SteveJ

Mike, thanks for adding your input. I totally misread the initial post. Yes, the side markers are part of the taillight circuit. Somehow I got it into my head he was talking about the turn signals. If it is the parking lights, that is on page BE-13.

I'm glad you like my advice. I'm full of it...Hmm, that didn't sound right. Anyway, if it's not corrosion, I suggest a divide and conquer approach for narrowing down a short. Break the circuit into three sections: front, back and dash. That would be at connector C-3 and at the turn signal switch. Test each of them for a short by checking resistance from the positive side of the circuit to the chassis ground. Take the bulbs out to prevent false positives. Report the resistance readings if it's not obvious where you should go next.

Okay, I had to look. I can't find the Lockworks brand mentioned in the linked post, but searching for door locks for an 81 Maxima on Autozone came up with Locksmart DL47010.

There are several points where you can break the circuit. HOWEVER, before you do that, check all of the sockets on that side for corrosion. That is very common on our old cars. Clean out the corrosion as needed and coat with dielectric grease to reduce the chances of it coming back. After that go to the FSM. Look in the BE section, especially focusing on BE-10. That breaks down the circuit and gives you an idea of where all of the connections are. Please use an ohmmeter to find the short. Jumpering out the fuse can cause an electrical fire. The way short circuits typically develop (not all inclusive): 1. Corrosion in the sockets 2. Bad rewiring 3. Rubbing or other degredation in the insulation (Other degredation can include heat from the environment or electrical current.) 4. Working on another component and damaging the wiring.

Frankly, I don't remember seeing a return spring on either my 73 or 74.

Dielectric grease to hold the ball in place - and only a tiny dab.

Turn signal switches can be had at a reasonable cost. I have a big box of them. All they need is for me to tag & test them. Unfortunately the pot metal is an issue. I don't have any broken switches handy to try to engineer a solution. (By the way, if any of you have a broken switch to donate to the cause, I will take it.)

Also Hazard Switch ? Brake Light ? Turn Signal Circuit Analysis | Fiddling With Z Cars Early Hazard Switch | Fiddling With Z Cars Turn Signal Repair | Fiddling With Z Cars

Another alternative is to tap the end of the wrench with a brass hammer.

Based on a thread over at zdriver.com, Robert has an automatic. I suggested there that he look at the neutral safety switch as a possible culprit.

Look at page ER-3 in the 74 FSM and ER-4 in the 75 FSM, that gives you a general idea. The problem with following the FSMs is that most cars have the engine slingers removed. They were located on the front passenger side and rear driver side. IIRC, there is a threaded hole in the head for the front one, and the rear one was on the back stud for the exhaust manifold.

He's referring to the ignition switch. They do wear out. Fortunately you can replace the back part of the switch without replacing the whole assembly.

It's not a fuse. It's a fusible link. Look here to see what I am talking about. It's the part that looks like a piece of wire in the first listing. I apologize. I didn't realize you drove on the wrong side of the road. While the FSM on XenonS30.com is oriented to the North American market, it does have a wiring diagram for non-North American cars. The hazard switch on that one is a little different. The hazard switch should be between the steering wheel and the center stack on the dash. Just look at the placement on the North American cars and do a mirror image. It should be in about that place. You may need to ask another Aussie about that.

I have a set in the garage. Tell me what dimensions you want to know about, and I'll take measurements.

It was a glorious morning for Caffeine and Octane. The lot was overflowing. I got there early to reserve spots for the S30s (though there was one S130 that parked with us). The great thing about the collection of S30s there today was the variety of engines in them including stock, stroker, L28ET, SR20DET, and LT1. Enjoy the pictures. Caffeine and Octane April 2013 | Fiddling With Z Cars

There HAS to be a wire going from the battery to the starter. Then there should be a fusible link wire between the starter and the wiring harness. The only way you don't have wiring like I described is if someone hacked/replaced the wiring harness or if you don't have a 240Z. By the way, no brake lights and no turn signal point the hazard switch as the most likely culprit.

First, when you changed to the internally regulated alternator, did you remove the voltage regulator and put in the jumpers (http://www.zhome.com/Care/Altwire.htm) or MSA/Dave Irwin plug for the internally regulated alternator to work? Edit: I forgot to add, once you get your car charging properly, diagnose your turn signals using this link as a guide.

I haven't had any problems. I can't remember what all I've ordered that way. It's about like using RockAuto.

I only bought a battery powered sawzall a few months ago myself. When you mentioned rust in the earlier reply, I figured it was a long shot anyway. Thanks.

Darrel, is there any chance that the passenger side dogleg was in good shape? If so, is there any chance of you getting it for me?

This isn't too surprising... Picked Clean: If You Want 240Z Parts, You Need To Work Fast! | The Truth About Cars

I would drop that down to 10A. The pump shouldn't draw that much to start.

Measure continuity on the lowest resistance setting. Touch the leads together to see what the internal resistance is for the meter, then measure the two points. Subtract the internal resistance from your reading. It should only be a couple of tenths of an ohm.

Have you downloaded the FSM? If not, it would benefit you to do so. While the fuel pump wiring is not in there, it does have a wiring diagram for the rest of the electrical system. The tachometer does not trigger anything. Also, make sure you do the tests I listed earlier. The components must be functional for the fuel pump to get power.

The second relay is only energized when the alternator is putting out enough voltage. That is the engine is running and turning the alternator fast enough for the alternator to energize the coil. I was wrong earlier. It wasn't a PDF. It was a JPG. Here is the thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/47253-fuel-pump.html.