SteveJ

Thank you for the clarification. From your description, I would suspect one of two things is happening. 1. The switch on the back of your ignition switch is going bad. 2. You are getting feedback through the ballast resistor that is going through the ignition switch. The fixes for each would be 1. Replace the igntion switch. 2. Put a diode on the Black/Blue wire to prevent it from feeding back. How good are you with an electrical meter? I can tell you how to test.

What exactly did you jumper, and where did you get your guidance? Really, you only need to jumper the emergency switch under the hood.

Saw it. Threw up in my mouth.:sick:

I sent a PM to Joe Travis (GeoJoe). He can put you in touch with John Williams. I'm guessing John has several.

On numerous occasions I have suggested removing the rotor. Thirty years ago, my family had to park our car in a hotel parking garage in SF. My brother pulled the rotor as an anti-theft measure. The car was always in the same place as we parked it.

The G/L wire comes off the fusebox. It's the wire that carries 12VDC+ to the switch. It should be hot all of the time. The switch then makes contact between the G/L & G/W wires. The G/W wire then carries the voltage to the light.

Nissan still has nuts...er...wiper nuts.

I elected to go a different route. The coil will be powered off of the ignition switch. I'm going to wire this buzzer through the normally closed contact and power the buzzer off of the running lights circuit.

Sorry, all I have is a 73. I can't guarantee compatibility.

Keep in mind that it was a lighter than normal turnout. You should have seen the crowds in the previous three months.

Does your car have the factory designed electric fuel pump modification installed? If so, using an internally regulated alternator without removing the wiring for the fuel pump relay will cause the relay to be energized all of the time. This could cause your battery to drain if the car sits for an extended period of time.

If you choose to put in an internally regulated alternator, you will need to purchase an oil pressure switch to control power to your electric fuel pump. In the 260Z, the power for one of the fuel pump relays comes from between the alternator and the voltage regulator. You would have to re-wire that to prevent your fuel pump relay from being energized all of the time.

Being the first of the month and right after Thanksgiving, the crowd at Caffeine & Octane was pretty light. There were only three S30s there today. I did get the chance to share a couple of Z car stories, though. A car day is ALWAYS a good day. Enjoy the pictures: Caffeine & Octane ? December 2013 Edition (340 pictures) | Steve's CARtography

Carl Beck knows Andy, though. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-general-discussions/31481-finding-old-friend-its-small-world.html

First, post the part number for the Flamethrower. That goes with what Mitchell posted. Next, get the engine to TDC and check the distributor position. That's your zero point for timing. After you establish zero, you can have more confidence in establishing your timing properly. I get the feeling that your plug wires were off at 35 degrees. After you get the timing right, you can establish whether or not you have a good spark. Then you can look to see if you have any fuel issues.

Depressurize the fuel rail and install an inline fuel pressure gauge.

Why would you salt roads? Don't worry guys. I'll be driving the Z to Caffeine & Octane on Dec 1 provided it's not raining. The current forecast is good, too. I hope you guys have good project lists for your Zs so you don't neglect them over the winter.

Yeah, I think Vintage Connections has been mentioned once or twice before here... https://www.google.com/search?q=vintage+connections+site%3Aclassiczcars.com&oq=vintage+connections+site%3Aclassiczcars.com&aqs=chrome..69i57.8195j0j8&sourceid=chrome&espv=210&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8

There isn't an environmental reason for having higher octane gas available. Higher octane gas is used to allow cars to have engines with higher compression with less chance of detonation. To very much oversimplify emissions: NOx - This is more of a function of temperature. If your mixture is too lean, it will increase combustion temperatures. CO - This is more a function of mixture. If the mixture is too rich, there is not enough oxygen to form carbon dioxide. The smog pump on early Z cars basically pumped extra air into the exhaust to allow combustion to complete. Hydrocarbons - This is a function of mixture and timing. If the timing is too advanced or retarded, you do not give the engine the chance burn the fuel properly. Note: in the descriptions of the three main emissions components, I did not mention octane. When you have the engine too far advanced for the octane rating of the fuel, you increase the chance for detonation because the fuel will tend to burn faster in the cylinder, increasing the chance that the combustion gasses have expanded a lot more as the piston is still rising. Hell, if your compression ratio is high enough, you can ignite the mixture without have a spark plug (research a diesel engine). By the way, tetraethyl lead is a great additive to raise octane levels. I wouldn't consider it environmentally friendly though.

Actually, he said nothing about the quality of gas. He mentioned different octane ratings. There are some cars out there that will have better performance with higher octane fuels. They generally have knock sensors to signal the ECU to retard timing when lower octane fuel is used. The owners manual has the recommended octane rating for our cars. Using a higher octane fuel will not change the cars performance, unless you are paying for gas in nickels. In that case, you'll be carrying around fewer nickels after buying the higher octane fuel. There are a LOT of variables that can affect the performance & (perceived) gas mileage: mixture, tire pressure, winds, traffic, traffic lights, driving style, how full the tank is, etc.

What is the fuel pressure?

And what's your point?

With all of the environmental regs in California, why do you think gas would be cheaper? Did the one Chevron plant ever get back up to capacity after the fire? I doubt there will be a new refinery constructed in California in my lifetime. Plus those gas stations have to pay for the real estate they are sitting on. While they make most of their money off of candy bars & slurpees, the gas sales have to contribute to paying for the overhead.

You're right. I missed that. The turn signal switch would account for that better.

Search for body plugs. Just measure the size of the holes. I know I have some hiding in my garage.