seerex

here ya go mike

i wore mine

before you buy the 4 bbl and manifold , just take some time and read up on some of the expierences of some of the memebers, I have heard things both positive and negitive mostly negitive but it never hurts to read up ,also might want to look into a mega squirt I believe it called, just a suggestion

I am not sure if I would use the term themed, but resto- mod might be the closest if you had to use a term,

the fact the car hasn't ran since 2002 will have make you assume a certain amount of repair or maintance will have to be done to make it roadworthy , gas tank, carbs and brake work to start with, so that has to be figured into its worth if comparing it to other running z prices, a car that runs is huge plus

yeap just saw your profile, its Jeff from Z fest glad to see you made it to the website, check out the pics from the fest , atleast I got some pics of non 350 cars

hey Teddy is that you?

Usually when the brake booster goes the idle raises when you apply the brakes, try it with the car just siting and see ifthe idle goes up also the hard pedal is another sign, there was a htread about testing them I found awhile back, there is away of testing I know. Good luck will send link if I find the thread

Yea a typo there, I have seen that on all the z's that I have removed the lines there were usually clogged anyway. They are very narrow and rust blocks them up. Also most anyone running anything other than a stock air cleaner has to do a bit a plumbing work or remove some of the smog stuff. Me personally I have yet to own a z that the smog worked or was still attached fully. I think if you look through the gallery of motors you will see what I mean .

Has anyone tried using one of these kits and if so was it worth it? I saw a segment of Classic Car restoration where they used one of these kits and a regular home oven and it looked great. Harbor Frieght has a basic unit for $70, and saw some on ebay for about the same. Just thought it would a nice alternative to painting engine bay parts that would fit into the oven. Jeff

I would expect probs when removing these , I had no luck removing any of mine and just replaced it with a header , I would buy a handful of metric bolts and go from there I bet they are 10 or 8 mm , alot of z's that I have seen that are 72 or older with this smog unit bend back the tubes to get away from getting a header and because they have issues removing them as well, I have pics of my 72 without smog stuff , there are overflow hoses on the carbs and the return vent metal lines that must be dealt with when removing the smog stuff, as well as metioned before retuneing the carbs and the vacume for the dizzy, I bought a n36 intake with a euro balance tube from z therapy which eliminated alot of my smog stuff , also you have to decided if you want to remove the carb warm up water feeds, where you live I wouldn't recommend it but its not needed in fla.

I think if you have as most people here do a good selection of manuals , factory haynes and other coverall types of guides you can piece together the proper way, I find that researching tasks on this website as well as any of the regular manuals provides plenty of info , most all info on working on a 240z can be searched in the forums, and the books add a nice pic or diagram, not trying to push you from an answer in reguard to the books but one single one isn't the best other than a full factory manual. But reading about the expierences and errors some members have had when doing tasks is much better , saves time and money most of the time. Most all of the things that can be done to a z can be found here or hybridz, Good Luck

roflol , bought a z on the side of the road, must have been next to the guy selling roses

no a factory service manual will cost you more like 40-75 dollars, but the Haynes style manual should get you through most basic tasks, the factory manuals are a wonderful tool

I believe grayhound will be your cheapest option honestly

Yes a very good point Stephen , I have had that exact thing happen on my 72 the top vent hose has rotted off. But still prepare for the worst.

I have redone two tanks in the last few months so heres the info I can share with you. If the tank is leaking some places can repair them depended on the size of the leak, just to have it cleaned and pressure tested is $120- 200, but that doesn't include labor thats you doing it< removal and reinstall>. Also when removing a tank from a 30+ year old car expect to replace the vapor tanks lines which can cost between $135 -210 in lines again just parts. I also would put a new sending unit in it at the time $25 . Now you might find someone to do the tank repair cheaper like while it is on the car. But I highly recommend doing it right the first time, leaks and fumes are nothing you want to play with. One time bottoming out could ruin you day if you get the righ spark and amount of fumes. Good Luck and hope you get the car. The repair of the tank can be a very good haggling point for the price.