jmortensen

I understand how you do this in the front, but not in the rear. Seems like the halfshafts would be right in the way of this. Maybe your situation is different Cary? If not, and you have pictures, I would love to see them I'm still screwing around with bars and I'd like to have the rear attach to the strut if possible.

Richard, you could run nitrogen instead of air in the tires. That would make the pressure change smaller. I had a boss who ran ITSS who did that. He brought a big cylinder of nitrogen to the track, and he used it to run his impact gun and other tools also. The faster I go the more the pressure increases, and the lower I find I want the total pressure. Started out at ~33 cold to get to 35 hot with BFG R1's back in the day, now I'm running 28/26 hot on slicks. I usually start with 24/23, then bleed off pressure in between runs or work groups, and I have to bleed of a lot of air... I've got this theory, maybe Cary or others can verify. The more heat you can put into the tire the better (within reason of course but I haven't overheated a tire yet) and the less air pressure you start with the hotter the tire will run. So as I continue on, I find myself running less pressure, and more negative camber and still getting good temps across the tire. Another way of saying it: Used to be I didn't have the required camber and I had to jack the pressure up to keep the the temps good across the tire. Now with more negative camber I can drop the pressures, maintain good temps across the tire, and it sticks a hell of a lot better. It's a bit counterintuitive to me, but that's what's been happening with me since I started running R tires, and a couple friends' experiences seem to back me up.

Another 4 oz bottle won't hurt anything. If you want to try and diagnose the noise: http://www.ringpinion.com/content/technicalhelp/default.asp?pid=109 http://www.ringpinion.com/content/technicalhelp/default.asp?pid=110

Turned them off and couldn't keep it pointed in the right direction. Turned them down and pulled a 7:10.838. I think a 7:05 is possible if every bounce went the right way and every turn was hit just right, but I think a wheel would be necessary to get there.

If it's brand spanking new you need to get some lube into the clutch packs. Put LSD additive in the oil if it doesn't already have it, then go do some figure 8s in a parking lot until the lube gets in there.

Just do the math. It was 5 gallons gas to 1 gallon (114 octane) tolulene = 95.33333 octane. AVgas is 50/50 since it is only 100 octane. Xylene is 118 octane but I mixed it like Tolulene, and I think I went 4 to one on the 112 leaded race gas. Look into home made octane boosters if you want to run the xylene or tolulene. You need to add some ATF and mineral spirits. Recipes are easy to find on the net.

I didn't mess with the aids, so if they come on, they're on. Is there time to be had there? Now that you mention it though, there might be some time there...

I'd be curious to see how I stack up out there. I did a 7:31 on hard slicks and a 7:13.350 on super softs. Not exactly a "clean" run, but the Z gets airborne a lot on that track and it is super squirrely on super soft tires. My sandbag is I'm using a joystick just in case someone gets into the 6's....

The big one is TDC. The others are 5º increments.

I got my 2 1/2" Dynomax Super Turbo from JC Whitney for $29.49. Bought mandrel bends from them at the same time to make the rest of the system. That was a few years back, don't know the current price on the muffler. I'm running it with triple 44's and the MSA header. Have a listen: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=1562&sort=1&cat=500&page=1

99.99999% sure the reaction disk fell out. The reaction disk is a small rubber disk inside the booster. It sits right in the middle of the booster, and can fall out when you separate the master and the booster. It should be down in the bottom of the booster. Fish it out and put it back in its place. Everything should be good to go afterwards. While I haven't had this problem myself I've seen quite a few posts about it over the years, and they all said exactly what you said: "Bled the system 57 times, everything is brand new, still no pedal."

Sounds to me like your car is too low. Look into roll centers and you'll find out what negative effects they can have when low lower strut type suspension too much. The big one is that lateral force compresses the suspension, and your camber curve isn't good either. Bumpsteer spacers will help correct the roll center, but to really correct bumpsteer you need to measure it and adjust it out. It's worth doing both. My friends running Kuhmos are running slightly lower pressures than you, like 26/24, but you'll have to do that by feel or better yet by tire temps. The HUGE thing that you didn't mention is caster. Caster makes a major difference in turn in. I've had good luck with a pretty similar setup with 5.5º of caster and more toe in on the back end. You might try a little more toe out in front too. Some others are running more caster than I am. I think John Coffey was running 7º if memory serves. Stiffer spring rates are going to reduce body roll and squat and dive and keep the suspension in the "sweet spot" with regards to camber curve, but are definitely going to require different struts. You're at the limit of what the Illuminas can handle as far as spring rates according to Ground Control so you'll need Konis or the GC Advance Design like Tom has.

