SteveJ

Sure you can cut it out. It's your car. Will the car start without that? Did the car run when you bought it? We can't tell from the photos you posted what you have under the hood. Where else does it go to? It goes to the MS ECU, the fuel injectors, and the electric fuel pump. Do you have all of those components? If you want to go back to stock, I suggest you go to the downloads section on this website and download the factory service manual for the 71. Then start by reading through the EF section to familiarize yourself with the components you are missing.

I will add that the relay board certainly has seen better days. It should have been mounted inside the passenger compartment. The person who installed it chose a very poor location for mounting.

I looked at the other thread. It's not stock. It's a MegaSquirt relay board for fuel injection. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-relay-board-assembled-unit/

It's something a previous owner added. The pictures aren't that good of quality, but it looks like some plug-in relays and a terminal strip.

I would think it would work if you have the CG of the car in the right place, though you may have to contact the manufacturer to be sure. I'm sure my lift could do it, and it has the same rated capacity as that one. Would the open end be under the garage door? That could affect hood clearance if the hood was open. One other possible issue could be ground clearance between the bottom of the car and the lift. I have two 2x12s for my car to drive on to prevent scraping exhaust (2.5 inch) on the cross supports. The track of my lift is not nearly as wide as the Dannmar. For that matter, I'd have to wonder if the pads on the Dannmar would be hitting the pinch welds on the Z with the width of the lift.

The challenge with the last one is the piston in the middle. I say that having a scissor lift with a piston in the middle. It will interfere with oil changes and possibly oil pan and transmission work.

For me, I clicked on the photo and saved it to my computer. Then I opened up the saved picture and zoomed in.

Vacuum bottle for AC Transistor Ignition Unit AFM - I think Water temp switch - I think ??? ??? Dashpot - Maybe a vacuum advance Voltage regulator ??? Ignition coil ECU (Label says Part number A11-600-000) ??? AFM

We all have our ways of dealing with stress and grief. Frankly, I don't see how your way is creating an imposition on anybody. Just work through it.

To add to what @Zed Head said, the fusible link is like the main breaker in the service panel in your house. The main breaker protects the panel. For your car, the fusible link protects the white/red wire. The first thing I might suspect is the alternator could be shorted. I'm about to head out of the house, but I'll give you some diagnostics later.

Advance Auto: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web/SearchResults?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&langId=-1&searchTerm=fusible link wire O'Reilly lists bulk fusible link wire, but the store selector isn't working so I can't tell if they have it locally.

You should be able to use a ring lug and male lug as a short term. I would advise using fusible link wire in case you still have a short. Autozone lists it on their website. You may search others if they are closer. https://www.autozone.com/starting-charging-and-miscellaneous-electrical/fusible-link-wire/bussmann-14-gauge-fusible-link-wire/32375_0_0

That depends somewhat on the switch and wiring harness. On the early cars, the wiring was such that the headlight switch just completed the path to ground for the headlight circuit after going through the high/low beam switch. At some point (and I don't know exactly when), the wiring and switch changed such that the switch operated on the positive side of the circuit. I don't know what changes there were in the intermediate step between the early Zs and the 72 that drove the production of the E4602 switch. @Zs-ondabrain might be able to provide a little more detail.

Here are the part numbers for the headlight side of the combo switch. The challenge is that the one you need had the shortest production run.

I've started hiring myself out to members of our club for the simple (at least I think it's simple) wrenching and wiring needs of the S30s. I could probably do the S130s, too, if there was interest. Even in my mid-50s, I'm at the lower end of the age range in my club, so I help others keep their Z cars. So along @jonbill's suggestion, maybe if not a relative, a local club member might be willing to turn the wrenches for you, possibly for a reasonable fee.

Jim, this is from the parts catalog: So I would say the transition was around the model year change from 71 to 72.

There is this pricy option from BRE: https://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=B&Product_Code=020A04&Category_Code=bre_datsun_accessories

One of my friends has them. He said the passenger side is pretty much useless.

It could also be the ignition switch itself. This is why you need to own and know how to use a voltmeter. Check the voltage at the ballast resistor with the key in the ON position. One side should have voltage. Heck, even a test light would work for this.

How old are the fuel hoses? Cracked hoses can let air in.

Do you still have the electric pump at the fuel tank? Is it running?

Good point. The EGR was first seen on the 73.

From previous posts by @Awk34, it does appear as though he is running carburetors. I remember a few years back at a car show, a young man was asking me about what ECU I was running in my car when I was still using SUs. He didn't understand for a while that the car did not need an ECU for fuel or spark. Perhaps @Awk34 is trying to put a digital gauge in the car to replace the stock water temp gauge. If that's the case, I wonder if he wants to keep the oil pressure gauge. Remember the old days when most of the signals we used were 4-20mA or 0-10VDC?

Check all fuel lines from the tank to the nozzles in the SU to make sure there are no kinks that could restrict fuel flow. Check float levels. Make sure the vent line from the engine bay back to the tank is in good shape and will allow air into the tank as a vacuum will reduce fuel flow. Make sure the carburetors are balanced at idle and at 2000 to 3000 RPM. What block/head? What is the compression on the engine? The detonation could be a separate issue. It could even be crappy, low octane CA gas.

Shunt