SteveJ

If you use Firefox, you can search multiple Craigslists by going to crazedlist.org. Search long enough, and you'll find some long-in-the-tooth beater on its last legs.

The roadster style belts from WESCO (part WELR-N) have two mounting points. You mount the retractor on the ceiling behind the seat, and the other end mounts on the floor. It extends easily with little-to-no binding, yet the inertia locks will grab quickly in panic stops to minimize the chances of you eating your steering wheel. As Trevor mentioned, you'll need a couple of washers or a flat metal spacer to allow the retractor to swivel without tearing up your interior plastic. Mounting is very easy, too. If you do decide to go this route, I recommend the 11 inch inboard belts and mounting hardware.

Definitely, but all of you are welcome to come join the Georgia Z Club at the next Mitty. It's the first weekend in May.

You could just buy a piece of flat steel and drill a couple of holes it in. That would give you better strength than a piece of metal that has been bent and straightened. By the way, check your existing mounting holes. A 1971 240Z with non-retracting seatbelts may not have two threaded holes on the floor for mounting a seatbelt like the one you linked. The WESCO roadster style that Trevor and I used would not have that problem. Also, one of the drawbacks of the style you linked is that it tends to bind easily. I mounted WESCO seatbelts similar to that one in my 240Z. I don't like those nearly as much as I like the ones I mounted in the 260Z. Feel free to send me a PM with your phone number if you'd like to talk about seatbelts some more.

Well, I saw a couple of familiar faces there. I wanted to do one of the blind rallies that the ZCCNV did, but I didn't think my beat-up 240Z would go over too well for that.

If I get my 260Z back in time, I hope to take it to the next club meeting. That way you could take a look at how I mounted the belts.

Yes, I did. It makes the inboard portion easier to mount.

Search is your friend...

Look at this thread to find a color version of the 78 wiring diagram. It could prove helpful to you.

Thanks for the link. The visual reference helped a lot.

Bring it to the next Georgia Z Club meeting.

Cool, I hope to see you at the next meeting. If I can get my 260Z over to Eddie to do some work, I may even drive it there.

That's worth a video. Any chance of you having a camera to show off the technique?

I have to admit that I just used weatherstripping from JC Whitney. It sealed nice and tight. It won't do if you're restoring to original, but it worked great for me. What were the part numbers on the bags? Were they NOS?

You ought to come out for a Georgia Z Club meeting sometime. The next one is Dec 2. Go to the website in the links below for details.

What carburetors are you running? I think this thread might be helpful. Scroll down to where it goes to talking about throttle linkages.

What rule book do you want to go by? SCCA? NASA? What class are you shooting for? When you say you have a car being built to race vintage, again, by what rules? Be specific or you can't get good recommendations. Also what type vintage racing?

Step #2 Buy a good quality multimeter that will measure up to 10 Amps of current. (I suggest looking at Fluke meters.) If you don't know how to use a multimeter, research it online. There are plenty of websites that will tell you how to use one. A good meter can help you determine whether or not the electrical system is messed up and how bad off it is. The wiring diagram from the FSM will help you in diagnosing the electrical system. If you are already adept in electrical matters, then the advanced advice is to get an oscilloscope. You can buy one for less than $200 that uses your computer as a monitor. That can help you with diagnosing issues with your fuel injection. Also in support of Step #1, look on eBay often. FSMs pop up from time-to-time.

You may need to disassemble and clean the combo switch. If you don't feel like doing it yourself, contact Dave, aka Zs-ondabrain. He will do it for a reasonable fee.

Be sure your fuse contacts are clean. Your combo switch may be dirty, too. Dave, aka Zs-ondabrain, will take apart and clean your combo switch (and turn signal switch). He's got plenty of experience and a good reputation for it, too. Look for Caig Deoxit at Radio Shack. Lots of people swear by it for cleaning electrical contacts. As for the dash lights, dim lights are a common complaint. Search on this site for plenty of threads about replacing the bulbs or taking off the green covers.

Check your running lights. I believe they are on the same fuse, too, at least from what I can tell from a cursory look at the 78 wiring diagram. If your running lights are good, but your dash lights are out, you need to check the rheostat for the dash lights. A quick test is to unplug the rheostat and jumper the black wire to the red wire with blue stripe. If your dash lights come on, it's your rheostat. I have no idea about whether or not the rheostat can be cleaned or repaired.

For a collector, it could be worth $20K. I'd just hate having a car that I'd be afraid to drive. On the other hand, there's a $5K 78 near me that would tempt me if I could convince She Who Must Be Obeyed...

Sweet, but not $20K sweet to me. I'm too tight-fisted with my money.

http://www.zbarn.com

This thread may help with the identification: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20774