jmortensen

You could use a pip pin, or just drill a hole through the channel and the lexan and put bolt and nut in there. Pip pins are kind of expensive.

Since you're apparently new to the Lexan game, I'll warn you now. If you do side windows or the rear window, clean it with soft rags and soap and water. Paper towels will scratch the crap out of it, and glass cleaner turns it cloudy. Get the window as clean as possible before you put any cloth or anything on it. If you only use it for your temporary windows I guess it doesn't matter, but just thought you should know, since you got a sheet and that's more than enough to do the quarters and hatch.

It's about 10 minutes. I'll PM you and we can go from there...

With a jigsaw, sawzall, hacksaw, bandsaw, etc. It's really easy to cut and drill holes in. REALLY easy. Cuts like a very soft wood. Clean up the edges with sandpaper. I recently used some in my home, below are some pics. I have a two year old who liked to throw toys down the stairwell and was starting to climb the banisters. I installed Lexan everywhere she is able to get to. Just took a 4' x 8' sheet, cut it wide enough to fill the space between the columns, actually notched around the base boards with a jigsaw, drilled a couple holes and zip tied it to the wrought iron. No, I didn't have any black zip ties... Lexan is the GE brand of polycarbonate. You might also find it under just polycarbonate if you're looking at a local plastic supply.

What is a corner valence? Is that the part under the headlight? Can you provide a picture? I might be able to help but I don't want to get myself into shipping a huge item that is air dam sized...

Lexan is MUCH easier to cut than Plexi and much tougher too. I have a friend who made Lexan windows and just drilled a hole through the inside of the door frame and window in front and back. He would then lift the window into the track and put a couple wooden dowels in there to hold the window in. He did have the top track of the window in place. Sounds like you may not have that track installed. Might reinstall it if possible, doesn't weigh that much.

Yes, they are resonators in the stock system. They knock down the droning that can happen at ~2500 without one. A good replacement would be a "bullet" muffler which is a race thing and is just a straight through tube with holes and fiberglass or stainless packing around it. Your typical glasspack has "teeth" where the holes are in the tube and those create turbulence and back pressure, where a bullet does not. http://www.dynomax.com/mufflers.php?muffler=racebullet

Not an FI guy at all, but hunting idle is often caused by a dirty throttle body. If you pull the boot to the throttle body you can open it up manually and use a paper towel or rag and some carb cleaner to clean up the blade and the housing. The idea here is that the blade doesn't seal to the housing, and the small amount of air that leaks around is what the engine runs on. When the thing gets full of soot, that seals it better and then the engine starves for air, which makes it start to surge while struggling to stay running. After that, someone else is going to have to help, but dirty throttle body is very common, so try that first.

Those were just original shocks, not disintegrated. They have a (leather?) piston seal which rides on the inside of the tube and that's about it. You can actually make those work pretty good supposedly by running different weights of oil. I haven't played with them other than just removing and installing a strut cartridge replacement, but I've read where others have. Saskatchewan explains the rust issues... I think the stock prop valve is brass (been a while, but my vague memory of messing with the stock prop valve in my 70 maybe 7 or 8 years ago says so) and if that's the case I'm guessing that might be the easier solution.

You could hit the parts store, buy a hard line that is about the same length and bend it by hand. You could also buy a flaring tool, a 10 x 1mm double flare end and a tubing cutter and cut the fitting off, flare the end and be on your way. If you haven't flared brake lines before it's kind of a bitch to do, so my recommendation would be to buy a line and bend it. I had a friend do this and the lines were too long so he put a loop in. Not the prettiest, but it worked.

Yes..

Spray oil in the frame rails. That's what they do in Canada. I did a little research in trying to find out what oil they use, and wasn't able to come up with an exact answer, but I did figure out that it had some fish oil in it. http://www.krown.com/#default I also found some people in the US who had done this with used motor oil and WD-40. My plan was to get a gallon of Kroil and use that, because hey, it's "the oil that creeps". I think just about any oil works though.

After mid 71 the Z didn't have a return spring on the slave. Earlier models did. My earlier Z and my friends both make this noise. They all have a return spring on the pedal. So basically, no, it's not a return spring thing.

It's not the throwout bearing. The throwout bearing isn't doing anything at all when you have your foot off the clutch. It's transmission bearings. Input and countershaft are the most likely if I recall. FWIW, I have a friend who had that noise, rebuilt the trans, noise came back about 2 weeks later, she had it rebuilt again, noise came back again. This time she said "F it" and she's been driving on that transmission for probably 10 years.