That's a good article but not entirely accurate. The Power Brute is a Nissan clutch type LSD, the 12mm ring gear bolts seem to have been introduced around 85/86, the 300ZX does have spring plates but not spring discs which still gives it some preload, etc. By far the most detailed and accurate info I've found is here: http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/lsd1.asp

I have an E31 and L28 combo and I took out about 1/8" (it was a lot) around the edge on the intake side of the chamber to unshroud the intake valve when I matched it to the Nissan L28 headgasket. I took some out of the exhaust side as well. Sounds to me like you have an L24 gasket, not an L28 gasket. But that is just guessing. I'm with Phred though, something doesn't add up. I did also notch the block to match the head so that there was an open space around the valve when it was all the way open. I didn't use a flow bench, just common sense. I don't know exactly what the results were, but I can say for sure they were better than before. I wouldn't have thought that undercutting the chamber before the head gasket as Phred suggests would do much good. It might increase the flow at lower valve lifts, but at full open the valve is past the headgasket into the bore. Again, I've never used a flowbench, so maybe I'm just plain 'ol wrong on that one. The other thing I concentrated on were the triangular wedges between the valves. I cut those down A LOT. I also polished out the circular machining marks around the valve seats, and took down all the sharp edges, including the triangular patch of spark plug threads that stick into the chambers. I also took down the walls where the chamber meets the deck of the head farther away from the spark plug. On the E31 there are 2 sharp ridges there with some pretty poor casting. I polished out all the crappy casting and took the sharp ridge out. My only suggestion would be go big on the cam. I have a 490/280, and the head got shaved a bit so I believe I'm in the 11:1 range, and I have to run 95 octane to keep it from pinging. I'd go at least 280, maybe a little bigger if you can find it.

240ZX is right about the ring and pinion being matched. I think acanthopis is looking at the bolt head, not the shaft. The 12mm bolts have a 17mm head and the 10mm bolts have a 14mm head. If so, then it would be the same 12mm bolt shaft as the later 300ZX Turbo LSD. Easy to fix, just use a spacer like described here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14880

I would keep the adjustable slave and fork just because it's nice to have the adjustment. The fork won't matter as long as the fork with the hole in the end is used with the adjustable slave. Then you just need the right throwout for the pressure plate. The key here is that the throwout collar MUST match the pp. None of the other stuff will matter in your case, since it sounds like you have the fork with the hole and the manually adjustable pin. Here's the info for that: http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/trans_swap%20parts/4tobear_specs1.html If you don't care to adjust your clutch, then you can do as Curtis says and use the self adjusting slave pin and fork with no hole.

I think his question was in regards to how you get the 12mm carrier to work with the 10mm bolts. Not a problem. The bolts go through a hole in the carrier and then screw into the threaded holes in the ring gear. All you need to do is get some ring gear bolt spacers to take up the 1 mm gap between the 12mm hole and the 10mm bolt. They don't have to be exact or super tight, they're just taking up the space so that the ring gear gets bolted on straight. Here's what you do: Look up stainless steel tube on the internet. You're looking for something with 12mm OD and 10mm ID. You'll probably have to buy a stick of tube that might be 4' or 8' long. Get the tube, and cut the pieces to the right length to fit the carrier. Deburr the ends, and stick them in the holes. Then just bolt it all together. Easy to do, and you can recoop your cost on the tube pretty easily. Just make more sets of spacers and sell them on here or hybridz or zcar.com. I bought my spacers to install my 12mm carrier on my 4.11 with 10mm bolts from someone who had done just that. I would just give you his email but I know he ran out already. He did tell me that he did more than break even on the spacers and he was charging $20 per set. Your side stub axles should plug right into the LSD. Mine from an 80ZX plugged right into my 87 300ZX carrier.

I'm sorry, I'm not trying to be an arse about it or insult you personally, but the information is BS, plain and simple.

This isn't a good idea. Your credit card company will call you when you have unusual charges. I use one of my credit cards for business and they are always calling me to verify transactions. They won't ever ask you for your whole credit card number, but they might verify it with the last 4 digits or something like that. Then they'll say "We had an unusual charge for $5000 from Joe's House of Brie" or whatever it is and they'll ask you to verify the charges. If you just hang up on them, they will SHUT YOUR CARD OFF until you contact them. If you really want to know what to look out for, don't trust me, or Mike, or eracer99. Go to citibank.com or mbna.com or visa.com or mastercard.com and read their warnings. This speculative BS on the internet is really annoying. This whole thing started from the equivalent of a chain letter and here we are 10 posts later still stuck on the thread, despite the fact that the original post was BS. Come on people, just say no. Just let this one die.

