SteveJ

The PWMs that I ordered are 2 in and 2 out. I was thinking that the path to ground from the dimmer would be the negative in. The wire from the dash lights to the dimmer would be the negative out. The combo switch would be the positive in, and the wire going to the positive side of the dash lights would be the positive out.

I couldn't resist. I bought a couple of cheap PWMs via Amazon. Dammit, Bruce. You're going to get me in the doghouse because every time I see you experimenting, it makes me want to spend money to experiment on my own. It's all YOUR fault.

Posted on the wrong thread... All I can say is... What do you expect with a bunch of volunteer judges?

Many LEDs need PWM instead of pots for brightness control.

Fixed

I was told that Randy Pobst visited with some of my fellow GZC members at a Caffeine and Octane event earlier this year. I had a Datsun flag flying behind my car. It helps the Z crowd find us.

PM sent.

So, is the owner of this car on the board? https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/~/media/Images/Articles/2015/September/Elkhart%20Lake%20(27).ashx

Ethanol free gas is available in lots of places, including a couple of gas stations that are on my way to most of the places I go to. Look up http://www.pure-gas.org. There are even stations selling it in California...just not anywhere close to you.

You should have come down to God's country when I suggested it to you, Philip.

I won't be surprised if it's not a fuel delivery issue. I'll see if I can visit the car in person (in auto?) and verify.

What carburetors are you running? Will it start right back up? How long does it run? What ignition are you running? Does it still have both fuel pumps? I can't live that far away from you. I'm in NE Forsyth County, less than a mile from Lake Lanier.

If you're not using it as a daily driver, you might want to invite me over next weekend.

During a garage cleaning, I took the gaskets that seal the filter out of 3 73/74 air cleaners. Most were still in good shape. For the gasket along the edge of the air cleaner, I used some rubber rope from McMaster Carr.

Look at the FSM to make sure you get the correct rating for the link. I keep spares from Nissan in my glovebox.

https://www.google.com/search?q=fusible+link&oq=fusible+link&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.2207j0j7&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8

I heard back from the Amazon vendor who sold the 1157 sockets. They are out of stock but will inform me when they get more. I'll let everybody know.

I emailed the seller via Amazon to see if they might have more in a different listing. There is also this one on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/161422959685?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT It's two 1156 and 2 1157 sockets.

If you aren't EXTREMELY careful with the RTV, you could get it coming off on the inner side of the bead and plugging up an oil passage.

We're meeting up on the 19th up in Canton for the Po Boys car show. That's a week from Saturday. I sent you a PM. By the way, you can find all of the planned club events here: https://www.facebook.com/georgiazclub/events?key=events.

The inner U-joints looked fine when I was under your car. There wasn't any play at all. I'm going to pass your number along to Tim and do my best to make myself available when he's able to come up your way.

Is it truly ever "complete", or is it just at a really good stopping point?

Jai, I was helping Tim today, and he & I were working on a solution. Tim or another friend may have a differential mount we can use. Tim also has a car trailer. He said we can back the car onto the trailer and work through the gap. Tim can also negotiate with you about the 240Z. If you two can agree to a deal, he could pull it back with him.

Many people have converted their distributors to electronic ignitions or Pertronix igniters. You have stock-style points. Check the gap per page EE-28 of the 1973 FSM. I also believe that your coil is wired backwards. The positive terminal should have the black with white stripe wire (and the condenser). The negative side should have a ground wire that goes to the distributor. That shouldn't keep your car from running, but it will weaken the spark.

I should have said "TDC on the compression stroke". If the distributor is pointing at #1 at TDC on the compression stroke, the distributor cannot be 180 out. (Sorry about the scattered info. I should have posted this all together.) Do you have the stock points or an electronic ignition? If stock, did you set the points? Are the points new? Have you compared how your distributor looks at TDC with pictures from this site? I'm sure Blue has posted some. How did you verify spark? How about posting pictures of 1. your coil & ballast resistor 2. your distributor with cap and rotor removed 3. your cap inside & out (wires off) 4. your rotor.