SteveJ

No and not readily available. Chris used to post on here, but it's been quite a while since his last post.

The good Captain caught it. I was misled because you said it was a 73. Go here: http://zzxdatsun.com/catDecals.php The owner is good Z people. He only takes checks or cash. No credit cards. I've bought plenty of stuff from him and wouldn't hesitate to use him again.

That appears to be a 72 VIN. There is definitely something strange going on if it was titled as a 73. I would be surprised if an early 72 stayed on a dealer lot that it might have been titled as a 73.

Someone might have cut the firewall out of a wrecked car to replace a firewall rusted out from exposure to battery acid and clutch fluid.

Not enough information. Look at this for more information on Z car VINs: http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/zr/full.aspx?Page=11 Are the digits completely different between the firewall and the plates?

The answer lies in the type of socket and the colors of the wires running to it. Type 1157 sockets have three wires. Type 1156 sockets have two wires. On the left side of the car, if you see a green wire with a red stripe going to the socket, it will flash. On the right side of the car, if you see a green wire with a black stripe going to the socket, it will flash. On either side, if it's an 1156 socket with a green wire wire with a white stripe, it should not flash.

I have 16x7 wheels on my car. I know a guy running 15x8s, though I don't know if it has an offset.

If you really want to find it, you probably should post the name of your "friend" and the VIN. Otherwise a brown 78 is pretty darn generic.

If you need the part numbers, just buy the parts fiche CD from this site. There is also CarPartsManual.com. What concerns me is that parts that I believe are NLA are still showing up as available when I search.

More ZCon 2016 info: http://zcon.org/

I have never used them: http://www.ssnake-oyl.com/

Well, the Ontario Z Car website says 8/2-8/6. http://ontariozcar.com/ I sent a message to Mauricio Gomez to confirm - And he immediately replied that those are the correct dates.

Here's a link that shows one that I made: http://www.zcar.com/forum/2379714-post3.html

I have made a few of these. I don't think $60 is that high considering the cost of parts and labor to wire the base. I think I was charging $45 shipped in the US.

Jim, The article left out the ceremonial apologizing to the turkey and pig before they are slaughtered for the feast.

A friend reinforced his urethane air dam to prevent flexing too much. Some flex is good. It will keep the air dam from getting beaten up.

You had a couple of extra characters in the link. http://www.ztherapy.com/technical_stuff/spotterguides/zcar/240spotter.htm

That link gives a 404 error.

Maybe here: http://autoplicity.com/2768432-fuel-pump-spacer But I wouldn't be too confident. Maybe you guys should come over, and help me search my garage. I may have one lying about.

Curtis, Mr. Nix is just up the way in SC. I say we road trip to visit him after the floodwaters have receded. I'd like to take a look at the linkage just out of curiosity. What do you say, Steve? Do you allow miscreants into your garage?

Curtis, These search results may be helpful: https://www.google.com/search?q=Jaguar+SU+datsun&oq=Jaguar+SU+datsun&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.8735j0j7&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8

Ebay reviews aren't an accurate indicator of quality. Neither are anecdotal accounts. However, in threads where Al Allen has posted, people have raised questions on the quality of products they purchased from him. He has responded with silence. That in of itself would make me hesitate to buy from him. Also, there is the curious case that he has changed the name of his business several times. Al, if you are reading this, is there a reasonable explanation for that?

Non-standard relays. If one goes bad, good luck finding a replacement. It might be plug and play for a 240Z. It's definitely not for a 260Z or 280Z. I would just spend the extra money on Dave Irwin's design since it is SPECIFIC for a 240Z (or 260Z/280Z if you work with him).

Losing 2 volts is a significant drop. (http://www.headlightservices.com/Wiring.html has a graph for reference.) The drop is probably coming from the combo switch and all of the connectors between the battery, headlight, and ground. Any poor contact acts as a resistance. Resistance in serial drops voltage. Unless you or a previous owner installed relays, THERE ARE NO RELAYS. (I'm not sure who "they" are, either.) The FSM is perfectly clear how the wires run. The 74-78 manuals are great for breaking down the circuits in the BE section. You need to know how to read an electrical diagram to understand. Now, if you want to install relays, there are ways to do it. Probably the easiest for you would be to contact Dave Irwin, aka Zs-ondabrain via a PM. He can tell you what you need to do for him to make a relay set that will work for your car. (His kits are plug and play for the 240Z but require customization for the 260Z and 280Z.)

The nice thing is that the back is held on by screws, facilitating dissection...I mean...curiosity. Here's a link to the one I bought: http://www.amazon.com/niceEshop-Inline-Dimmer-Strips-Black/dp/B004T9ITQ0/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1443466233&sr=1-8&keywords=pwm+dimmer