SteveJ

I'm glad it worked to your satisfaction, Ron. From the first of my research, I read that the LED color should match the lens color. I might have used some white LEDs in the center gauge pod, though. It's been long enough ago that I can't remember. The bottom line is that you will be able to see at night. I suggest that you replace the 20A fuse in the parking light circuit with a 10A fuse. The wiring wasn't really up to handling 20A, so if you get a short, you could melt wiring (or a connector) with the 20A fuse.

If you retard the timing too much, the engine won't run. You can run the car with the static timing at 30 degrees. It will ping like crazy if you aren't running racing gas...So I've heard from a friend.

While the tach is out, you could use a meter like this one to test the signal going to the tach. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002LZU7K or https://www.amazon.com/Mrcartool-Digital-Multimeter-500-10000-Temperature/dp/B07VKLKDZL Connect the positive lead to the blue wire and connect the negative to ground. Put the meter on 6 cyl and start the car. If the signal isn't consistent, then you have a different issue to track down. If the signal is good, your tach is going bad.

I just happened to remember the thread.

If the Speedhut gauge sensor is 1/8 NPT https://www.amazon.com/GlowShift-Female-Sensor-Adapter-Reducer/dp/B00NWZZBS6 or https://www.amazon.com/Fitting-Female-Metric-M16X1-5-Adapter/dp/B07GRT81L7 If the Speedhut gauge sensor is 1/4 NPT https://www.amazon.com/Fitting-Female-Metric-M16X1-5-Adapter/dp/B07HGVF2PY or https://www.amazon.com/Fitting-Metric-M16X1-5-Female-Adapter/dp/B07DJZKQHY

I believe it's the same as the 240Z.

He had several opportunities to practice his recoveries over the weekend.

Let's go for a ride.

Here's a quick video. My nephew was filming this at the last Mitty. Watch for the Alfa that's a few cars behind John Morton. I was closer to the turn and caught the same action from a different vantage point with my camera.

From the ZCON 2018 Judged Car Show: By the way, this video is available in 4K. If you can, watch it that way.

Actually it was 1999. That was the 4 cylinder Z concept. Nissan actually conducted a survey of Z club members back then. I did not give it a rave review. While I could tolerate the front (barely), the rear styling is horrid to me.

It looks familiar... I guess there's not too much that can be done with that shape.

I just put the rheostat on the lowest resistance, and I leave it there.

Are you referring to LED or incandescent bulbs for 5W draw from an 1156 bulb? Phillips lists the incandescent at 26.9W. The wattage of the different types of incandescent bulbs are listed in the spreadsheet I attached to the post in the other thread. There is not a ready replacement for the rheostat. The bulbs I used aren't overwhelmingly bright, so I have no need to dim them. If you replace the turn signal bulbs, you will need to replace BOTH flashers. I have been using these for 5 years: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011BTMDQM There is one on the driver side under the dash, and the other is on the passenger side.

The fuse is a current limiting device by definition. One of the problems with that circuit was that it was designed to have too close to 10A draw, so the engineers selected a 20A fuse to prevent nuisance trips. This gives the opportunity to build up more heat at the fuse clips. At close to 20A, that sucker will glow in the dark. I have seen it. Using the 10A fuse in conjunction with the other steps I listed will reduce the opportunity for heat to build up to the point of melting the fuse box. If the fuse is blowing at that point in time, it could mean it's time to clean the corrosion from the fuse box and light sockets again. For owners of 73 and later cars, there is another incentive to drop the fuse to 10A (after swapping over to LEDs). The gauge of the wire at the 9-pin connector on the combo switch is too small to support 20A of current. I had a short at one of the bulbs in the gauge light portion of the parking light circuit. Since the current in the short was too much for the wire, the 9-pin connector was damaged. A properly sized fuse (in this case 10A) would protect the wiring and connnectors.

You could try this bulb. It appears to have a low profile to fit under the green lenses. https://www.amazon.com/Grandview-Chipsets-Vehicle-Bright-Courtesy/dp/B01C2SHTZ6

The headlight relay harness does not impact the parking lights at all. I posted this a few years back: The best way to keep the circuit intact (IMHO): Change all of the exterior markers and interior dash bulbs to LEDs. (You will lose the dimmer function unless you change the rheostat to a PWM, but that's a topic for @Captain Obvious to describe.) Change the 20A fuse to a 10A fuse. (This limits the current and heat build-up.) Clean the contacts (front and back) on the fusebox. (This should get rid of hot-spots in your fusebox.)

What about 260Z/280Z taillights?

The blue wire is the tach sensing wire.

I have accessed the speedometer cable by removing the tachometer and reaching behind the speedometer. That way is probably the least amount of work.

This thread describes some of the differences: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/62919-260z-suspension-vs-240z-suspension/ Measure your rear strut tube diameter with a caliper. I can measure the ones on my 260Z for comparison.

Is the car from North America? Did the European 260Zs go through the same changes as the North American cars?

From The Far Side website today...Gary Larson called it 36 years ago.

This may help you. http://www.xenonzcar.com/z31/Wheels.html

On the other hand, I just came across this article: https://www.theguardian.com/world/2020/mar/14/anti-inflammatory-drugs-may-aggravate-coronavirus-infection It specifically says that acetaminophen is okay. Accurate information is difficult to come by in the fog of war.