SteveJ

Excellent information. We can work with this. I'll take a look at the wiring diagrams and see if I can give you some more to look for. That is unless BeerManPete doesn't beat me to it.

Unfortunately that's too far for me.

What is the current rating on the fan? That will determine the wire size. The wire size will determine the fuse size. You will want a thermostatic switch for the fan. Wire an SPST relay to the ignition circuit. Pole 85 gets the 12VDC+. Pole 86 goes to ground. Pole 87 gets power from the battery (Put an inline fuse between the battery and the relay close to the battery.), and pole 30 goes to the positive on the fan. The negative side of the fan gets wired to the thermostatic switch, and the other side of the switch goes to ground.

There are plenty of parts links on my blog. Courtesy Nissan has been pretty good to me over the years.

Use resistance to test. Don't trust the beeping. Let's think about why fuses blow. They blow because they have too much current flowing through them for the timeframe they are designed for. The fuse blows to protect the wiring from burning up. Why was there too much current? Refer to Ohm's Law. I (current) = V (voltage) divided by R (resistance). Voltage is roughly constant at around 12 volts, give or take a couple of volts. For a 10A fuse, if the resistance on the circuit drops below 1.2 Ohms, you are getting to the limits of the fuse. (This is why I look at resistance and not continuity.) Beware of autoranging meters, too. All of the sudden the scale could change from Ohms to milliOhms. So, what causes the low resistance? Of course, the obvious is a dead short. Corrosion in bulb sockets can bridge the gap between positive and negative. Also, a relay coil's insulation could break down, bypassing windings and dropping the resistance. The ignition coil could fail in a similar manner. Abrasion in insulation could allow a small area to come into contact with the chassis ground. So, let's work on the diagnostics. (By the way, I spent about two hours today tracking down a short in control wiring for some electrical gear. Even with experience, it can take time.) Can you post pictures of the fuse and wiring in question? I'm tired right now and can't picture it in my mind. I especially want to see where the fuse is. Are you talking about the one in the fusebox? Look for any wiring that may not be factory. Look for splices, electrical tape, etc. Post pictures of those anomalies, and give a description of where you find them in the harness. Maybe Saturday, I can finally look at the wiring diagrams and give you some other points for testing. I hope this helps.

What part of Atlanta?

I believe Dorman 611-254 lug nuts or 611-174 lug nuts. If you need the studs, look for 12mm x 12.5, though I'm not sure of the length.

If you had of posted this a couple of weeks ago, I would have tried to help you when I was in LA.

Ztherapy Rockauto Rockauto Courtesyparts.com (get the part number from carpartsmanual.com) Amazon Blackdragon What part of the door locks? You'll probably have to go to ZCarSource or ZSpecialties ZSpecialties ZCarSource or ZSpecialties Courtesyparts.com (get the part number from carpartsmanual.com) Don't forget the O-ring gasket and locking ring. MSA (zcarparts.com) ZCarSource or ZSpecialties

My last purchase from SuperbrightLEDs included some of these: 1157 LED Bulb - Dual Intensity 1 x 3 Watt High Power LED w/ Reflector Lens | S series | Specialty & Automotive | Universal LED Bulb Finder | Super Bright LEDs They are rated at 105 lumens. I felt they were reasonably priced, and they seem to provide good light. For the single element sockets, a bulb like this: 1156 LED Bulb - Single Intensity 1 x 3 Watt High Power LED w/ Reflector Lens | S series | Specialty & Automotive | Universal LED Bulb Finder | Super Bright LEDs may work well. They are 100 lumens I think those bulbs could be too tall for the side markers, though. Mind you, light output is proportional to voltage. Buying and installing the harness upgrades that Dave Irwin mentioned earlier can improve light output.

Why are you worried about having them too bright? What is too bright?

Hazard Switch ? Brake Light ? Turn Signal Circuit Analysis | Fiddling With Z Cars If it's two out of three bulbs on the right, it's likely to be grounding issues. You can unplug the connector on the light and check the wiring harness to ground. Use the drawing in the link above to find the ground wire. I see that I need to revise it to include the turn signal indicators in the tach. The socket for the right turn signal indicator may not be seated properly.

I think he's talking about the wipers parking in the up position.

So did you sell off your collection of Celicas?

Here's a link to the file if you want it. http://xenons30.com/files/1973%20240z%201974%20260z%20fuel%20system%20modifications.pdf

Nothing. It wasn't a Nissan design.

I used them in the tach, clock, and ammeter/fuel gauge so far. I've been too lazy to change out the others. I'd have to search my garage for the others. Unfortunately I won't be able to do that for a couple of days.

SuperbrightLEDs.com has a nice selection of BA9 bulbs. They also have dimensions for the bulbs to make sure they fit. I put some in my 260Z and was pleased with the results.

The yellow wire is also the power for one of the coils for the electric fuel pump. Leaving that relay in will cause a battery drain if you go to an internally regulated alternator.

Send a PM to Zs-ondabrain, aka Dave Irwin. He might have a good hazard switch. I know he wouldn't sell you a bad one. They can also be cleaned up. This is what I did with an early style hazard switch: Early Hazard Switch | Fiddling With Z Cars

Not necessarily. Sometimes there is corrosion in the light sockets themselves. If the corrosion bridges the gap between the positive and negative, it will act similar to a short. Also look for splices in the wiring where you or a previous owner added something. To get a better handle where the issue resides, use the FSM. Go to the BE section. You want pages BE-15 and BE-17. 1. Remove the fuse. It is the 20A fuse in the top right slot. You will need a way to test for a short. Method 1: Use an ohmmeter to measure from the right fuse clip to ground. Method 2: Use a test light in place of the fuse. When the light is on, you have a short. 2. Turn on the lights to the running light position. 3. Use Method 1 or 2 to see if there is a short. 4. If so, disconnect connector C3. 5. Measure for a short. If there is no short, the problem is between connector C3 and the taillights or radio or heater control panel light or hazard switch illumination light or automatic transmission indicator light. (Note: if there is still a short, we haven't eliminated those circuits. We will confirm later.) 6. If there is still a short, disconnect connector C5. 7. Measure for a short. If there is no short, the problem is between connector C5 and the front marker lights/turn signals. 8. If there is still a short, it is between the switch and the dash lights. 9. If there is no short in step 8, reconnect C3 and retest to make sure you don't have two branches with short circuits. Let us know what the results are with steps 3, 5, 7, and 9. Then I can give you more diagnostics.

Look at the first generation Nissan Slyvia, then look at the concept cars.

But do they turn in the same direction?

Well, at least use your daily driver to come visit us at C&O tomorrow.

Mike, the user edesonwright is a spammer, too. I'm not sure whether or not it's a bot.