SteveJ

Yeah, the relay upgrade is really just designed for the 240. Blackdragon has the generic one, though I would replace the relays on it with sockets. (Actually, I have one of those kits for my 260Z, and my plan is to replace the relays on that kit with sockets in order to be able to replace relays.) The high beam switch is part of the turn signal switch. It swaps the return path from the headlights. IMHO it wasn't the best design. I don't like switching paths to ground.

Dawg, First suggestion, put the year of your car in your posts. It helps others help you. Second suggestion, follow Jeff's advice. Adding on to what Jeff said... Look at the FSM to get the wire colors for the headlights from the switches to the headlights. You'd think I'd have those memorized by now with as often as I type up information on them, but my memory isn't what it used to be. Start at the point where the engine wiring harness meets the body wiring harness, and remove the wires from the connector. If you search online long enough, you can find 14 gauge wire with the same color/stripe combination as stock. It's worth your while to replicate the scheme. Crimp new connectors onto the new wires. You can find the proper connectors at Vintage Connections. I've purchased from this guy, and he is good to work with. Integrate in Dave's (Zs-ondabrain) relay upgrade. You can find it at Motorsport Auto.

Also to harp on a point I make frequently, download a copy of the FSM (our favorite TLA). It will have the specs you need to compare with the results of measurements from a reputable shop.

My guess is that it was a personal car or perhaps a factory gift to him or Bondurant. His name might be on the original title or bill of sale. I don't get amped up over such collectables, so I wouldn't be able to estimate what value a collector would place on previous ownership.

Okay, so I had to search on that one. I can see what you mean, Carl, for a collector who must have Nissan/Datsun history. I wonder what the seller's proof is.

Here is a description of the circuit that I put on another website: This is how the schematic of the Combo Switch works: In position Off, no contacts are made. In Position 1, only contacts 1 and 2 are made. In position 2, contacts 1 & 2 are made, and contacts 19 and 20 are made. Contacts 1 & 2 are for your parking/running lights. Contacts 19 & 20 are for your headlights. 12VDC+ comes into the switch on the White wire with Red strip (W/R) at contact 19. This is regardless of key position (unswitched source). The 12VDC+ goes out the Red wire ® at contact 20. The Red wire goes to the fuse box where it is split between two fuses. The fuse with the Red wire goes out to the right headlight. The Red wire with Yellow strip (R/Y) goes out to the left headlight. There are two possible return paths for the headlights. One is a Red wire with Black strip (R/B), and the other is a Red wire with White strip (R/W). The return path is determined by the position of the high/low beam switch that is integrated into the turn signal switch. The switch will make contact with either the R/B or R/W wire. The other contact in the switch is tied to ground. This ground ties back over to the Combo Switch and goes out as a Black ( wire. Can you give more details on what you mean by "the lights not to come on at times"? Have you noticed certain conditions? What accessories are running? Can you replicate it at will? I could possibly help you if you want to drive it up to Forsyth County.

Eddie Radatz 770-926-6609 961 Shallowford Rd NE, Kennesaw, GA 30144 He is also a member of the Georgia Z Club. The next club meeting is November 4. Come on by if you can.

It doesn't matter where you start. Just fold a little on the edge so the clip touches the boot on either side of the lip on the console opening.

Did you check your dwell and timing, yet? If you have too much unburned fuel in the exhaust, the smog pump will provide enough oxygen to support combustion on decelleration. You can check this by pulling off the smog pump hose and capping the inlet to the exhaust. If the backfire goes away, you know you have too much fuel in the exhaust. A big help to eliminating that in my 73 was the installation of an electronic ignition. Better combustion eliminated the unburned fuel problem.

280Z center consoles are still available, and they fit 260Zs. I put a new one in mine earlier this year.

Okay, so now you've narrowed down the primary culprit for your running lights to be the combo switch. Search for how to clean it, or contact Dave to see about him cleaning/servicing it.

In my humble opinion, you'll be hard-pressed to find something better than the FSM. The copy in my link below isn't that great, though. I'd troll eBay and other sites to see if you can find a paper copy. It's worth the money. The poor FSM for my 73 is showing the signs of 17+ years of Z ownership.

Can you post more details? What speeds does the problem show up? Can you be more descriptive than "squirrley"? Does the car pull to one side? Does the steering wheel shake?

Mike, Search on this site. You'll see plenty of people with the same problem you are experiencing. Things to consider: 1. You said the fuses were good. Did you check them visually or with a meter? The fuses can fail under the end caps, and you won't see it. Sometimes the break in the fuse is so small, you have to magnify it greatly to detect it, as well. 2. The power for the parking lights and headlights all flows through the combo switch. Depending upon the amount of corrosion in the circuits, the switch can do fine for 20 years or so. Some have lasted about 40 years. Dave, aka Zs-ondabrain, has developed a lot of experience rebuilding these switches. He also sells relay upgrades for both circuits via MSA. 3. Inspect your fusebox carefully, too. I saw a fuse glowing orange in the fusebox before the fusebox melted. No, the fuse didn't blow, either, and it wasn't a slow-blow fuse. I did my own upgrade to relays for the headlights over 10 years ago, and I haven't had a problem with either circuit since. Steve

When I had to do some work on my brakes that involved adjusting the rod to the master vac, I build a wooden bench about the height of the door sill. That way I could lie on my back a little more easily to work under the steering column.

The boot attaches with clips. Look at the Black Dragon catalog. You can find them there.

In addition to what the others have said, do you still have the smog pump attached? If not, have you plugged the port going into the exhaust manifold? Either condition could increase the amount of oxygen in the exhaust. Combined with bad timing, mis-adjusted points, etc., this could lead to backfiring.

Those are for the reverse switch. If you don't have a copy of the FSM, it would be wise to download the 73 and 77. That way you also have information on your "new" transmission. By the way, since the wires are both female, I would just make a male-to-male jumper and coat it liberally with plasticoat or similar material to prevent corrosion.

According to page AT-51, the wires for the inhibitor switch are black with yellow stripes.

For the record, I have several of the FSMs on my computer for Z cars that I've never owned, and I will look up things for people, especially for the electrical systems. However, I would have to know the year of the car since I don't know the variances between the 280Zs very well. When asking for help we also can't guess what you've tried. Some people don't use the FSM as their first resource, and many don't know they are available in electronic form. That's part of why I put the links that I have in my signature. While I was shocked at your early response. I'm glad you reconsidered. I hope you will become another active member of the forum.

Have you tried looking in the factory service manual for the year of your Z? Also, I suggest posting the year of your car when asking for help. It helps in identifying variations that happen between different model years.

I had issues with the 11 inch end when I replaced the belts in my 240. That's why I opted for the additional hardware kit. I didn't find the need to alter anything by using that.

That could be a function of your alternator output. Make sure the alternator belt is tightened to the proper spec and that the engine is idling at the proper speed. Also corrosion in the circuits can rob them of just enough power that thermal flashers don't heat up as quickly, especially at idle speeds. That's a big reason why Fastwoman suggested an electronic flasher. They cost more, but they perform a lot better.

Actually you found a symptom that manifested itself as a loss of voltage. Why did something melt? Have you made any changes to the electrical system that could drive a higher current flow through that circuit?

If your switch is too far gone for Dave to fix, try contacting ZBarn for a used one. It's not that far away, and Roger is great to work with.