I used to work in Risk Management for one of the largest credit card processors in the country. The number on the back of your card is a CID (Card Identification) number, not a pin number. It is there as an additional security feature. The 16 digit (15 in the case of AMEX) credit card number is produced with a logorithm and credit card scammers have figured out what the logorithms are. You can get programs where you can plug in a legit credit card number and the program will start throwing out the next numbers in the sequence, which is one of the primary methods for credit card scammers to get numbers. The CID number is produced with a DIFFERENT logorithm and is used as an additional measure of security. I no longer work for Risk Management, and I am now a merchant who processes credit cards in a mail order business. I can tell you that if I do a mail order transaction I get that CID number from the cardholder as an additional guarantee that they are indeed the cardholder, and they are indeed in posession of their credit card. Basically as it stands now I've got these verification measures in place: I can verify that the number is legit, and that the expiration date is correct. I can verify the first five NUMBERS in the street address and the zip code. I can verify the CID number. If I do all of these things, I am much less likely to encounter fraud. Sometimes I can actually get a lower percentage fee from the credit card by doing all of them (I think Discover is the card that does this). Here is some information on this number, which Visa calls a CVV2 number, and it's real purpose. It is not a pin number, and by itself will not gain a scammer any benefit in and of itself. However, if a scammer has grabbed your credit card statement from your mailbox and has tried to use it thru a merchant like myself who requires that number, it is conceivable that they might try to get the number in order to complete whatever fraudulent purchase they're trying to make. Visa Website - Card Not Present Every once in a while I'll get a person who ABSOLUTELY REFUSES to give me the CID number on their card. Now I have to wonder if they've seen an email like the one that started this thread. Jon

OK so I've got one vote for Dellortos and one for motorcycle Mikuni jets. Anyone else? Thanks Bruce

I've been running 50/50 100 octane low lead Av gas and 91 octane and been having good results. Also had good results mixing Trick 112 octane leaded and super from the pump, and also have run tolulene and xylene and super from the pump. All were mixed for ~95 octane. It felt the best on the 112/91 octane mix, but I never did any back to back testing. If you don't NEED the octane, you're wasting time and money IMO.

I can't tell what the heck these are. SK jets? Some weird early Mikuni jets I've never seen??? Mystery jets

I used to work in a shop with an alignment rack, so I tried a BUNCH of different alignments. The fastest rear toe setting for me was 3/16 total toe in. I like 0 or a little toe out in front, usually 0 on a big track and toe out at autox. I hear people talking about "dragging tires" and I don't know what to make of it. I think that school of thought comes from ITS where guys are trying to get the most out of their 190bhp, and given their rules maybe you can't blame them. I run 3/16" total toe in the rear on slicks and can get a full season of autox and maybe 3 or 4 track days out of them, so it's not like that little amount of toe burns them off the car right away. When I was telling people about my toe settings on hybridz a lot of them assumed I would be going thru tires like crazy, but the reality is not at all. I usually replace them because they've been over heat cycled, not cause they're down to the cords either. 3/16" total is WELL within the factory alignment specs also IIRC. My best guess is this has to do with the 2 basic styles of race car set up. As John Coffey has explained it on Hybridz, the "East Coast" setup uses very stiff springs, smaller sway bars, stiffer springs in front. The cars tend to understeer more. Apparently this works well due to the very smooth surface of tracks back east. The "West Coast" setup uses softer springs and bigger bars and tends towards a little toe in in the back, and the cars tend to oversteer. Our tracks are not so smooth and this works better according to the theory. I like my car set up West Coast style I guess, but I came up with my preferences way before I knew that they fit a pattern. Bottom line is I'll do whatever is FASTER, and for me that is toe in on the rear.

There is already a great how-to on hybridz.org but it assumes the use of Koni struts. If you're talking Illuminas, the BZ3099 is the MR2 rear that fits in the front of the 240 and is 1.5 inches shorter. Use the standard 240 front in the rear and it is 2" shorter. Or you could use the BZ3099 front and rear with spacers in the rear. I think sectioning about 2" from the top of the strut is ideal. I want to say that Ground Control's instructions say to section right at the bottom of the strut, but this seems like a dangerous place to do the work. First off if you totally screw up the weld then you can't grind out the part that you messed up. And secondly, if your weld is really bad and breaks, the bottom of the strut could detach from the strut tube, and at that point it's a matter of what you're going to hit before the car slides to a stop. You could make the argument that if you're that bad at welding you probably shouldn't be welding your strut housings in the first place... If you section above the spring perch then the loading from the spring goes down the strut tube not up, so the welded area only takes lateral forces and pulling forces from the extension of the strut (if you were to jump the car or have it on a rack with the suspension hanging). If the weld were to break while driving it would make a hell of a noise, but it would be impossible for the control arm to move down far enough for the strut insert to fall out of the tube. When I did mine I just used hose clamps to attach the strut tube to a piece of angle iron to hold them in line, and tacked them together, then welded it up. It was really easy, and the Illuminas that I'm using aren't nearly as tight in the bore of the tube as the Konis so the fitment isn't so hyper critical. EDIT--The BZ3099 uses thicker threaded portion at the top of the plate than the stock Z stuff. I bought adapters to fit them into my camber plates from Ground Control, not sure what mods would be needed for stock strut tops. Jon