SteveJ

I received a message from a friend today. He sent me this picture asking if it was my car. It got featured in coverage of The Mitty in 2016.

I sent you a PM on the subject.

Only because I was looking for links to a better synchrometer than a Unisyn. Jeez, get with the program and use a flow-through meter.

Look at vendors on my website http://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com Many of them have Christmas gift ideas (MotorSport Auto and ZCarDepot to name a couple). MSA has a fender cover with a Z emblem. A good timing light and a good multimeter are very useful. This multimeter can also be used as a tachometer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U3HFFH. That can be useful for tuning. Also a carburetor synchrometer is a must for the old SU carburetors: https://www.google.com/search?q=dellorto+syncrometer&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjj4fnXu4_YAhVK4IMKHZVpDLwQ_AUICigB&biw=1920&bih=949. Finally, videos from Z Therapy ( @Bruce Palmer) can help him keep his Z running in top shape. Don't forget feeler gauges for valve adjustments.

What I did was to build a bench that was about the height of the door sill. I could lie on my back and reach up to get those nuts. It was much more comfortable that way.

Leonard Nimoy did it best, IMHO. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TAPoNXrWNMc

That's in my neck of the woods. How about that? I'll have to remember that one.

Well, when we were transporting my new engine around, we used an old racing tire and strapped the engine down to the sides of the pickup bed.

That is correct.

Coolant goes through the extra holes.

The OP is looking for a part on the intake manifold. For more information, look here:

So does that mean you don't need the spare tire?

Yes, it's still snowing in my neck of the woods. I'll have to shovel my driveway and front walk since they aren't in the sun. Otherwise, almost all of it will be gone by Monday.

24 Hours of Lemons is at Road Atlanta this weekend, too. Not a good weekend for endurance racing in the South.

When I mounted an early 240Z bumper on my 73, I just had to get the early mounting brackets. They are available. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/32-1060 You'll also need spacers on the sides of the bumpers. I just found rubber bumpers on McMaster and trimmed them to the thickness I needed. More info here: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2014/01/20/installing-the-front-bumper/

By the way, there are several different part numbers flat top carburetors for the North American market. Some were used on the 240Z, and the others were on the 260Z. I cannot attest to the differences between the part numbers.

How about the Nissan factory parts manuals for North America? They clearly show the 3 types of carburetors and the timeframe of usage: 4 screw - through the 71 model year (ending Aug 71) 3 screw - for 72 only (Sep 71 to Jun 72) Flat top - for 73 Jun 72 to Aug If you don't have a copy of the factory parts manual, you can order an electronic version from the store on this website. Proceeds go to support the site.

Thank you for letting us know, Mike. R.I.P. Victor

I was thinking that a bad battery could deceive in diagnostics. Fortunately that was the case. Been there, done that, and wasted several hours tearing apart things until I realized I went down the wrong rabbit hole. (It was a bad battery.) Usually people who sound like they know what they are doing are educated by learning from all of their prior, painful mistakes. I am living proof.

The parts manual lists a cold weather 60A alternator with part numbers 23100-N3302 and 23100-N3303. I doubt you'll find rebuilt versions of these in American part stores. You're more likely to find a rebuilt version of 23100-P3006. This is the internally regulated alternator. So do any of our Canadian brethren have a cold weather alternator? They would have been in a 73-77 model year car.

I'm glad it just seems to be a bad battery that caused your problems.

The 60A model is likely internally regulated. If the OP installs it without jumpering out the external voltage regulator, he would be introducing a new set of problems.

Before we jumper out the fusible links, let's get some more readings with the meter. It's safer that way. I'll do my best to try to remember to write up some diagnostics for you. However, I recommend doing the troubleshooting with a fully charged battery. That way we are less prone to being deceived by low readings.

Questions: There are two fusible links. Did you only check one? Did you check on both sides of the link? Were the voltages the same? What is the voltage at the battery? At 10.3 volts, it looks like a bad battery or one in need of a good charging. What fuses did you check? Reference the attached picture. I am starting to wonder if you didn't blow out your ammeter. If you did that, you would not have power at key circuits in the car. Measure voltage to ground on both ends of the green fusible link (shown as #2 in the attached picture).

To elaborate on what Patcon said, a fusible link has thicker insulation than regular wire. It could burn up inside, and you might not be able to tell visually.