SteveJ

Well, the intent was to test the EFI relay. Do you happen to have one of those that match the ones earlier in this thread?

Exactly. Does anybody have a spare Bosch relay they want to send me for testing?

The chances are that if it is in the Nissan relay, you'll find it in the Bosch relay since the Nissan system is a licensed copy of the Bosch.

Search for ba9s socket. It looks like the Autometer 2359 socket might work. This may also be a good time to consider changing to LED bulbs to get more light to drive at night.

I can't tell you about warranty, but I've had the Harrington bumpers on my 260Z for around 7 years now. I would suggest going without the rubber strips. I had to fab the front brackets myself for the 260Z, but the rear brackets came from Datsun Spirit. I had to slot them a little for the 260Z.

Try using some starting fluid to get the car to fire.

IIRC, the bulbs in the 240Z ground to the gauge housings. Make sure the contact surface between the gauge and socket are clean, and make sure the gauges are secured tightly to the dash with no corrosion. Finally make sure the dash is secured tightly to the body of the car also with no corrosion in the contact surface.

Here's a rumor about when Nissan will start taking money/commitments... https://www.newnissanz.com/threads/nissan-z-order-books-open-november-15th.406/?fbclid=IwAR0k2V5ggZeZ5ihwHL3M0T13XX11mghp1Fhekem8wsLwgEds6q61eb1vVSQ

NW Pennsyltucky is more like Cleveland, Pittsburgh, Erie or Buffalo. That would be quite a trek for the Captain. @GoldAirWith living in the land that rust forgot (for the most part), why are you considering a Z from the land where rust never sleeps?

LEDs are high resistance and not very voltage sensitive. If you leave an incandescent bulb in that circuit, you'll have a better idea of whether or not the car is charging.

I'd bet that if you used a multimeter on resistance, it would probably have no resistance to the negative post on the battery, provided the battery is connected.

If you are referring to the white wire with red stripe, that connects to the BATT post.

As @Zed Head said, the stud for ground is just above the E in your picture (1). The condenser (2) and the black wire (3) are attached to the stud. If you are missing the nut that goes on the stud, go to your local chain auto parts store and get one of those boxes of assorted metric fasteners (nuts/bolts/washers). It should probably be an M6 or M8 nut. You'll also want a flat washer and lock washer to help secure the condenser and ground wire.

Just a suggestion: if you're parking in a space like that, put the boot on the front tire. If the potential thieves have a tow truck with a grabber, they can pick up the back end and pull the car out easily.

I did some more searching. The hose piece is NLA, as I suspected. https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-hose-filler~17229-p8200.html https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-hose-filler~17229-p7100.html You may be able to take measurements of your old hose, if that's what you need, and find parts on this site to fabricate your own: https://www.fillernecksupply.com/1979-1980-1981-1982-1983-nissan-280zx-fuel-filler-neck-gas-tank-pipe/

The steel part may be available here: https://zcarsource.com/fuel-systems/gas-tanks-components/gas-filler-hose/ I saw a couple that included the rubber coupler on ebay.

Costco has the Quickjack 5000 on sale again. https://www.costco.com/quickjack-5%2c000-lb-capacity-portable-car-lift.product.100460313.html

Well, you could always move the connector from relay 5 to relay 2 and see if it works. If it does, you know you have a spare EFI relay.

The connector for the fuel pump relay is plugged into the inhibitor relay. I am guessing you have a manual transmission. The inhibitor relay is used in cars with automatic transmissions. I haven't checked, but I wouldn't be surprised if the part number for those relays are the same. It could be the case that the fuel pump relay failed so someone moved the connector over to the inhibitor relay.

How are you measuring temperature? Via the gauge? With an infrared thermometer? At what point in the system were you measuring the temperature? I will tend to agree that a 12 inch fan may be too small. Things to consider: Water pump - Are the impeller blades corroded to nothing? Gunk in the system - Have you flushed the cooling system? Lean combustion - Lean is hotter. You might want to take the radiator cap off when the car is cool and watch for coolant flow when the car is running.

No, it goes to the black/white wire on the resistor.

In controls vernacular the yellow wire is a "signal". In this case, the ignition being on signals the fan that it is okay to run if the engine is hot.

If you have a stock setup on your ignition, you are wiring it contrary to the instructions you posted. So, here is how you should have the control box wired to the car according to the instructions: Black - Grounded Green - Nothing (assuming you don't have AC) Yellow - To the black/white wire at the ballast resistor Red - Battery Note, if you have the red and yellow reversed, the car will probably die/not start because you are trying to draw too much current from the ignition circuit.

Does a land speed record car count as a race car?

The FSM has the specs for the valve adjustment. This is a popular procedure: https://web.archive.org/web/20080720024048/http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=12&uid=786489&gid=1803105