jmortensen

Option 2 is more for race cars. The Tokico springs are not nearly stiff enough to control roll by themselves, and adding a big front bar with no rear will lead to even more understeer. Nobody says you "have to" do any of this, but if you just want to get Tokico springs I would suggest you either leave the front bar alone or get the aftermarket front and rear bars. I am not a big fan of the Tokico springs though. Do a search and you'll see lots of people who have the front springs nearly coil bound.

Two basic theories on sports car suspension: 1. Run soft springs with stiff bars 2. Run stiff springs with soft bar, possibly no rear bar. The stock Z is set up with very soft springs and no rear bar. If you want it to handle you really need to control the roll, as you lose negative camber with body roll. For a street car, #1 is probably the way to go, so that means bigger front and rear bars, and in all likelihood stiffer springs as well, since the Z was undersprung from the factory.

It wasn't a stock diff for a 240Z, but some racers put them in because they're lighter, and everything should just bolt right up, so I think it is possible that someone had an accident and used what they could find. They came stock in the 510 and a LOT of different Subarus.

It's possible that someone installed an R160 later, but not likely. $80 is probably fair for either, but if the guy doesn't want it the easy thing to do is take it back and sell it to someone else. Plenty of pics of both here or at hybridz so you should be able to figure out what it really is pretty easily.

Agree with Phil. I think the safety issue comes down to cage design. The cars are both tin cans.

Looks like Jim Cook flares, and the rest is available through MSA as stated above.

Just because it is slipping doesn't mean that there is grease or oil on it. The disk itself has a wear surface on it, and as it wears down it gets thinner like a brake pad. The thinner it gets the less pressure the pressure plate can put on it because the springs in the plate aren't compressed as much, so that can cause slippage. You can also increase power levels until you get some slippage. My stock clutch held down the SU's just fine, but when I went to Mikunis I had to change to an ACT clutch because it couldn't hold the power anymore. If you aren't making a lot of power, then the likely culprit is just wear on the disk, and as said before the biggest risks are putting a lot of heat into the flywheel and/or wearing the disk down to the rivets and having them chew up the flywheel.

I don't know if that was me, but I do know that I've posted that bit of info before, as I incorrectly adjusted the rod to the clutch master too tight and had it slip progressively worse at the track as the clutch fluid heated up. That would be a pretty reliable symptom though. The more you drive, the worse it slips. If it still feels the same after driving for an hour in stop and go, the clutch adjustment isn't the problem. As to when a clutch slips most, I think it is far more likely to slip in a higher gear than a lower gear, because you're not multiplying the torque via the transmission in the higher gear. In the same way that it's easier to spin the pedals in the lowest gear on a bike and harder to spin the pedals in a high gear, the clutch (and motor) get loaded a lot more in a high gear. I always test a clutch like this: find a steep hill, drive at a fairly low speed, say 35 mph. Put the trans in 4th, rev to 4000, drop the clutch. If the clutch is prone to slipping, it will slip on this test. You may not notice the problem taking off from a light in 1st, but you WILL notice on this test.

Something weird going on there. Ira is 2 seconds slower than Epperly and he is 12 seconds off the pace. Did it rain or something?

It's impossible to accurately say how long you can let the clutch slip before damage happens. If the stock flywheel isn't too badly damaged by the time you pull it out, you can have it machined true again and put it back in. A 240 flywheel shouldn't be that hard to come by, just put a WTB ad on one of the forums and you should find one pretty easily.

I'm eagerly awaiting seeing Steve Epperly and Greg Ira in the same race. Greg is obviously fast, I hear Steve is really fast as well. It will be fun to see how they stack up against each other. The 510 is just too brick shaped to compete anymore I think. A lot of the "Sentras" and other small Nissan cars out there are still using L4 engines, but I think the penalty for that boxy shape is just too high for the 510 to be in the hunt for a national championship.

LD28 has the taller block, hence it requires the taller timing chain cover. The covers are all interchangeable on the L24/L26/L28 because they block heights are the same.

No, but I'm sure there are quite a few people with that setup who can answer.

Yes, no, no. They work fine, they're not absolutely necessary, and lowering a Z generally results in a lot more neg camber in the rear than the front.

Wow, looks like John pulled a fast run out from nowhere. Toby was more consistent. Great job JT!

Vintage cars use the Toyota 4x4 vented front setup and the 79-81 rear disk setup. I think you'll need dual masters to get that balanced as the fronts have a lot more power than the rears. Back in the day there was a FIA brake system from Nissan Comp which had a vented system very similar to the Toy setup and I believe the 79-81 rear disk is exactly the same as the FIA rear disk system that was sold. Not sure what class you're in, so it's tough to say how it will go in tech.

You can also just google "datsun 240z wheelbase" and it comes up right away in the description of one of the first few sites, don't even need to open the page.

Hybridz.org will be more appreciative of the V8 swap. The people there (including me) are all about making the cars faster. I'm putting a 5.3L in my Series I, VIN 4396. I put a cage in it and it's getting huge flares and 15x14 wheels in the back. Makes some of the people here want to cry. It's going to be AWESOME!

Stephen is right. I had that happen with an old set on a Z that I bought from the original owner. Might have been the 3rd set of tires on the car. They separated all the way across the tread on one and about an 8" chunk came off, the other one had a huge bulge where the tread was starting to come off the sidewall, but it didn't let go. Weird part was you could barely feel that anything was wrong from inside the car.

In this thread you haven't given enough info to make an intelligent comment about whether you should keep the car. If it is a rust bucket, has a lot of damage to fix or is otherwise needing attention and you can't do most of the work yourself, what you have is a money pit. Some people don't mind putting a lot of money into a 40 year old Japanese tin can to make it run, others do. You're the one who has to pay for it, so ultimately you need to decide if it's worth it. Strictly from the compression readings, it looks like you have a serviceable engine.

Compression testers shouldn't be used to see if the car has a particular amount of compression, IMO. They vary pretty wildly in readings from one tester to the next, and things like a bigger cam can drastically lower the compression numbers as tested on a gauge. What compression testers are good at is seeing if you have a problem in one cylinder. By the results of your test, you do not. It's pretty clear that your top end is sealing OK, because if it isn't you wouldn't have an equal number across all cylinders. It's also clear that the rings are equal across all 6. If you really want to do another test to evaluate the strength of the engine, do a leakdown test. That will give you a better idea of whether or not you need a rebuild, but based on the compression test being equal I'd say that car is going to fire up and run just fine and that's about all you can expect to get from a compression tester.

I wouldn't bother testing again. You're good to go.

Agreed, but the K diff out of the cars is still pretty available and the Subaru diff with the LSD is looking better and better all the time.

The 3.36 rear gear in the back of a manual 240Z is about as high as you're going to find. If you want a lower ratio like a 4.11 or something like that, I think the easiest thing to do is find a truck in a JY and pull the front diff. I don't believe the gears are available anymore, I remember a couple years ago when Nissan Comp moved to TN they sold off most (all?) of their old gearsets. If you could find the gearset there is another issue too, which is that in 76 (rough memory there, might be wrong), the ID of the ring gear changed, so if you had a 260 I think you'd need the carrier from a later diff as well. So again, finding a later diff with the ratio you want is the way to go. Later Nissan cars used the K diff which had 4.11's I think, and you can use a Subaru STi diff with some of John Coffey's adapters and get yourself a 3.90 with LSD that way. More info on the K diffs here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ and John's parts here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/78123-subaru-wrx-sti-r180-side-axles/

I have personally used this style on a Z head. It's not the nicest or quickest, but can get the job done. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/OTC-4573/