuned properly (and consider changing out points for an electronic ignition) and watch your driving habits.

Here is one way to diagnose the problem: 1. Check the voltage on the battery with a voltmeter (not the guage in the car). If it is above 12 volts, inspect your fusible links. 2. If the voltage from step 1 was low, charge the battery fully and try to start the car. If you have the same symptoms, it's the battery. 3. If the car starts and runs, measure the voltage with a voltmeter (not the guage in the car) across the battery terminals and on the cables running to the battery while the car is running. They should be approximately the same and in the 14 to 14.5 volt range. If the voltage is lower on the terminals than on the cables, you have a corrosion issue (Of course, clean the terminals and cables.). If the voltage is low on both, there is an issue with the charging system. 4. The early Z cars have adjustable voltage regulators, but your Z does not. Refer to a factory service manual for checking the function of your voltage regulator. If the regulator passes the FSM tests, it is possibly the alternator. I have seen a parts place "test" an alternator and say it is good when I knew it wasn't, so I always take those "tests" with a grain of salt. Note: Conventional wisdom says that if you have a problem with the alternator or regulator that you replace both. I have replaced the voltage regulator without replacing the alternator with no ill effects. However, later I upgraded to an internally regulated alternator a few years later. Steve