SteveJ

Used wiring harness - Z Barn (Be patient with Roger. He doesn't rush, but he'll get back to you.) Gas tank cleaning - Siphon out any fuel you can. After that, raise the back end and put a container under the tank. You'll find a drainplug on the bottom of the tank. Loosen the holding straps on the tank. Remove filler hose, vent hoses, and fuel lines. Drop the tank and take it to a radiator shop. Take compressed air and blow out the fuel lines from the engine side back toward the tank. Above all, get a copy of the FSM.

I've been in Brampton the past couple of weeks on business. Are you SURE Canada has a summer? You'd be hard pressed to convince me right now.

If you call Eddie, I think he knows of another Z specialty shop on the East side of town. Eddie is over in Marietta. As for knowing your adjustment specs, I suggest you check the factory service manual (FSM). It has the info in it.

You could try calling Eddie Radatz at 770-926-6609. He probably knows of a shop that could do it, at least if you're in the Atlanta area. After all, Georgia is a tad larger than Rhode Island.

I'm glad you found the solution. I work with controls wiring, and I can tell you that I have seen plenty of instances of equipment that tested just fine even though there was a wiring error. Of course, the wiring errors ALWAYS make themselves known when you're starting up the equipment.

I think you need to do some research. Why should someone sponsor you? Are you competitive regionally with SCCA or NASA? http://www.zcar.com/forums/863687/sponsors http://www.zcar.com/forums/776639/gettin-sponsor http://www.zcar.com/forums/682595/sponsors

Sam, Dave will probably come through with pictures before I can. I have a 260Z combo switch sitting in my garage. Unfortunately, I'll be a few hundred miles from my garage for the next couple of weeks. (Does anybody know when it's supposed to get warm in Canada?) One bit of good news is that RockAuto has a replacement switch that looks like NOS for only $200. I put one in my 260Z. Also, VintageConnections has 9 wire connectors that will work with the headlight switch in case you want to replace the connectors.

Are you sure you don't have any broken studs on the exhaust manifold? That could cause a problem to start, and it only gets worse over time. When you go to replace the exhaust gasket, be sure to true the mating surfaces. The manifold can warp, and that would just cause the problem to come back later. As far as an easy way, I won't hazard a guess. Wiring is more up my alley. If the clutch starts acting funny again, just go ahead and replace the slave & master cylinders and the rubber hose. Brake fluid is mean to those parts. That's experience talking. As a matter of fact, I have two master cylinders, two hydraulic hoses, and one slave cylinder waiting for me when I get back to the states. (Canada is EVIL. I know this because they don't believe in Diet Mountain Dew. I had to sneak it across the border from Buffalo.)

Apparently it was an epidemic. I was fighting with both cars all weekend. Sunday morning, I dropped an order for a few hundred in parts to cure some of what ails my cars.

Mike, would you stop killing off EVERY half-decent idea I come up with? About all I have left is to get a cable tracker, detach the wire from the starter, and trace where it runs to. (I've had to do this at work to trace miswired equipment.)

Mike, What's the build date on your 73? I'm wondering if it didn't get some of the 260Z wiring changes.

It's true. I'm only as rude as you want me to be. It's actually only matter of fact. Case in point, another user on this forum posed a vague description of an electrical problem. It turned out that he lives near me, so I went over to his place. With a lot of patience, we were able to track down the problem. It wasn't even close to what people (including myself) were guessing. However, the owner didn't know how to describe the problem. I told him in person pretty much everything I typed to you. Also, developing good searching techniques helps a lot with getting better answers quicker. I had a problem last week, and I found the answer on here much quicker by searching than starting a new thread. There is a goldmine of information online, especially at the links in my signature.

You might want to consult a 75 280Z FSM with that late build date. What are the first 3 letters in the VIN?

Did you verify the plug order? (1-5-3-6-2-4 counterclockwise) Did you verify the fuel with a pressure gauge? If yes, what was the pressure? If not, how do you know you have fuel? What are your compression numbers? Dry? Wet? Have you consulted the Fuel Injection Bible? (I think Blue's tech tips has a copy and possibly XenonS30 as well.) What do your plugs look like? What type plugs are you using? I know...all questions & no answers. However, you'll get better suggestions by answering those questions.

Mike, The previous owner may not have used the factory wiring. The 240Zs had wiring for electric fuel pumps even though they used mechanical pumps. The dealers used this wiring for fuel pumps for the service bulletin on the 73s and 74s with the flat top Hitachi carburetors (see Wick Humble's book). Steve

I'm back from the final day of The Mitty. It was nice meeting Vince, Ron & Carl. I'm glad you guys came out and showed off your cars. I put a bunch of parts on order this morning because trying to get my cars ready for The Mitty made me realize how much deferred maintenance has caught up to my cars. At least the 260Z kept running today. If any of you come up to Road Atlanta, please send me a PM. I live only half an hour away. (I really lucked out with where the house is located that my wife liked. )

You can figure out your build date by 1. Looking at the plate inside the driver's side door frame. 2. (if your door plate is missing) Posting your VIN and asking people for an idea of the build date. I agree with what OldHemi wrote. Please also post the wire colors. That can help with tracking down the function.

If you don't want to do a search, purchase or download a repair manual or FSM. All I needed to know to do the job was in there. Don't forget your flair nut wrenches.

I'm at a loss, Mike. It doesn't look anything like my 240Z. I'll do some looking around tonight if I have the chance.

I will look at mine tonight. Glenn, could you post the build date of your car? Sometimes that helps to track down information.

Mike/Dave, I looked at my 73. I think Mike is describing the fusible link. Steve

It was another great day at the Mitty. I'll be posting pictures on Facebook soon. I will link it to the Classic Z Car page on FB and the BRE Datsun page. I had a couple of Mitty posters that I was fortunate enough to get Peter Brock to sign for me. He was admiring the 510s at the time. My nephew gets one of the posters. I'm trying to convert him from pickups to cars. Of course, pickups are nice for tow vehicles...

Those coolant hoses go to the intake. They are on my 240Z, but not on my 260Z. If you don't see the lines to connect them to the intake, I would just short circuit them.

I posted pictures from today on Facebook. I put a link to them on the Classic Z Cars group and on the BRE Datsun page. Enjoy!

Heck, I'm happy if the place carries NGK plugs, period. AutoZone & Advance around here don't.