SteveJ

I should have said "TDC on the compression stroke". If the distributor is pointing at #1 at TDC on the compression stroke, the distributor cannot be 180 out. (Sorry about the scattered info. I should have posted this all together.) Do you have the stock points or an electronic ignition? If stock, did you set the points? Are the points new? Have you compared how your distributor looks at TDC with pictures from this site? I'm sure Blue has posted some. How did you verify spark? How about posting pictures of 1. your coil & ballast resistor 2. your distributor with cap and rotor removed 3. your cap inside & out (wires off) 4. your rotor.

1. Make sure the distributor is pointing to cylinder 1 when the engine is at TDC. 2. Make sure the wires are in the correct order: 1-5-3-6-2-4 CCW. 3. Make sure the distributor is not 180 degrees out.

Greg, I wouldn't send you on a wild goose chase. You just have to use the menus at the top of the page. They work. http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html.

Greg, Download a copy of the 76 FSM from http://www.xenonZcar.com and go to the RA section. Could you identify what page in the FSM has the area in second photo? By the way, you're a braver man than I am if you're willing to go under the car with jackstands on gravel.

Do you have relays for your headlights? If not, you'll be pumping close to 20A through your headlight switch when you go to high beams. I wouldn't do that.

The smoke is probably from the PCV. Did anybody notice the sparks that accompanied the smoke? The stock PCV hoses had flame arrestors. Download the FSM from http://www.xenonZcar.com and read through the engine, engine fuel and emissions sections. The flat top carburetors are tuned differently from the older SUs.

With that air dam, the owner would have to relocate the turn signals to the grill. Jegs has a good price on a urethane air dam with free shipping.

http://www.amazon.com/Petersens-complete-Petersen-Publishing-Company/dp/0822750074 Also a poor quality PDF is here: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCwQFjACahUKEwjHj-zKv9THAhVGgj4KHQbmDzU&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdatsun510.com%2Fmanuals%2FComplete_Book_of_Datsun.pdf&ei=L-bkVYe8IcaE-gGGzL-oAw&usg=AFQjCNFYvk8VqkaUB9VLe6gHPlV2aF_WKg

I dunno about that. I'm thinking that Greg replacing some bad vacuum lines probably had something to do with the car running right.

Okay, so yesterday apparently went well. Greg was on hand as was Tony, a friend from the Georgia Z Club. Tony and Greg looked over the car, and then we got it up on ramps. (I can't say enough good things about Race Ramps.) Tony shot underneath and started draining the tank with some assistance from me while Greg worked on the temperature sender and sensor. After the tank was drained as much as we could, Tony was working on the lines in and out of the tank while I removed the trim work to get to the vent hoses on top. Tony got the straps loose and dropped the tank. We poured it out and saw some rust. Then we used some gasoline to slosh around the tank to get out any other loose rust we could. We didn't use anything to try to break it up because I didn't want to remove the sender out of fear of damaging the O ring or retaining ring. The couple of rinses with gas seemed to get some more rust out. We heard something rattling in the tank. I put a strong magnet near the drain hole to capture the rattling object, hoping it was ferrous. We lucked out. Tony plucked out a couple of links of some sort by using a magnetic reach. Greg realized he had some other parts at home that would prove useful to the cause and drove back to get them, stopping to pick us up some lunch on his way back. (Thanks, Greg. I normally don't stop to eat, so the burger was appreciated.) We got the tank back in, and Greg finished the under hood work. (Greg feel free to post details. I was so busy with the tank that I wasn't paying attention to what you were doing.) Among the parts Greg replaced were the PCV valve, connector for the temperature sensor, plenty of vacuum hose, filter on the carbon canister...What did I miss, Greg? We got everything buttoned up, and ready to run. The car refused to start and just backfired out the intake. After going over potential problems, we finally pulled the distributor, and turned it 180 degrees. The Z fired right up. Greg noticed some leaks around the thermostat, so he took it apart again to check assembly and torque. He got it buttoned up, and we got the Z running again. I constricted the return line some and noticed the car ran stronger. I dumped a full container of fuel injector cleaner into the tank, and the car seemed to start running a little bit better. Jai and I took it for a short test run, and we made it back fine. I suggested that the drive to church would be more of an acid test. It sounds like it passed that test today. If the injectors were gummed up some, maybe the fuel injection needed more pressure to get enough volume through the injectors. I'm hoping we made real progress.

Another Atlanta 260Z? Send me a PM to let me know where you are in the area. We have a pretty good early Z community around here.

Download the 77 manual from http://www.xenonZcar.com and go to section BF. It is described there.

More than just that, I would recommend a thermostat control. Using switched power is not that important for the thermostat circuit. I would run a circuit with the thermostat to operate the coil of the relay. Then at least a 10 gauge wire for the power to the fan. All circuits appropriately fused.

So do you have a mechanical fuel pump? You should unless you have a later head that doesn't have the port. Are you running SUs? If so, you don't need the electric fuel pump. You could bypass it. That's my plan for my 73. Why are you doing a Maxifuse conversion? You only have the one fusible link by the starter.

Post the year of your car in your post. The wiring will vary depending upon the year of your car.

As a matter of fact, that's what I used as my reference.

Just in case someone reads this thread, I bought these on Amazon. They arrived today, and I installed and adjusted them. The only drawback is that they are silent, so it might be easy to leave a blinker on. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011BTMDQM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

I decided to try adjustable flasher relays. I bought these on Amazon. They arrived today, and I installed and adjusted them. The only drawback is that they are silent, so it might be easy to leave a blinker on. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011BTMDQM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

I bought these on Amazon. They arrived today, and I installed and adjusted them. The only drawback is that they are silent, so it might be easy to leave a blinker on. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011BTMDQM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

From the FSM

bLue

RY - Headlight (Left) RL - Inspection Lamp GL - Front running lights (missing from plug) R - Headlight (Right)

I hope that we can maybe flush out enough of the crap to let you drive it if we can drop the tank.

Dang, you should have tried on my car in Memphis. I have the 240Z foam in my seats. It does cause some head bumping, and I'm a couple of inches shorter than you.

The same fuse as for your other instruments. It's the middle fuse on the left.