SteveJ

Great, now I am compelled to find the footwell light wiring in my car.

Yes, it is the same.

Okay, after looking at the wiring diagrams, I can say with fair certainty that your switch isn't the issue, even if it's from a 73 240. By the way, here is the legend that Nissan used in the manuals. B - Black G - Green L - Blue R - Red W - White Y - Yellow The first color is the main color of the wire and the second is the stripe (if any). Let's use that convention since it will match up to the drawings. Refer to pages BE-14 and BE-16 from the factory service manual. I'll trace out the circuit for you. Follow along on those pages. The positive wire from the battery goes to the W wire at the starter. The W wire goes through the fusible link to the shunt. Out of the shunt, it is WR. The WR goes throught connector C-6 into the body harness and on to the fuse box. It goes through a 20A fuse and out to the GL wire. The GL wire goes back through connector C-2 and over to the connector at the combination switch at the steering column and into the switch. The wire comes out of the switch GW. It should split once with one branch going to the parking lights and the other going to the dash lights. The branch going to the parking lights should branch again between front and back. The GW wire goes out to the bulbs and back to ground through a B wire. For the dash lights, the GW wire branches to each bulb in the light string and comes out RL. The RL wires join together at the rheostat and from there, goes out a GW wire to ground in a B wire through C-4. Unless someone crossed wires in the dash harness, I can't see how the dimmer switch could affect your parking lights.

Good news. The ring and locking plate are the same as for the 240Z as your car. The locking plate part number is 17343-14801. The O ring part number is 17342-18000. If you can wait, try contacting Courtesy Parts or nissanparts.cc for them. They are a lot cheaper than other sources if the parts are still available in the Nissan supply system.

The listing says new, but they are about as new as I am.

Wow, they dried up finally? I'm glad I got mine when I did. By any chance, have you tried Nissan? Part number 26740-89904. Try Courtesy Parts or Nissanparts.cc

Phil, was that from the project that was posted at zcar.com?

The 74 headlight switch has one nine-pin connector (parking lights and wiper). It also has single connectors for a black wire (ground), white/red wire (power coming in for the headlights and parking lights/dash lights), and red wire (headlight power to the fuses). There is also a black wire (ground) with a connector that allows two wires to be plugged into it independently. If you really think your headlight switch is hosed, you can actually still buy a new one. Rockauto has them for $157. I have one in my 260Z. Compare it to yours: More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS HLS1026. First verify that you have a good, functional switch. Inspect the nine-pin connector closely. That's the one for the parking lights, and I have seen signs of overheating there. What are the wire colors going into the unplugged connector? Be sure to download the 74 FSM from the link below. The BE section does a very good job of breaking down the circuits for you to troubleshoot. In particular focus on pages BE-10 (headlights), BE-14 (parking lights), and BE-16 (dash lights). After comparing what the manual says to what you see, post your findings and questions, and we can probably give you a path from there.

Here's a picture from the parts catalog along with the 240Z/260Z fuel tank for reference. I have replaced the sender on a 260Z without dropping the tank, and the sender on the 76 is in a similar location.

No they are easy to replace. Remove the right rear tire and access panel. You should have a direct shot at it from there.

They are fun cars, but I've heard that replacing the apex seals is a royal pain.

I believe the stock studs for the lug nuts are 12 x 1.25 mm.

I cleaned up a friend's early hazard switch last night. Here's a link to my write-up and pictures. I hope it helps someone.

How dry is the sand? You might need to bake it before using it to drive out the moisture. That could keep it from clogging.

I think you may be on to something. God, I hate the "improvements" made by idiot previous owners.

Diagnose first. Then figure out the parts to buy. It's a lot cheaper that way.

Okay, so now do a little searching on how to set up SU carburetors. Also consider buying the videos from http://www.Ztherapy.com. Site member Bruce Palmer is the salesman for them. Come on, Bruce . This is your cue to jump in!

I was wrong. My 73 has springs, not webbing. According to the parts catalog, there were several seats, but one of the change dates appears to be 12/71, so during the 72 model year.

I do believe that is incorrect. I will check on my 73 if/when I get home.

Boy, this thread ended up in the crapper.

What is the fuel pressure on the rail?

13 mm box end wrench...13 mm pass-through socket. Those tend to be able to fit best on my 260Z. It's slow going, but as mentioned in post #2, just leave the seatbacks on and pull the seat out the door. Keep track of the spacers, too.

What year Z? Does it have carburetors or fuel injection? Has someone done a turbo swap?

He does not have a hot startup problem. That is why I suggested he follow up on what others suggested about the AAR. Unfortunately, Nathan hasn't indicated whether or not he as tried the diagnostics in the FSM.

I wasn't thinking in that direction per se, but I did start my own blog a month ago, publicizing it in my signature and on FB. I plan to use it to capture what I've learned about the 240Z & 260Z electrical systems and to document with pictures car related experiences. I have linked to Phil's tech tips and other sites I think are useful, too. The advantage is that it is there for people all over the world to find. I don't have to hold to any publishing schedule, and I can promote it when and how I see fit. In the end, I can see websites like that providing a lot more to the community than a quarterly magazine that goes out of business every 3 to 5 years.