SteveJ

Someone reported these as being dimmable. I can't remember if it was @cgsheen1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B9MGSX7K Update: It was @kully 560 who used them.

I'm up in the northeast corner of Forsyth County near Lake Lanier.

Love it! I hit 30 years of Z ownership in June.

Maybe my message got him looking. I'm glad you're getting taken care of.

I just reached out to Hung Vu on FB. He's having supply chain issues with the supplier.

You will need a decent multimeter to diagnose this problem. Here is what I suggest doing. Put your meter on resistance. Take a reading from the terminal on the sending unit (with the wire unplugged) to ground. I like using a stud on the driver's side strut as the grounding point. Do this with the engine stone cold. Get the car up to temperature. Take another resistance reading on the sending unit. If the resistance hasn't dropped significantly, either you are doing it wrong, or the sender is bad. With the wire to the sending unit still off, turn the key to ON. Put your meter on 1 Amp current. (10 A if 1 A isn't available. Put the negative lead on the sending unit. Put the positive lead on the wire that goes to the sending unit. The current reading should be dancing. (If you look through my videos on YouTube, you'll see a demonstration of this. My channel name is MyZCarLife.) If the current reading isn't dancing, you need to inspect your wiring. Do these steps first and report back. Then I can write up the rest. Please create a signature with the year of your car. That way I can provide instructions specific to the year of your car for the next phase if necessary. (I know it's in the subject line, but sometimes I have a lot of tabs open and can't see the subject.)

Well, if you're going to be that way, try this page. https://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/YPC/ypc.html

I believe it's this one. http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/80

Okay, you guys have my attention now. Thanks, @kully 560 & @HusseinHolland!

It doesn't seem to be an impedance mismatch

It wasn't that long ago that I made the video. I'm pretty sure I talked about the vacuum control and where it went.

@HusseinHolland If you go to my YouTube channel (myZcarlife), I have a short video where I show the features of the stock AC controls/evaporator. If your system doesn't have those features, it's not stock.

Since you're going down that path... Most non-industrial facilities in the US are bringing in 208VAC (two phases off a WYE transformer). At the entry point for the facility (service entrance), there is a neutral (return path) bonded to ground. That is put in the circuit with one of the legs of the 208VAC to provide 120VAC. In Canada, instead of using 480VAC as low voltage, they use 600VAC. The fun part is to source parts in North America for equipment to ship to a 50Hz country since almost everybody in North America publishes specifications for 60Hz. The most fun was a project where all of the equipment downstream operated at 60Hz. The generators operated at 60Hz, and it was being installed in Europe. They had to place equipment in between the utility and our equipment to go from 50 to 60Hz. Ships have to deal with this, too. For instance, the US Navy ships are designed to support voltage and frequency used in America. When they get shore power while docked in foreign ports, they have to have the frequency converters between the shore and ship. Going back to @chaseincats (to pretend that this rambling is still a little on topic), as @Racer X explicitly said, match impedance between the stereo and speakers. Mismatched impedance will work, but not as well.

The early 260Z has the same dash as the 280Z, as indicated here: https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-260z-280z/2-seater/instrument-dash-side The 73 240Z dash is different from the earlier dashes.

Yes

Does the stereo manual specify 4 or 8 ohm speakers?

When @240260280 was showing me how to adjust the valves, some were so tight that we both were pulling on it to break it loose.

Heck, you could drive up to my neck of the woods and use my 20T arbor press.

If you're getting a steady medium to bright light off a test light, yes.

What exactly are you trying to do? It sounds like you're looking for a non-existent problem.

Not specific to @HusseinHolland's question, but the valve used by @Captain Obviousdoes appear to be from a 2000 Acura TL. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6636476&cc=1361090&pt=6860 As for the dead photos, blame Photobucket. Now @Mike generously hosts more photos on the server so we can include images that aren't dependent upon outside services.

FYI: They are available via Rockauto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/stabilus,3B250273,lift+support,1404

Then the car is not the problem. It's either a component (stereo or speaker) or wiring issue.

Do you have the problem when the key is in the accessory position?

The $29 must have been in Canadian dollars. 😉