Sounds like the price is kinda high for what it is. I haven't been looking, but I would expect to pay $5000 for a car fitting that description. An all original perfectly restored car would be a lot more, as might be a really modified car, but those are all your pretty standard modifications as far as drivetrain are concerned. They make the car more driveable but probably hurt its value with collectors. The odometers only have 5 mile digits, so that 76K could be 76, 176, 276, etc. I think the button start is probably because that's popular. The ignition cylinders are a weak spot, but going with a button was probably done because it looks cool.

You mean the rears. The rear strut tubes are longer, the struts are the same. So to fit the longer tube they press a section of pipe onto the bottom. Short springs in front, if you have progressive springs, tight winds at the top reduces unsprung weight marginally which is a good thing, but in practice probably makes no difference.

I posted a formula for estimating this from Race Car Aerodynamics. Using the formula it looks like you could expect 146.5 mph, that's estimating drag at .45 and frontal area at 22 ft^2 . As you said, in reality gearing is more important than what the potential is for redline in 5th. To me it looks like you could get pretty close to the estimate in 4th, 5th is just there for saving gas in your case.

If they're pulling the head that might be OK, but yeah, for the work alone that seems really high.

The stock L28 is 8.3:1 compression, so that part isn't an issue. Listen to Jim though, hybridz.org has a ton of guys who have been down this road before and can answer any question you can come up with.

That's the way to do it if you want to leave the pump there, but really making a block off plate is pretty simple. If you're deleting things, you can also get rid of the stock fuel rail if you want. I did that because I was having vapor lock trouble at the track, and I found that the rail and the pump were both too hot to touch after the car had been running for a while. After removing both and running a rubber hose from the filter across the rad core support and back to the carbs, I never had vapor lock again.

Maybe they heard it from someone they considered trustworthy who heard it on twitter. Gotta be diligent and try to nip this kind of thing in the bud.

Probably, but then SU's would be a much better choice than triples for that scenario as well. You can't have it all. You either get a high strung motor that makes a lot of power up top with the triples, or you get an L28 that runs out of poop at the top end with the SU's. That's my experience having run both anyway. SU's with the .490 cam works great at 2500 rpm on an L28, for the record. I daily drove that L28 with that cam, 44's, 2.5" exhaust, light flywheel and ACT clutch for years and had no problems and stalled probably once a year when my foot slipped off the clutch or I just completely spaced out and didn't pay any attention to what I was doing. That combo is easy to drive IMO. It's not as though you can't drive at 2000 or 2500 rpm, that's just not where it's going to make the most power.

Not as a kit per se. But you'll need just a few things; springs and retainers and different valve stem seals. I would imagine you could ask a local machine shop and they could get parts for you. If not anyone who sells Schneider cams should be able to get their springs and retainers. For valve stem seals there is a common Ford part that works on the L series and provides the necessary clearance, more info here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/25807-improved-l6-valve-stem-seals/ You'll need to get the right size lash pads as well, but I wouldn't take anyone's recommendation on lash pad sizes or buy them in a kit. Sizes will change based on where the valves are in the head, how many times the valves have been cut or how many times and how far the valve seats have been cut. Here's another resource for figuring out the lash pad size without having to order a whole bunch: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/42991-custom-cylinder-head-building-what%E2%80%99s-involved%E2%80%A6/

The benefit to the carbs is that they make more power at higher rpms. If you put a smallish cam in there, you will hinder the carbs ability to do what they do well. I would suggest a medium sized cam, something in the .490-.520 inch lift and 280-300 degree duration advertised numbers range. Any smaller and I think you're giving up hp. That doesn't mean it won't work. I had a friend use 44 Mikunis on a L16 with a nearly stock cam. He followed the common "knowledge" that most people overcam an engine and went way too conservative on the camshaft. He also convinced me to buy my first cam for my L28 which was similarly tiny. I got fed up with it and bought a .490/280 cam for my car which was running SU's at the time and he warned me that it would have no bottom end, would be impossible to drive in traffic, etc. After a ride in my car he immediately purchased a much bigger camshaft. Don't get me wrong, his car made more power than with the small cam and 44's than it did with the dual 36mm SU's he replaced, but not nearly as much as it did after he went bigger on the camshaft. As for me, I was wanting to go bigger again on the camshaft when I finally decided to do a V8 conversion instead. The .490/280 worked well on the street but I felt like it was a bit of a compromise on the track.

Yep, a Series I, it's even one of the first 5000 built. It's all cut up with a roll cage and big brakes and flares and R200 LSD. It's gonna suck balls at 2200 lbs with 400 hp and 12" wide slicks. Yucky. I should have kept it stock and had a car that could be outperformed in every aspect by a Camry.