seerex

maybe better pic

its has the 3 hoses up to that go to the from of the motor but attach to nothing , I am gonna double check that now but it has 2 wires attached to the bottom of it

hhm what if you don't have it hooked up to the air cleaner I have k&n filters what do you do with it then?

is this supposed to be hooked up to anything other than the small line from my block breather that goes to my manifold, can I remove this as well?

this apprears to go nowhere and never seen this on any of my other 240zs , and I am not required to pass smog, does anyone what it is and what does it do and can I remove without any adverse results, it located on the passenger side of my 72 240 on the fender it apprears to be a vapor tank of some sort, thanks Jeff

Ok I got my z driving and running well today , i heard a buzzing warning sound when I am driving in gear and when the car goes into reverse? never had this on my other 72 or it might have been removed, any info on what it is and how to remove it thanks Jeff:geek:

they have a video from ztherapy , which shows all of the bushing being replaced on the car , kinda a piece by piece video, maybe a good ideal, i know when i drop my suspension that gonna be a must , I saw the preview on their tune up video , good luck Jeff:geek:

Orlando area here , I have a friend I will ask if he know someone in the Tampa area , he might know someone personally, unles its the carbs I just hate to take it to anyone , I find with z cars they seem to do more damage than fixing Jeff:geek:

I am sure its possible but you would reduce the arm room in that area , I think is their reasoning ust like what they do on the corvettes and other mininal room cars , I am 6-3 and think i would be too cramped if there was say 3-4 inches added to the center console in height, good luck

I had the same luck with the clamp on kind , does anyone know where to purchase the weld on kind,looking for the style with holes in them , I have searched for months I can buy the whole pedal set attached but its for like a rail buggy , any help would be great

if I hadn't already spent a bunch of time and money on mine I would be bidding on this one , thought you guys might want to check it out , kinda hard to find , Jeff:geek: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33695&item=2447318612

well I tried to post it and it didn't show up , how weird either way the instruction are about useless, but it does show how to rebuilt the booster if you would like that , and it has a nice breakdown of what all the parts go to and so forth, let me know Jeff

lets try thispage one I doubt the instruction will help at all but it has a blow up of the unit and how to rebuild it

honestly for the money I would do both master and slave why you are in there , we replaced the mc on my 240 and brothers 260 and shortly after the sc went bad , almost to spite us , good luck Jeff:geek:

by chance where are you in fla? I know a couple in the central florida area , zotz in winter park is very good with carbs webbers and su's and webs z world on central , I also know another mechanic that specializes in there but not sure what show he is at right now , good luck Jeff:geek:

after reading that thread I answered my own question , now I wonder if who I buy the cam through would have the appropiate thickness lash pads if I told them that I was using 280 valves in an e31 head? would be to good to be true I bet

is that an issue if I will be replacing cam , rockers,springs and lash pads?

ahh didn't think about that very good point , i just checked and all the guides are the same for 70-78 , kinda a concern now with mixing up parts from diffrent years , thank you I will add that to my grocery list

by chance do you have a pic , I have found several one onlys' on the web and might be able to get you a link to the right one if I am sure which it is, is the slotted aluminum < dealer option wheel>

my bad I thought yours was a 74 , but no biggie as long as the bend is not bad , and I bet still cheaper, I hear there is a built in thermostat for the manifold itself so when it reaches like 86 f it cuts off the water to it any way

I agree it might be overkill but it would work ok , have you checked msa , I remember when ordering my thermostat housing they asked about that hose if I needed it , they show it as part #16-8016 and 5.57 as in price , just for info , good luck Jeff:geek:

crazy question here , but you know that the booster is bad right?for sure , signs of such is very hard brake pedal and a rise in the rpms when the pedal is pushed dues to the leak in the booster sometimes a air leak can be heard , just asking to be sure because like I mentioned before its not task I look forward in doing good luck Jeff

the brake booster on that car isn't difficult as in skill but it is a pain the butt, I can scan the instruction from a chiltons manual for you , but its pretty straight forward as in 4 bolts on the engine bay side and then from the driverside under part of the dash you have to remove it from the pedal and some small stuff from inside, the hard part is getting under the dash with tools to remove it , recommended using a pillow otherwise you will pay for it later , if its been on the car since day one is might be a tad stuck , good luck Jeff

not sure if you will ever get the doors to sound mercedes like but just replacing the fasteners and redoing the doors correctly helps alot, as far as the floors and tunnel areas , I am gonna use stuff called dynamat , its a sound deadening matterial that can be put on by heat gun or can be purchased with glue on one side already , BUT make sure where ever you put it there is no rust and the area is sealed up well otherwise it will retain moisture and could make for a rust problem and make sure not to cover up drain holes or areas that need to be left open to dry easily, its not cheap stuff , you can get it at car audio shops or crutchfield I think has it , you can use it on the door as well to help with sound, good luck Jeff:geek: