SteveJ

Grounding issues are common. So are worn/dirty contacts on the switch. Don't forget to check the integrity of your fuse. Pull it and check it with a meter. Fuses can look good and still be bad.

Ron, I lucked out. I thought I had updated this thread, too. I found the larger plugs for sale by Year One. Ironically, they are about 30-40 minutes from me. I bought the plugs, but I haven't installed them, yet. I appreciate you remembering to look. By the way, why hasn't Canada realized that having Diet Mountain Dew is a key to great life? Heck, it seems like almost every other US product is available up here. Steve

Peter, there have been many posts in the past about problems with parking lights/running lights. Please search for those terms to get some ideas of what to test. The parking lights and the flashers are different circuits. You don't state the year of your 260Z, and I'm not sure if Nissan wired Austrailian market cars differently from US cars or if 260Zs later than 74 are wired like US 260Zs or 280Zs.

Well, even though the wiring in my 73 has held up 9 years since I first did it, I don't recommend doing the cutting and splicing trick for the headlight relays. On the other hand, you're already cutting into your wires... This is how I did it back then. It hasn't given me any problems over the last 9 years. Steve

Mike will take a check, Andrew. I've donated that way before.

It's only two more weeks. I'm going to be working fast and furious all of the week before to get my cars ready. I'm looking forward to meeting some of you there. Just be on the lookout for an okay looking 260Z & an ugly 73 240Z parked near each other near the Suzuki Bridge.

Considering the amount of information I get from here, it's about time I chipped in again.

Hmm, if I find a pool and a REALLY big battery, maybe I could get rid of the rust on the whole car all at once... I could be technical since I'm an engineer (and engineers can be real a-holes in that way) and mention that you ARE using several chemicals... Any decent electrolyte would work. Just be sure to rinse thoroughly, preferably with de-ionized water to remove any electrolyte caught in the nooks & crannies & folds.

Suggestion #1 - Learn how to read current with a meter. Always start with the highest scale on your meter and work your way down. Otherwise, you'll at least blow the fuse if not the circuit board. If you don't want to break circuits to put in an ammeter (or multimeter with an ammeter function), consider a clamp-on ammeter (higher cost meter). I have used one for work since I'm measuring 40A DC circuits at times and most meters only go up to 10 Amps. I have also used it on a friend's car to diagnose circuits that might be draining the battery. Clamp-on meters help you work faster on circuits since you don't have to disconnect anything, but you give up some on accuracy. Be aware that most clamp-on meters measure AC only, so don't buy one of those expecting it to work on your car's DC circuits.

Even with some of their shipping costs, RockAuto frequently beats the chain stores. Their parts compatibilities also seem better to me than what the chains have.

I think that's in part because there are fewer people talking out of their pie holes around here (and the Ignore feature works, too;)).Heck, even Bubbles didn't hang out here long. I have also noticed that we don't get the school break crowd around here.

Why go over to Zcar.com? You can find Tony D here.

I checked an old MSA electronic catalog I have. 30-2224 77-78 Coupe, 74-78 2+2, Left [A] 30-2225 77-78 Coupe, 74-78 2+2, Right $143.83 5lbs. It looks like it should work.

Well, I bought the tubing, so I could do E's fix. However, before that I decided to try something that Roger Schmidt from ZBarn suggested to me. I took out the passenger side mechanism and cleaned it with brake cleaner. I used brake cleaner because it is pressurized in the can, and it evaporates quickly. After getting rid of the grease and grime from 30+ years, I sprayed all moving parts with white grease, again from a pressurized can. (Note - Don't use WD-40 for this. It's NOT a lubricant.) I re-installed, and it closes great. I can get it to close with a gentle push instead of a slam. It might be something you can try.

I agree with Mitchell. Point it up in the engine bay.

Alhbln has a good point. Have you checked your dwell? Also, how old is your resistor? Could it be the culprit?

Roger shipped one to me for $44. While I know shipping would be higher, and possibly duties could be added, too, I guess the best question to ask is this. How much can you afford?

How old is your coil? It could short internally.

Google is your friend. (*Hint* Look for the link that leads you back to this board.) Of course, keep in mind that you'll be challenged to find any wheels that look decent in a stock size, except for some good used wheels. It's a challenge to find 15 inch wheels with the 4.5" 4 lug pattern & zero offset.

What was the McMaster-Carr part number you used?

Yes, it needs to be in that hole. In a worst case scenario, you could try getting another door mechanism from Zbarn. I just bought one from Roger a couple of weeks ago.

Thanks, Mike. Did it have the 1.75 inch plugs, too? Those seem to be the most difficult to locate.

Where in Ontario are you? I'm headed up there for a week in April & at least a week in May. My company does business with the Caterpillar dealer in Toronto & the Eaton plant in Milton.

Yeah, reddat does value his parts. I've been going crazy on eBay recently. I don't recall the-z-connection having plugs, but I'll look again. I bought several items from him.

Well, ZeddFindings only has 1 inch plugs, so I'll probably bite the bullet and try one of these solutions unless someone has other suggestions.